The honeybadger thread is here: diyAB Amp The "Honey Badger" build thread
As it is diy, thermal management is up to the builder. Size of heat sinks, fan or not, fan control or not, up to you. It has enough output transistor soa to sustain the rated wattage at the voltage indicated on the print.
Other tested diy medium wattage amps are in the index of apex amplifiers thread. Look for 3 to 5 output transistor pairs in TO3 or TO247/263 for wattages of 150/channel up.
Personally, I buy blown up PA amps & repair them. Much cheaper way to get all the heat sinks, cases, fans, connectors, AC devices, indicators, knobs, etc etc etc. Craigslist or ebay usually. I picked up a 2 ohm capable PV-1.3k for $55, brought it home on the bus. Took 127 new or salvage parts to repair it, but I learned a lot crawling through it.
BTW while the DC300a was about the best amp for stage use in 1974, it is highly unsuitable for driving speakers in the long run. If a DC set point pot loses connection to the wiper, it will put out hefty currents at a DC voltage and fry speakers. It is an amp designed for driving dc actuators that control diesel motor throttes, hydraulic valves from vickers that control 1000 hp loads, etc etc. A lot of water has gone under the dam since 1974. Amps that shut themselves down if DC voltage comes out the speaker jack for more than 200 ms have been standard for stage bands since the 80's.
As it is diy, thermal management is up to the builder. Size of heat sinks, fan or not, fan control or not, up to you. It has enough output transistor soa to sustain the rated wattage at the voltage indicated on the print.
Other tested diy medium wattage amps are in the index of apex amplifiers thread. Look for 3 to 5 output transistor pairs in TO3 or TO247/263 for wattages of 150/channel up.
Personally, I buy blown up PA amps & repair them. Much cheaper way to get all the heat sinks, cases, fans, connectors, AC devices, indicators, knobs, etc etc etc. Craigslist or ebay usually. I picked up a 2 ohm capable PV-1.3k for $55, brought it home on the bus. Took 127 new or salvage parts to repair it, but I learned a lot crawling through it.
BTW while the DC300a was about the best amp for stage use in 1974, it is highly unsuitable for driving speakers in the long run. If a DC set point pot loses connection to the wiper, it will put out hefty currents at a DC voltage and fry speakers. It is an amp designed for driving dc actuators that control diesel motor throttes, hydraulic valves from vickers that control 1000 hp loads, etc etc. A lot of water has gone under the dam since 1974. Amps that shut themselves down if DC voltage comes out the speaker jack for more than 200 ms have been standard for stage bands since the 80's.
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