Yeah, that's what I have in mind. The dedicated circuit - again to be crystal clear... all work breaker box to outlet will be done by a licensed professional with a permit - will be 20A and 12AWG. What I'm gonna build is a portable distribution panel, distribution box, power strip, etc. etc.
Then I can have the portable piece - whatever we want to call it - modified easily.
Are you going to have a 120/240 volt outlet installed? That'll work fine and you can build a heavy duty 120 volt power strip with it, but it might be overkill. It'll cost a lot more too. Plus, a realtor, appraiser, or buyer might frown on it in the future.
You could have the contractor just put two duplex outlets in one box, with each being fed by a 20 amp breaker. That's still the same amount of power. They'll still share a neutral though, unless you have the contractor pull 2 neutrals from the service box.
You could have the contractor just put two duplex outlets in one box, with each being fed by a 20 amp breaker. That's still the same amount of power. They'll still share a neutral though, unless you have the contractor pull 2 neutrals from the service box.
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Check ebay for empty custom boxes with cutout covers. I think you will find several Chinese sellers offering attractive multi outlet boxes.
This thread should be deleted before someone dies of electrocution or burns their house down, this is borderline stupidity.
I've been fabricating my own power distribution boards for a while now. I found inexpensive bamboo cutlery drawer organisers that I used for the enclosures. I had some sheets of carbon fibre left over from my drone building antics and sourced some sockets designed for camper trailers that utilise a cover. I like the idea of preventing unused receptacles from filling with dust. Like you, I did not want any additional filtering, just good quality mains copper cable.
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Lowpoke, what you have built is not permitted under australian electrical standards, you are just encouraging people to build dangerous mains powered electrical distribution devices.
Fast Eddie D, are you actually an electrician? I know home wiring a bit, the CEC and NEC a bit, and I know electrical wiring is localized to a certain degree in NA, but your repeated referrals to shared neutral don't agree with ANYTHING I have seen.
You are saying that if you told an electrician to run 2 20A circuits to a single box, he would run a 12-3 and share the neutrals? Never seen that here in all the houses I have owned built since the 60's onward and any electrician I have ever dealt with.
You are saying that if you told an electrician to run 2 20A circuits to a single box, he would run a 12-3 and share the neutrals? Never seen that here in all the houses I have owned built since the 60's onward and any electrician I have ever dealt with.
Can you back this up? I doubt very much the Aus electrical code covers devices not permanently connected to the mains.
Under Australian electrical standards all electrical work, devices including powerboards and extension cables are subject to regulation. The electrician bible is the australian standard AS3000 and anything its referenced to.
What Lowpoke built is not permitted under any circumstances.
Hence why the thread should be deleted.
What Lowpoke built is not permitted under any circumstances.
Hence why the thread should be deleted.
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A citation would be appreciated.
The OP is in the US and discussing what is perfectly legal and safe there. HTF does Australia matter?
Indiglo please provide a citation. As has been pointed out I don’t live in your country. But since you’ve make the assertion please back it up with specifics. If you provide a definitive citation then others should accept it. If you can’t or don’t others should ignore you. It’s really that simple. Please provide a citation.
Electrical regulations in australia are covered by multiple standards, which are available for purchase from standards australia, I'm not going to spend hundreds of dollars or peruse hundreds of pages of documents to provide a citation that is commonly accepted legal practice here in australia.
Its an international forum, so the lowest common denominator should be that these types of activities should not be permitted in the forum due to the risk of electrocution, this is just common sense. Australian based and hosted forums won't permit these types of discussions for this very reason.
What is concerning is the OP has already stated he/she have professionals guiding them, if that is the case what is the point of all the questions, surely they would be providing the appropriate electrical advice which would negate the OP posting here in the first place.
Still unbelievable the thread hasn't been deleted.
Its an international forum, so the lowest common denominator should be that these types of activities should not be permitted in the forum due to the risk of electrocution, this is just common sense. Australian based and hosted forums won't permit these types of discussions for this very reason.
What is concerning is the OP has already stated he/she have professionals guiding them, if that is the case what is the point of all the questions, surely they would be providing the appropriate electrical advice which would negate the OP posting here in the first place.
Still unbelievable the thread hasn't been deleted.
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Indiglo you haven’t provided a citation. If you knew for sure that it was there you could point to it. I work in politics. If I know something about the law where I live I can point to it without much hassle at all. And if I can’t? Well I wouldn’t make the assertion in the first place.
Instead we have your “perspective” which is that you have a belief that there is a law in your country that backs you up but can’t point it AND a belief that the laws in your country should apply elsewhere as “the lowest common denominator.” Which is not just illogical but absurd.
The common denominator is common sense and caution. And you do not own that definition. Nor do you have a command of the facts in this situation. And certainly not the laws in my country.
Produce the citation.
Instead we have your “perspective” which is that you have a belief that there is a law in your country that backs you up but can’t point it AND a belief that the laws in your country should apply elsewhere as “the lowest common denominator.” Which is not just illogical but absurd.
The common denominator is common sense and caution. And you do not own that definition. Nor do you have a command of the facts in this situation. And certainly not the laws in my country.
Produce the citation.
And you think this thread should be banned? Maybe you should be banned from posting on this thread.
Produce the citation.
Produce the citation.
I have already provided the legal minimum reference for electrical work in australia (AS3000), then there are other australian standards that regulate devices like powerboards, extension cables, powerpoints and also the humble IEC lead. AS/NZS3112 governs the standards for mains plugs and sockets.
This is not a belief system or a perspective, but referenced legal documents for which electrical work can be carried out in australia.
I guess in your part of the world ignorance is bliss.
Why would I be banned for pointing out the risks of electrocution. You are displaying impressive levels of stupidity.
This is not a belief system or a perspective, but referenced legal documents for which electrical work can be carried out in australia.
I guess in your part of the world ignorance is bliss.
Why would I be banned for pointing out the risks of electrocution. You are displaying impressive levels of stupidity.
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You haven’t provided a reference. Just a source. It’s like saying “it’s in the law.” Yeah that’s not how it works.
Produce the citation or stop making the claim.
Produce the citation or stop making the claim.
I already provided two examples of legal documents in australia that covers electrical regulations and standards, there are probably dozens more. I shouldn't have to point this out. Its obvious you don't understand legal frameworks.
This thread may continue according to the rules (below, please familiarise yourself with them), barring a future determination by the Moderation Team, or a new development in the thread.Downupside, your acceptance of this position has been noted.
The normal practice in many institutions in the U.S. Is to require compliance with standards set by an organization such as Underwritters Lab. Their rules require the use of a "listed" device when one exists. When one does not you may assemble it from "listed" components. "Listed" means that the device has been inspected by the certifying agency is built by approved means. For example if the device uses crimp terminals, then the crimper must be designed and certified to crimp those specific terminals.
In home use UL or similar listing is usually not required. However if you are buying off the shelf electrical parts from a reliable source the parts will comply with the existing codes.
Buying from an offshore internet supplier most likely will not yield parts that meet those requirements.
So building a power distribution strip in a cardboard box may actually be legal in some locations as the electrical code is governed by the state and it in theory is possible some state might allow that. In practice virtually every place in the U.S. has adopted some version of the National Electrical Code which is written by an independent body originally organized by insurance folks. It is called the National Fire Protection Agency.
In short it is usually legal to build for your own use an extension cord with multiple switched outlets from listed or rated components.
Of course there are bits of code to follow. Green wires are used for the safety third wire which in a properly wired house should be isolated from the other wiring until it is connected to the actual ground at the building's service entrance. White is used for the neutral properly called the grounded conductor. It is also grounded at the building entrance only and also is connected to the incoming power mains. Black or other colored wire is used for the "hot" conductor. It is not connected to earth ground. Normal practice for residences is to bring in two hot leads that have typically 240 volts between them. By using one hot and the neutral (grounded conductor) you can get 120 volt AC outlets. The danger is that as the hot lead is actually referenced to the neutral which is grounded, you can get shocked by just touching the hot lead as it is most likely you are not floating in the air and are connected to the earth by some conductive path.
The two main dangers are allowing the hot lead to come into contact with pretty much any unintended person, animal or object. The second issue is a fire hazard. In normal designs an insulation failure allowing the hot lead to connect to either the neutral or safety ground conductor should trip the outlet current limiting protection method. The danger is if the connecting or shorting path is of such resistance that it heats up but does not draw enough current to trip the current limiting protection device. Under the current code smart circuit breakers should prevent many of the common faults. A Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter will detect if the current from the hot lead is not the same as returned in the neutral, meaning there is an unintended leakage path, tripping off the power. The newer version is an Arc Interrupting type. This looks at the current draw for high frequency noise indicating a poor connection most likely to heat up things and under those conditions trips. These breakers will protect from problems such as the outlet connection screw is not properly tightened!
Then there is the non code issue. You really should have smoke detectors! If you heat with a combustion source then a carbon monoxide detector is a really good idea.
Repeating the prior caution do not test for power with your tongue! 😉
In home use UL or similar listing is usually not required. However if you are buying off the shelf electrical parts from a reliable source the parts will comply with the existing codes.
Buying from an offshore internet supplier most likely will not yield parts that meet those requirements.
So building a power distribution strip in a cardboard box may actually be legal in some locations as the electrical code is governed by the state and it in theory is possible some state might allow that. In practice virtually every place in the U.S. has adopted some version of the National Electrical Code which is written by an independent body originally organized by insurance folks. It is called the National Fire Protection Agency.
In short it is usually legal to build for your own use an extension cord with multiple switched outlets from listed or rated components.
Of course there are bits of code to follow. Green wires are used for the safety third wire which in a properly wired house should be isolated from the other wiring until it is connected to the actual ground at the building's service entrance. White is used for the neutral properly called the grounded conductor. It is also grounded at the building entrance only and also is connected to the incoming power mains. Black or other colored wire is used for the "hot" conductor. It is not connected to earth ground. Normal practice for residences is to bring in two hot leads that have typically 240 volts between them. By using one hot and the neutral (grounded conductor) you can get 120 volt AC outlets. The danger is that as the hot lead is actually referenced to the neutral which is grounded, you can get shocked by just touching the hot lead as it is most likely you are not floating in the air and are connected to the earth by some conductive path.
The two main dangers are allowing the hot lead to come into contact with pretty much any unintended person, animal or object. The second issue is a fire hazard. In normal designs an insulation failure allowing the hot lead to connect to either the neutral or safety ground conductor should trip the outlet current limiting protection method. The danger is if the connecting or shorting path is of such resistance that it heats up but does not draw enough current to trip the current limiting protection device. Under the current code smart circuit breakers should prevent many of the common faults. A Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter will detect if the current from the hot lead is not the same as returned in the neutral, meaning there is an unintended leakage path, tripping off the power. The newer version is an Arc Interrupting type. This looks at the current draw for high frequency noise indicating a poor connection most likely to heat up things and under those conditions trips. These breakers will protect from problems such as the outlet connection screw is not properly tightened!
Then there is the non code issue. You really should have smoke detectors! If you heat with a combustion source then a carbon monoxide detector is a really good idea.
Repeating the prior caution do not test for power with your tongue! 😉
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