Cutting IEC Socket in Chassis

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#2
reaper996 said:
What is the best way to cut out the IEC socket in the back of the amp chassis?
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I assume you mean the hole for an IEC receptacle -- With a nibbler and a round file. Of course, you could get the appropriate punch from Greenlee but it's around $400.

Before you start, make sure you have the back-clearance to mount the IEC receptacle.
 
#5
To make a template for the hole I used a knife to cut slits in a piece of cardboard to pass the terminals of the connector. I then pushed the connector terminals through the slits and traced around the body of the connector with a sharp pencil. I then removed the connector and used a sharp knife to cut out the outline of the connector, cutting inside the lines to under size the hole. I then compared the cutout with the connector body by pushing the connector though the cardboard. Satisfied that the hole was close to real size I used the template to draw the required hole on the back panel. Then drilled several holes inside the outline big enough to pass the bit of the nibbler. I got the nibbler close to the outline, and cleaned up the hole with various sized files. Final step is to insert the connector, use a nail to scratch trough the mounting holes to mark drill holes for the screws on the panel and drill them.
 
#6
Is it a steel chassis or an aluminum one? I've had good results with drilling a hole in each corner of the outline and then using a jigsaw with a metal blade to cut between the holes (keep your fingers well out of the way though). Saves a heap on filing. It's MUCH easier with aluminum.

col.
 
#8
col said:
Is it a steel chassis or an aluminum one? I've had good results with drilling a hole in each corner of the outline and then using a jigsaw with a metal blade to cut between the holes (keep your fingers well out of the way though). Saves a heap on filing. It's MUCH easier with aluminum.

col.
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My back panel was aluminum (about 1/16" thick). You can also use a scroll saw with a suitable blade (most blades will cut aluminum or copper, spiral blades might be the best). You'll have to drill a hole and insert the blade through the hole, then mount it in the saw. a bit tricky, but most scroll saw users have been there, done that before.
 
#9
col said:
Is it a steel chassis or an aluminum one? I've had good results with drilling a hole in each corner of the outline and then using a jigsaw with a metal blade to cut between the holes (keep your fingers well out of the way though). Saves a heap on filing. It's MUCH easier with aluminum.

col.
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This is what I've done, but with a junior hacksaw! Of course, it won't reach a lot of the cutting area because of the frame, so a lot of filing is needed. This was on 4mm aluminium on 3 occasions 🙂
 
#11
theAnonymous1 said:
A drill, a file, a dremel tool, and a bottle of whiskey. :dead:

Maybe the whiskey should come first.
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Agreed. Measure it .. about three times. Then get a glass of whiskey and measure it once again .... for good measure 😛

Do note that a sip of whiskey may help for a steady hand, but a few too much may help for stitches in the local emergency ward.

Drill 4 holes carefully in the exact corners of the opening. The IEC sockets are usually square, having the corners already drilled helps with not dremelling too far by accident.

Get the metal cutter disk on the dremmel and start the process. Be careful, take it slow. Those disks are very easy to snap. For the love of eveything that is sacred, do use protective glasses. You will, sooner or later, break one of them, especially if the metal is not too thin. They explode in spectacular fashion and fly everywhere at pretty admirable speeds.

Also - do not that the bloody thing will get hot, which can be an annoyance when you're cutting aluminium.

Once you're done, use a file to smoothen the lines and make everything wide enough for the component to fit. Snap it in and use some hot silicon glue on the inside for good measure.
 
#12
freehand

I do it freehand with a dremel using a standard cutting disk. I have a set of micrometers to measure every once in a while.

If you go slowly and don't get carried away it will may work out.

I admit that sometimes they didn't come out perfect!
 
#14
Atilla said:
...Get the metal cutter disk on the dremmel and start the process. Be careful, take it slow. Those disks are very easy to snap. For the love of eveything that is sacred, do use protective glasses. You will, sooner or later, break one of them, especially if the metal is not too thin. They explode in spectacular fashion and fly everywhere at pretty admirable speeds...
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Use the fibre-glass reinforced ones. They are slightly less efficient at cutting, but I don't remember ever having broken one. Eye protection is still required of course.

It's quite possible to cut perfect holes with a cutting disc, with enough practice.
 
#15
Hmmm, I didn't see those in my store. Those were the type I was looking for, since that's what big metal-cutting devices use. I didn't find them so I assumed they didn't make them for the dremmel.

Other than that - results are usually great. I've had to cut a bajilion holes in wood and steel and aluminum the last few months ( god, casework is so demanding) and nothing has ever turned out better than the square IEC socket holes from the dremmel. It's actually a little spooky how good they got.
 
#17
Yeah, you see, wood can be trickier to work with sometimes. Although some mistakes can be fixed quite easy.

Also - the blasted thing burns if not treated with anything and DIY-product fire-hazard material is ... well .. You've got to be careful. Aesthetics are fine but do take care of the construction and make sure you insulate everything. What if the wood gets wet for some reason and becomes conductive?

You also can't earth it so you sacrifice some of the metal chassis benefits.
 
#20
I did it the easy way.

I found a local sheet metal shop with the correct punch and persuaded them to do it for a "drink".

I have now invested in an oblong punch (off EBAY) which does the job in 4 cuts and a bit of filing.


Andy.

.
 
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