Driver board is from a Sundown SAZ 3000. Board is a DWM 3640. There are 2 21844 IC's on it that I am replacing (driver IC's) and I pulled a few pads removing one of the chips. This is the second time Ive replaced these, the first time I pulled a single pad, this time 2 more lifted.
I got lucky last time and the pad wasnt being used. Are any of these 3 pads being used? Heres the best picture I could get.
Click to enlarge. Am I screwed? Do I need to find another driver board?
I got lucky last time and the pad wasnt being used. Are any of these 3 pads being used? Heres the best picture I could get.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Click to enlarge. Am I screwed? Do I need to find another driver board?
If Im viewing the datasheet right, pads 8,9,10 and 14 are unused. Looks like I lifted pads 8/9/10.
Am I good to go? Gotta be more careful replacing these
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Am I good to go? Gotta be more careful replacing these
If they are not used your probably OK. Get your self some chip quik, it works awesome for removing IC's and op-amps. You will never tear off or lift another pad again.
Seankane is right about chip-quik, but you could also try to get a Hakko or Atten 850 or similar hot air reflow wand and do the job the way it was intended to be done using the correct tool to begin with. If your gonna work on SMD then get the tool and some tweezers so you don't burn yourself.
All I do is fire up the reflow wand, grab a set of tweezers or hemo-stats and lift the device after I see the solder wet up from reflow VIOLA ! 3 or 4 seconds and your done and the board is intact and undamaged. Just reverse the operation to install the new device. Soldering irons were never designed to handle SMD components and your really risking damage by not using the correct tool to begin with. I have had one on my bench for over 8 years now, and I can't remember how I got by without it now. It even lets me resolder those Weco power and speaker pins from PPI, Orion, ADS, and other makers in nothing flat. fastest soldering and de-solder removal I know of...Buy the tool...Best money I ever spent next to my Metcal gear...hope this helps some😉
PS you don't have to buy the most expensive thing you find, even the cheap ones work great after you learn how to use them properly I.E. practice till you stop burning up the PC Board, then your getting there...🙂
All I do is fire up the reflow wand, grab a set of tweezers or hemo-stats and lift the device after I see the solder wet up from reflow VIOLA ! 3 or 4 seconds and your done and the board is intact and undamaged. Just reverse the operation to install the new device. Soldering irons were never designed to handle SMD components and your really risking damage by not using the correct tool to begin with. I have had one on my bench for over 8 years now, and I can't remember how I got by without it now. It even lets me resolder those Weco power and speaker pins from PPI, Orion, ADS, and other makers in nothing flat. fastest soldering and de-solder removal I know of...Buy the tool...Best money I ever spent next to my Metcal gear...hope this helps some😉
PS you don't have to buy the most expensive thing you find, even the cheap ones work great after you learn how to use them properly I.E. practice till you stop burning up the PC Board, then your getting there...🙂
I had to do another one of these same driver boards as well as the other IC on the board I already screwed up.. so I had 3 ICs to pull off.
I went and bought a new soldering iron tip to replace my thing thats now the size of a pencil eraser. Its SHOT. What a world of difference! I made 2 big blobs of solder on each side of the IC, and heated them up as quickly and evenly as possible (switching back and forth from side to side) and then the IC just floated away.
I went and bought a new soldering iron tip to replace my thing thats now the size of a pencil eraser. Its SHOT. What a world of difference! I made 2 big blobs of solder on each side of the IC, and heated them up as quickly and evenly as possible (switching back and forth from side to side) and then the IC just floated away.
On expensive boards where I can't afford errors I use a razor blade to cut the pins from the IC. Add some solder and the vacuum the pins off with an Edsyn Soldapullt. Clean off the flux residue, install the new chip and clean it again. An Ungar hot air gun can also remove the chip and even re-use it if needed.
A controlled heat soldering iron is a must. Yours does not seem suitable.
Even if you lifted an active pad you could due 'micro surgery' to reconnect the leads which I've also had to do - usually cleaning up someone else's repair attempt.
It helps a lot to have something like an Opti-Visor so you can really see.
G²
A controlled heat soldering iron is a must. Yours does not seem suitable.
Even if you lifted an active pad you could due 'micro surgery' to reconnect the leads which I've also had to do - usually cleaning up someone else's repair attempt.
It helps a lot to have something like an Opti-Visor so you can really see.
G²
The pads were unused, so the heat had nowhere to go and was confined to the pad. They can be surprisingly easy to lift sometimes; if replacing the chip it's best to just cut the leads as described above.
I also cut pins on standard DIP packages, but not SMD. The pin spacing on most SMD devices are too close to allow for cutters to get in without risking damage of some kind. The razor blade idea sounds usable as long as you don't slip and cut something else.
The hot air wand solves all of those issues and they are as cheap to buy as a typical temp controlled solder station < ~$79.00 new on ebay >. And your thread post would never have been here for all of us give advice on.
I just got some repair work done on my truck. I was going to do it myself but the job called for a lift to be used to be able to reach underneath it properly to complete the work. After doing a little research I found that it also required several factory designed specialty tools just to complete the job properly, and quickly.
After asking 6 self proclaimed and in business "mechanics" if they had the tools I found none of them had the tools. < bear in mind this is a 13 year old American made GM truck, and after it being 13 years old you would figure any mechanic would have the tools by now since it not new > I had to ask them how they did their work correctly.
Long story short I spent the ~ $100.00 in special tools < some I fashioned out of rod stock and simple bolts and off the shelf bearings >, and I found a mechanic that would allow me to help so I could verify proper procedures, and my truck had its crankshaft mounted oil pump replaced properly in a day even with the mechanic answering the phone all day and dealing with walk in customers. There were no broken or damaged parts, and nothing wasted as the special tools I supplied were all needed and used and the job could not have been completed properly and quickly without them. And the tools cost will be cut again when I assemble my new engine for my truck at my home. So the tools were not a one time charlie, plus the mechanic now rents them from me after seeing how useful they were. He even said he learned a few thing from me and my job. Dang I knew that 4 year degree and state certified mechanic license would pay off some day lol...
While my work was being done one of his fellow mechanics replacing a timing chain < very similar tear down and put back > and not using the factory tools damaged the threads on the crankshaft, destroyed the dampener bolt. luckily I had a spare $30.00 ARP replacement bolt he could use after he thread chased the crankshaft snout to repair the damaged threads the non factory puller caused. This damage cause ~ $50.00+ add-on to the customers bill, along with a hour and half delay. DUH !!!
Our job was finished in half the time, and had no damaged parts or rework required. My point about all this is,,,, Get the right tools and do the job right. Its faster, and cheaper and your rework will be reduced to zero in most cases.
I'm just saying bit the bullet and tool yourself up correctly. After you do down the road you might look back and think kindly of me. 😉
The hot air wand solves all of those issues and they are as cheap to buy as a typical temp controlled solder station < ~$79.00 new on ebay >. And your thread post would never have been here for all of us give advice on.
I just got some repair work done on my truck. I was going to do it myself but the job called for a lift to be used to be able to reach underneath it properly to complete the work. After doing a little research I found that it also required several factory designed specialty tools just to complete the job properly, and quickly.
After asking 6 self proclaimed and in business "mechanics" if they had the tools I found none of them had the tools. < bear in mind this is a 13 year old American made GM truck, and after it being 13 years old you would figure any mechanic would have the tools by now since it not new > I had to ask them how they did their work correctly.
Long story short I spent the ~ $100.00 in special tools < some I fashioned out of rod stock and simple bolts and off the shelf bearings >, and I found a mechanic that would allow me to help so I could verify proper procedures, and my truck had its crankshaft mounted oil pump replaced properly in a day even with the mechanic answering the phone all day and dealing with walk in customers. There were no broken or damaged parts, and nothing wasted as the special tools I supplied were all needed and used and the job could not have been completed properly and quickly without them. And the tools cost will be cut again when I assemble my new engine for my truck at my home. So the tools were not a one time charlie, plus the mechanic now rents them from me after seeing how useful they were. He even said he learned a few thing from me and my job. Dang I knew that 4 year degree and state certified mechanic license would pay off some day lol...
While my work was being done one of his fellow mechanics replacing a timing chain < very similar tear down and put back > and not using the factory tools damaged the threads on the crankshaft, destroyed the dampener bolt. luckily I had a spare $30.00 ARP replacement bolt he could use after he thread chased the crankshaft snout to repair the damaged threads the non factory puller caused. This damage cause ~ $50.00+ add-on to the customers bill, along with a hour and half delay. DUH !!!
Our job was finished in half the time, and had no damaged parts or rework required. My point about all this is,,,, Get the right tools and do the job right. Its faster, and cheaper and your rework will be reduced to zero in most cases.
I'm just saying bit the bullet and tool yourself up correctly. After you do down the road you might look back and think kindly of me. 😉
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