Dartzeel amp schematic - build this?

Yeah, you might be right. Altough I read all reviews I could find about the original, and this is from 6moons: "The bass is killer - powerful, fast and precise."

Please note that my pcb is not that "1:1" clone board either, don't know is there how much difference in sound? Theres integrated speaker prot for example. Another thing to consider is that im using this with 96db/w sensitive speakers, does it "open up" when cranking more power out? Plus my rails are little lowish, 42,4v. Anyways, its in my system now and going to listen it for a while.
To get to tighter bass, you need oodles of low esr capacitance
 
Calculate as such: I(led) = (Vin-Vled) / (Rled). You want "I(led)" to be less than the specified current (If) of the manufacturer. Vled is the forward voltage of the LED, and Vin is the applied voltage. Yes, newer LEDs are more efficient, they have a higher luminosity rating with the same current, so in many cases you can use a much higher dropping resistor and get good brightness, and longer LED life.
 
Hi ! analog sa I changed the Zeners to 6.2 v. Maybe I should try 5.6 instead. I will measure voltage drop over R 19 and 20 later today. Rail voltage is 55 vdc
Reviving this old old comment. I received a severely underbiased sample of this amp and tried to use a 6.2V zener but got the inverse of the results (ie a set of 4735 diodes actually made the output stage lower in bias but a 4730 got the amp to run marginally hotter. R19/20 gets me 5.XV with a 6.2V zener 4.XV with a 5.1 and only 2.XV with a 4730. The lower the voltage across the 39Ohm the hotter the output stage gets (!) I am curious if anyone has adjusted the base resistor R22 (20Ohm) to the driver to a higher or lower value to get to desired bias points.
 
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I got one of these and it’s performing really well. I just think it is a little harsh sounding in the midrange, probably a little scooped around 1Khz. Female vocals and saxophones on some recordings can be fatiguing. Any ideas to remedy this?
I’ve already swapped the caps in the power section with Mundorf MLytic 10.000uF and replaced all connectors with better gold plated copper ones, all with good results.
I got 2 units that measure very differently until I tweaked one of them. The harsh and bass shy one was severely underbiased. Does your unit run hot or cold to the touch?