Having all the heads stuck one next to the others doesn't help, that's for sure. I guess doing an elliptical movement around the head lot, moving away and disconnecting it would work. The most important actually is to disconnect it far from the unit and making sure you make no staggering movements. Otherwise, if you can get your hands on a variac, you could slowly reduce the voltage of the Han-D-Mag until you reach 0v and disconnect it. This method is safer.
I'm gonna be doing this tomorrow, i'll do what you suggest.
I have made a current reducer with a house dimmer, one side has a male plug, and the other female, just like the two ends of an extension cord. i made this to reduce the speed of a grinder that has a sticky pad on it for 6" sticky automotive sand paper, can't set it too low for fear of spotting the rotor, but it saves a lot on the air compressor power consumption as it is cheaper to run, takes the rpm from 10,000 down to 4,000 easy . Oops
i'm derailing lol
Do you figure i could use that dimmer to reduce the power of the D-mag?
tks.
I have made a current reducer with a house dimmer, one side has a male plug, and the other female, just like the two ends of an extension cord. i made this to reduce the speed of a grinder that has a sticky pad on it for 6" sticky automotive sand paper, can't set it too low for fear of spotting the rotor, but it saves a lot on the air compressor power consumption as it is cheaper to run, takes the rpm from 10,000 down to 4,000 easy . Oops
i'm derailing lolDo you figure i could use that dimmer to reduce the power of the D-mag?
tks.
Is it the standard round knob dimer or a sliding one?
Round ones aren't supposed to drive motors or transformers, as they modify the waveshape rather than really lowering the voltage.
But if it works on a compressor already, the Han-D-Mag should work well.
Round ones aren't supposed to drive motors or transformers, as they modify the waveshape rather than really lowering the voltage.
But if it works on a compressor already, the Han-D-Mag should work well.
Hi Antoine, It is the round dimmer type. I used it on a hand grinder and it works well (not set lower than 3/4 down) It also loses it's torque when lowered, so i got to find the sweet rpm spot relative to how much pressure applied to the surface with it.
Thanks for the info about the round dimmer versus the slider types.
I'll post my new result later late tonite, if i can
Thanks for the info about the round dimmer versus the slider types.
I'll post my new result later late tonite, if i can
I'm back.. I finnaly got it done last nite on my two space echos..
Started with the Re-301.. made an elliptique movement and did only one fly in and one fly out, very slowly, and unplugged from about 10 feet from the heads. i dropped a new tape in and it's sounds like new again :O) full rich echos the way it sould be. My other one, an Re-201 I did the same to it and it is also perfectomondo :OP
Thanks a lot for your good tips and info 😀
J.
Started with the Re-301.. made an elliptique movement and did only one fly in and one fly out, very slowly, and unplugged from about 10 feet from the heads. i dropped a new tape in and it's sounds like new again :O) full rich echos the way it sould be. My other one, an Re-201 I did the same to it and it is also perfectomondo :OP
Thanks a lot for your good tips and info 😀
J.
Please don't take this personally, but your 'adventure' highlights how important it is to know what you're doing (and preferably why you're doing it) before doing any maintenance on equipment - especially gear that's important to you!
Yes, This gear is highly important to me, hence the reason why i wanted to get this demag done on the units. I understand that it is important to know what you're doing when doing any maintenance, but i'd rather crash and learn than take anything to someone else, pay cash and learn nothing.
I'm a strong beleiver in learning from my mistakes. (story of my life really! lol)
so tell me something i donno!
How's the weather in the UK? 😀
I'm a strong beleiver in learning from my mistakes. (story of my life really! lol)
so tell me something i donno!
How's the weather in the UK? 😀
I missed your new replies, I didn't receive any notification... Good to know it's working back again!
Demagnetizing and a new tape loop must have made quite a good difference to the sound!
Demagnetizing and a new tape loop must have made quite a good difference to the sound!
Hello DragonMaster, Yes the sound is... Fuller, i guess is the word, it sounds great now. good definition in echos.
I also done my Re-201, which is now for sale on ebay.
I'm keeping the Re-301 😀
But the 201 is really nice too 🙂
I also done my Re-201, which is now for sale on ebay.
I'm keeping the Re-301 😀
But the 201 is really nice too 🙂
DIY demagnetiser
I just built a demagnetizer. I put 30 windings of insulated copper (aprox. AWG18) around the tip of a 4 inch nail, and connected it directly to a 24V/25W transformer. It works for a short time, until the transformer starts to smoke, the I turn it of.
Any idea of what I might be missing?
Or am I using an inadequate power source?
I just built a demagnetizer. I put 30 windings of insulated copper (aprox. AWG18) around the tip of a 4 inch nail, and connected it directly to a 24V/25W transformer. It works for a short time, until the transformer starts to smoke, the I turn it of.
Any idea of what I might be missing?
Or am I using an inadequate power source?
I just replaced the power supply with a 12VAC 12.5W transformer. I havn't tried this configuration for a prolonged time yet, but aparently it seems to work better that the 24VAC 25W version (lasts longer until the transformer starts to smoke). Also, the magnetic field power seems to be almost the same.
You need much higher impedance to keep the transformer from smoking. Higher impedance = higher inductance = higher number of turns. But then the magnetic field incerases and the nail saturates -> the inductance drops -> tranny smokes again. To prevent saturation, increase the cross section of the iron core. Try a bigger screw for the core, not a nail.
Conclusion: buy a commercial demagnetizer 😉
Conclusion: buy a commercial demagnetizer 😉
Roland Space Echo RE-201 troubleshooting
Hello everyone.
I finally found someone with a demagetizer. An apparatus like something for iron your pants (literally).
"If this thing don't demagnetize you Space Echo, nothing will", said the owner.
I guess it did, but the echo sounds just as weak as before (for comparism, the reverb does sound great).
- Any Idea what else could be the problem?
- Maybe a new tape (3-4 meter long)?
- What is the purpose of the potenciometer that is hidden in the back of the Space Echo?
- Does anybody know where to get a service / user manual for this Roland RE-201 unit?
A lot of questions, but I want to solve this matter for good.
Phantombox.
Hello everyone.
I finally found someone with a demagetizer. An apparatus like something for iron your pants (literally).
"If this thing don't demagnetize you Space Echo, nothing will", said the owner.
I guess it did, but the echo sounds just as weak as before (for comparism, the reverb does sound great).
- Any Idea what else could be the problem?
- Maybe a new tape (3-4 meter long)?
- What is the purpose of the potenciometer that is hidden in the back of the Space Echo?
- Does anybody know where to get a service / user manual for this Roland RE-201 unit?
A lot of questions, but I want to solve this matter for good.
Phantombox.
Did you properly demagnetize the heads? (As I described in a previous post)
Service manual?
http://www.google.com/search?q=ROLAND+RE-201+service+manual
First result.
It's possible, you could try demagnetizing the tape as well. Usually, you'd take a bulk tape demagnetizer for this. If a tape isn't physically worn, a bulk demagnetizer can extend it's life greatly. It will bring it back to it's original performance.
Service manual?
http://www.google.com/search?q=ROLAND+RE-201+service+manual
First result.
When i first tried the demagnatizinaling, i had no echo left what soever!!! I had used the big (and brand new) Han-D-Mag. What i had done wrong was to unplug the dmag too close to the heads!
I have then done it once more using the tips and technique forementioned here, which is, start to demag doing slow optical motions near the heads (not repeated for each head but rather once only circuling all the heads) and pull away slowly doing that motion, until you are aty least 10 feet away before unluging your Dmagger. So.. if your Dmag has a 5 foot cord, set your echo 5 feet away from the wall outlet, and you should get your 10 feet when ready to unplug it. (just ask a friend to unplug the thing.)
Once i have done that, the echo came back beautifffuly.
I did my Re-301, and also the Re-201 (now sold).
Good Luck eh!
Johnny.
I have then done it once more using the tips and technique forementioned here, which is, start to demag doing slow optical motions near the heads (not repeated for each head but rather once only circuling all the heads) and pull away slowly doing that motion, until you are aty least 10 feet away before unluging your Dmagger. So.. if your Dmag has a 5 foot cord, set your echo 5 feet away from the wall outlet, and you should get your 10 feet when ready to unplug it. (just ask a friend to unplug the thing.)
Once i have done that, the echo came back beautifffuly.
I did my Re-301, and also the Re-201 (now sold).
Good Luck eh!
Johnny.
Well...
Yesterday I noticed that the selector switch worked in some positions, in others not, so I applied contact cleaner / lubricant (a specialized spray) on it to get it working clean again. It does now but with no echo signal at all, not even a weak one.
Today I went again to the guy with the demagnetizer and used it myself, following the suggested steps (slow circling motion, one turn, mooving away from the RE201 up to 10 feet and then turning the demagnetizer off).
Still no sgnal.
I downloaded the service manual that DragonMaster suggested (barely readable, but thank you, DragonMaster).
But before I mess around with this old pacient I wanted to ask if someone had the same problem with the RE-201 and could give me a hint what might have happened?
PhantomBox
Yesterday I noticed that the selector switch worked in some positions, in others not, so I applied contact cleaner / lubricant (a specialized spray) on it to get it working clean again. It does now but with no echo signal at all, not even a weak one.
Today I went again to the guy with the demagnetizer and used it myself, following the suggested steps (slow circling motion, one turn, mooving away from the RE201 up to 10 feet and then turning the demagnetizer off).
Still no sgnal.
I downloaded the service manual that DragonMaster suggested (barely readable, but thank you, DragonMaster).
But before I mess around with this old pacient I wanted to ask if someone had the same problem with the RE-201 and could give me a hint what might have happened?
PhantomBox
I don't know why so many complications for this simple work?
Everybody have a Gun for soldering!!!
So just put a long copper wire to the gun before formed shape according to space you have in the deck and do the same instructions :turn on than go to the head or aroud head and get back about half meter and turn it off and all job is done.
If you don't believe it just try it:
take some steel screwdriver or something made of steel and get magnetized with permanent magnet, and this will stay magnetised.
Than put this screwdriver inside the wire of the soldering gun put in and out two or three times and you will be totally de-Magnetized .
This was mentioned before me , but I did this way 20 years back and works.
I read in some electronic magazine that the best freqyency for the mde magnetizing a head is no 50Hz, but higher 1khz or more I am not sure and remember the frequency, if this is true than all this examples will not be fully O.k., but for me the soldering gun do the job great.
Everybody have a Gun for soldering!!!
So just put a long copper wire to the gun before formed shape according to space you have in the deck and do the same instructions :turn on than go to the head or aroud head and get back about half meter and turn it off and all job is done.
If you don't believe it just try it:
take some steel screwdriver or something made of steel and get magnetized with permanent magnet, and this will stay magnetised.
Than put this screwdriver inside the wire of the soldering gun put in and out two or three times and you will be totally de-Magnetized .
This was mentioned before me , but I did this way 20 years back and works.
I read in some electronic magazine that the best freqyency for the mde magnetizing a head is no 50Hz, but higher 1khz or more I am not sure and remember the frequency, if this is true than all this examples will not be fully O.k., but for me the soldering gun do the job great.
PhantomBox, are you using a brand new tape? and was the tape in the unit when you dmagged?
When a dmag don't work, you could have maged it instead. I had the same thing happen to me after my first dmag. d.e.d dead.
Just repeat the process and then install a fresh tape loop in it.
Make sure before all, that you have cleaned all your heads, guides and felts with head cleaner and a q-tip (noting sharp or of metal) and also lift the round rubber cap ontop the pinch roller, undo the screw lift of the roller and clean it's post and interior roller bushing. Don't use head cleaner on the roller rubber and Do not oil Anything on this whole machine. contact cleaner for pots and selector is ok.
If you need a tape, e-mail me to rockabillyrocks@hotmail.com and i'll hook you up.
GL.
Johnny.
When a dmag don't work, you could have maged it instead. I had the same thing happen to me after my first dmag. d.e.d dead.
Just repeat the process and then install a fresh tape loop in it.
Make sure before all, that you have cleaned all your heads, guides and felts with head cleaner and a q-tip (noting sharp or of metal) and also lift the round rubber cap ontop the pinch roller, undo the screw lift of the roller and clean it's post and interior roller bushing. Don't use head cleaner on the roller rubber and Do not oil Anything on this whole machine. contact cleaner for pots and selector is ok.
If you need a tape, e-mail me to rockabillyrocks@hotmail.com and i'll hook you up.
GL.
Johnny.
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