Folks:
I am new to the Arduino world and my efforts to compile and upload the .ino file to the Nano 340G have been unsuccessful. Arduino IDE identified three port options:
Unknown
/dev/cu.BLTH
Unknown
/dev/cu.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port
Arduino Nano
/dev/cu.usbserial-1430
I've tried all three and for each selected "Arduino Nano" as the board type. As long as the Nano is connected to my MacBook Pro, the Nano's green LED stays lit, the red LED flashes and the yellow LED very briefly lights when the red LED's state changes. The reset button on the Nano has been pressed just before each attempt at compiling and uploading the .ino file.
When the first port option above is selected, the following error message results:
Sketch uses 3340 bytes (10%) of program storage space. Maximum is 30720 bytes.
Global variables use 79 bytes (3%) of dynamic memory, leaving 1969 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2048 bytes.
avrdude: ser_open(): can't open device "/dev/cu.BLTH": Resource busy
Failed uploading: uploading error: exit status 1
When the second port option above is selected, the following error message results:
Sketch uses 3340 bytes (10%) of program storage space. Maximum is 30720 bytes.
Global variables use 79 bytes (3%) of dynamic memory, leaving 1969 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2048 bytes.
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 2 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 3 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 4 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 5 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 6 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 7 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 8 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 9 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
Failed uploading: uploading error: exit status 1
Here is the error message I receive when the third port option is selected:
Sketch uses 3340 bytes (10%) of program storage space. Maximum is 30720 bytes.
Global variables use 79 bytes (3%) of dynamic memory, leaving 1969 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2048 bytes.
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 2 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 3 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 4 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 5 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 6 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 7 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 8 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 9 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
Failed uploading: uploading error: exit status 1
Can anyone offer sage advice to this Arduino dope?
Regards,
Scott
I am new to the Arduino world and my efforts to compile and upload the .ino file to the Nano 340G have been unsuccessful. Arduino IDE identified three port options:
Unknown
/dev/cu.BLTH
Unknown
/dev/cu.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port
Arduino Nano
/dev/cu.usbserial-1430
I've tried all three and for each selected "Arduino Nano" as the board type. As long as the Nano is connected to my MacBook Pro, the Nano's green LED stays lit, the red LED flashes and the yellow LED very briefly lights when the red LED's state changes. The reset button on the Nano has been pressed just before each attempt at compiling and uploading the .ino file.
When the first port option above is selected, the following error message results:
Sketch uses 3340 bytes (10%) of program storage space. Maximum is 30720 bytes.
Global variables use 79 bytes (3%) of dynamic memory, leaving 1969 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2048 bytes.
avrdude: ser_open(): can't open device "/dev/cu.BLTH": Resource busy
Failed uploading: uploading error: exit status 1
When the second port option above is selected, the following error message results:
Sketch uses 3340 bytes (10%) of program storage space. Maximum is 30720 bytes.
Global variables use 79 bytes (3%) of dynamic memory, leaving 1969 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2048 bytes.
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 2 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 3 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 4 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 5 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 6 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 7 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 8 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 9 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
Failed uploading: uploading error: exit status 1
Here is the error message I receive when the third port option is selected:
Sketch uses 3340 bytes (10%) of program storage space. Maximum is 30720 bytes.
Global variables use 79 bytes (3%) of dynamic memory, leaving 1969 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2048 bytes.
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 2 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 3 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 4 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 5 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 6 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 7 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 8 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 9 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x00
Failed uploading: uploading error: exit status 1
Can anyone offer sage advice to this Arduino dope?
Regards,
Scott
So I am using the 2.x version of the Arduino IDE for a PC so I am not famliar with the Mac. I connect from the PC USB port to the MicroUSB connector on the Nano, and no AVR dude used. In the IDE I choose the Nano from the menu of boards, then when I connect the Nano to the PC I get a choice of ports. I know it is a different port depending on which laptop I am using but both work. Once the Nano is connector to the computer the power through the USB will power up and run the internal program which most come programmed with BLINK, which blinks the on-board LED connected to pin 13, also the power LED comes on and stays on. When programming one of the LEDs will flash.
Sorry I can't help more on the Mac but if you go to the forum at Arduino.cc there are many Mac experts that can help you.
Sorry I can't help more on the Mac but if you go to the forum at Arduino.cc there are many Mac experts that can help you.
Maybe you have the old loader? This has happened to me.
https://arduino.stackexchange.com/q...-avrdude-stk500-getsync-not-in-sync-resp-0xa4
johnhenryharris:
Understood and you're right -- I'll head over to the Arduino.cc forum for help.
lene:
I have v2.1.0, which was released less than 3 weeks ago. I'm brand new to Arduino and it's likely my problem is incredibly basic (and embarrassing).
I'll report back if/when this gets resolved. In the meantime, thanks to both of you for the support!
Regards.
Understood and you're right -- I'll head over to the Arduino.cc forum for help.
lene:
I have v2.1.0, which was released less than 3 weeks ago. I'm brand new to Arduino and it's likely my problem is incredibly basic (and embarrassing).
I'll report back if/when this gets resolved. In the meantime, thanks to both of you for the support!
Regards.
I purchase arduino nano's for rs.419 from flyrobo.in and you can also by from this company.arduino nano R3 compatible board with CH340 chip soldered
Folks:
I've made progress! It turns out the Nano I purchased (https://www.ebay.com/itm/225412969248) requires an ancient driver, which I located, and has now been programmed. The next step is to solder those pesky, small SMD components.
Thanks for the support!
Regards,
Scott
I've made progress! It turns out the Nano I purchased (https://www.ebay.com/itm/225412969248) requires an ancient driver, which I located, and has now been programmed. The next step is to solder those pesky, small SMD components.
Thanks for the support!
Regards,
Scott
For soldering SMD parts I like to wet the PCB pads with liquid flux, position the part on the pads and pin it down with a Qtip. Wipe the soldering iron tip on a wet sponge, tin it then touch the PCB pad with the iron and let any solder on the tip flow under the part. Once you pin the corners down the rest is a piece of cake. BTW, when I layout a PCB I don't use SMD parts smaller than a 1206 so I can at least see the damn things without a microscope. 🙂
JHH:
I don't mean to be critical, but the Hall effect sensor was the tiniest damn thing I ever tried to solder. Kudos to those who think nothing of taking on that challenge, but my eyes will likely stay crossed for at least a week. Dinosaurs like me aren't equipped to embrace the SMD future.
Regards,
Scott
I don't mean to be critical, but the Hall effect sensor was the tiniest damn thing I ever tried to solder. Kudos to those who think nothing of taking on that challenge, but my eyes will likely stay crossed for at least a week. Dinosaurs like me aren't equipped to embrace the SMD future.
Regards,
Scott
Folks:
The Nano has been programmed. When initialized, the 7-segment LEDs display "88.888" before shutting off and the last display briefly lights up as "0". The single LED stays lit at all times. I temporarily attached a 5mm dia x 2mm tall Neodymium magnet to my platter and the Hall effect sensor is positioned within 2-3mm from the magnet, but the tachometer isn't reporting the speed.
A few questions:
Sorry for being a burden, and I appreciate any/all help anyone can offer. If you can think of another possible cause, please speak up.
Regards,
Scott
The Nano has been programmed. When initialized, the 7-segment LEDs display "88.888" before shutting off and the last display briefly lights up as "0". The single LED stays lit at all times. I temporarily attached a 5mm dia x 2mm tall Neodymium magnet to my platter and the Hall effect sensor is positioned within 2-3mm from the magnet, but the tachometer isn't reporting the speed.
A few questions:
The leads from the tachometer to the sensor are 29" long, and I'm measuring about 0.2R across each of the three 22 gauge wires. Could the length of the leads pose a problem?
I'm no engineer, but it seems the Hall effect sensor (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Diodes-Incorporated/AH3372-SA-7?qs=b%2B2mHxW/y4WmQnfkeqNEXA==) only senses the S end of the magnet. When the first magnet didn't seem to work, figuring the first magnet was improperly oriented I attached a second magnet, oriented oppositely, a few inches away on the platter. Still no luck.
It's possible my SMD soldering is an issue, but the pads look clean to me. If there's a soldering issue, I can't see it. Do you see anything obviously amiss?
Sorry for being a burden, and I appreciate any/all help anyone can offer. If you can think of another possible cause, please speak up.
Regards,
Scott
Attachments
Oops! I neglected to mention that the resistors on my board differ from the BOM. R1 is 13k7 and R2-R14 are 300R.
You have the blue and black wires switched at the hall sensor. Blue is your signal and red/black are simply power. The LED should only come on with a trigger/signal so that seems to back up the switched wiring.
If anyone doesn't look forward to soldering SOT footprints, you can also find pre-assembled boards on Amazon or Aliexpress for much less than Digikey/Mouser. If you end up building more than 1, it's definitely worth considering:
Amazon Hall Sensors
Amazon Hall Sensors
Glad you got it working. I had one of mine not work and I tracked it to a leg on the divider chip not soldered. Found it by walking the oscillator path with an oscilloscope. Your trigger LED on continuously was a good clue to crossed wiring on the sensor. 🙂
I just ordered a lighted magnifying glass on a crane neck. My eyes are not what they used to be. 🙂
Not yet. It's possible the problem has arisen because of poor SMD soldering (I suspect not, but we'll see). I bought a hot air station a few years ago but never got around to using it. I'm going to try building a second board using hot air for the SMD components; perhaps my luck will improve. Amazon delivered the solder paste yesterday, so perhaps today I'll get started.
I'll report my results asap.
Thanks for the support!
I'll report my results asap.
Thanks for the support!
Hi Scott, if you like, send it to me for troubleshooting. I have a MetCal soldering station that does amazing work. I prefer to solder with a very fine tip, I am not good with hot air.
JHH:
Damn, that's a very compelling offer. Let me fuss with the boards I have for another day or so and I'll get back to you, probably via PM.
Thank you,
Scott
Damn, that's a very compelling offer. Let me fuss with the boards I have for another day or so and I'll get back to you, probably via PM.
Thank you,
Scott
So, Scott sent me 2 complete boards, one hand soldered with an iron and one soldered with hot air and solder paste. They were having problems with the display.
I examined both boards, the hot air version had the first and last LEDs slightly twisted and I was measuring all pins shorted together so figuring I would have to pull the SMD display chips I put it aside and played with the other one. The hand soldered one showed a short between pins 1 and 2 of the display chips. Couldn't tell which Chip since they are all in parallel. So I reflowed each display chips pins/pads and it still was shorting so I used some solder wick across all the pins 1-5 on each chip pulling out the excess solder. Retesting and it was good, one board down, on to the next.
I started with removing the two LED displays chips from the ends, re-measuring did not remove the shorts. I did notice a lot of solder and solder paste still under the display chip. So I removed the other three display chips, cleaned all the excess solder off the board and the displays and soldered them back on, checking after each one for any shorts. All good, testing, great, problems solved.
Each case was too much solder. You really don't need much on SMD chips pin/pads. I haven't used solder paste myself but I worked in the electronic industry and taught the techs troubleshooting at the assembly houses and watched the solder paste applied and the pick-n-place machine work, always mesmerizing. Anyways the solder paste was squeeged onto the board through a solder mask, a lot like silkscreening, so the paste was only a couple thousands thick on the pads, so not much.
Note for troubleshooting LED display chips: If Common Cathode use a ohmeter with a beep funtion, put the negative probe on the CC pin and with the postive probe touch the other pins one at a time and you will see a LED segment light up and a beep at the other CC pin. For Common Anode reverse your leads.
Scott, Your boards go in the mail tomorrow morning Priority One. Since Monday is Memorial Day they will probably be delivered around Tuesday. I will PM the tracking number when I have it.
Have a good Holiday All.
I examined both boards, the hot air version had the first and last LEDs slightly twisted and I was measuring all pins shorted together so figuring I would have to pull the SMD display chips I put it aside and played with the other one. The hand soldered one showed a short between pins 1 and 2 of the display chips. Couldn't tell which Chip since they are all in parallel. So I reflowed each display chips pins/pads and it still was shorting so I used some solder wick across all the pins 1-5 on each chip pulling out the excess solder. Retesting and it was good, one board down, on to the next.
I started with removing the two LED displays chips from the ends, re-measuring did not remove the shorts. I did notice a lot of solder and solder paste still under the display chip. So I removed the other three display chips, cleaned all the excess solder off the board and the displays and soldered them back on, checking after each one for any shorts. All good, testing, great, problems solved.
Each case was too much solder. You really don't need much on SMD chips pin/pads. I haven't used solder paste myself but I worked in the electronic industry and taught the techs troubleshooting at the assembly houses and watched the solder paste applied and the pick-n-place machine work, always mesmerizing. Anyways the solder paste was squeeged onto the board through a solder mask, a lot like silkscreening, so the paste was only a couple thousands thick on the pads, so not much.
Note for troubleshooting LED display chips: If Common Cathode use a ohmeter with a beep funtion, put the negative probe on the CC pin and with the postive probe touch the other pins one at a time and you will see a LED segment light up and a beep at the other CC pin. For Common Anode reverse your leads.
Scott, Your boards go in the mail tomorrow morning Priority One. Since Monday is Memorial Day they will probably be delivered around Tuesday. I will PM the tracking number when I have it.
Have a good Holiday All.