Hi
I hope it is just a mistake "I twisted all 4 3avg cardas calbles together"
I can not imagine you use 3AWG cable at any turntable or any other HI-FI device.
It must be 43AWG. When you use wood tone arm you have to shield the tonearm wire, otherwise will buzz. It pick up a lot of noise. That is true any non metal tone arm (wind). Cardas sell shielded wire you must use that type if you go with Cardas.
Can be other problems to (connections etc.) but first we must know what type of wire you use.
Picture(s) would help a lot.
Greetings
You insult my intelligence
Here's how it looks.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
ok, you've got a solid aluminum end tube and that allows you to precisely machine a recess for the knot and then it appears you've glued in the magnet underneath that? in other words the thread in your arm is not attached directly to the magnet...
I have a wood end tube with just a 2mm thick alu tube so I am trying to use the magnet to attach the thread to. I've got an idea I am trying in the shop now that may work.....
I have a wood end tube with just a 2mm thick alu tube so I am trying to use the magnet to attach the thread to. I've got an idea I am trying in the shop now that may work.....
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Well, I finally figured out why this was so difficult. I had thought that the bias knob needed to be threaded into the top plate. When in fact, it just needs to rotate without threads. This made things alot easier and I now have a nice working arm. Seems nice and smooth, centered and a couple turns of the wheel and the bias actually does what it should.
Frank, as you see here I have a dual looped thread and the anchor up top is just a small drill bit laid on its side. There is plenty of pressure\magnet pull and it stays in place nicely. Using both threads allows me to run one down each side of the magnet screw and therefore ends up pretty centered. If you recall from my last post I am using the mag screw as the mechanism to both hold the upper magnet in place and also clamp the thread in place..........
This threaded insert used here has very accurate and no-slop action and is better than the grub screws i had tried previously...........but Do you think this arrangement will cause significant issues? I can refashion the top ebony screw to use the small brass grub screw/single thread, and to it the way most of the arms handle the top anchor but if this method shown here, works, frankly i have no issues just using it as is since i've got alot of blood sweat and tears in this already.....casey
I will find a way to recess that bottom mag screw as well.......
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Hi Casey,
Attaching the thread, either held by a knot or in the shape of a loop by a piece of wire/thin bar.... will work without issues, but - precise centering of the upper exit/attachment point of the thread is a must. Otherwise you'll change azimuth every time you change the antiskating setting.
Your sackhole(in the armwand) looks still as if it is so small as not to allow for the arm to move much vertically without touching/interfering.
@Hiten: That's the arrangement of my No.1 arm, albeit with a smaller(less stable) base. I'll post pics of that arrangement later, -with the option of adjusting the effective attachment point of the lower end of the threads... and the ability to have the horizontal axis at the same angle as the headshell offset.
Sorry, gotta run.
Frank
Attaching the thread, either held by a knot or in the shape of a loop by a piece of wire/thin bar.... will work without issues, but - precise centering of the upper exit/attachment point of the thread is a must. Otherwise you'll change azimuth every time you change the antiskating setting.
Your sackhole(in the armwand) looks still as if it is so small as not to allow for the arm to move much vertically without touching/interfering.
@Hiten: That's the arrangement of my No.1 arm, albeit with a smaller(less stable) base. I'll post pics of that arrangement later, -with the option of adjusting the effective attachment point of the lower end of the threads... and the ability to have the horizontal axis at the same angle as the headshell offset.
Sorry, gotta run.
Frank
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
a 2nd attempt at laminating a thinned down metal headshell into the one piece wand......before I spend any more time on fine tuning this/ frank or others, do you see any problems ? geometry/size etc?
fyi, the headshell started out as the technics style. It was thinned down to a consistent 1mm or so. A careful sawkerf (used jap hand saw) was put down the middle and it was epoxy'ed in and clamped. The added weight from the thin headshell is minimum and it still had quite a bit of stiffness which I believe will transfer to the wood along with the glue lamination. The overall arm is still quite light. But the geometry I do not know much about. All I did was took my 222mm spindle to pivot and added the standard 15mm overhang. I then placed the headshell at that point and eyeballed a 20 degree angle.........
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also, regarding the exit hole for the arm wires. I see alot of guys are placing it on the bottom of arm about 2 inches or so from pivot point,,,,,,I drilled mine about 5mm in front of the magnet (pivot) thinking that Id want to get those wires as close to that pivot as possible since the lateral movement will be less the closer the exit hole is to the pivot. Do I need to move my hole/exit point more forward on the arm for some reason unkown? thanks
Thank you sir. That is assuring that I am not getting carried away. (I do this to explore and little creative mental exercise
) Here are two more modifications one is a metal tortion clip to hold the thread in place. Second is keeping the base magnet on a ball bearing. This I guess is for uneven magnetic attraction the two magnets may be having. So As tonearm moves the base magnet also moves so pull is even in all position. Thanks again and regards.
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Hi,
For 222mm p-s distance, Baerward geometry calls for an eff. length of 239,3mm, so the overhang is 17,3mm (NOT 15mm!) and the offset angle ought to be 23°.
Some pics of the No.1 attached(not supposed to be considered advertizing!
It shows an easy way to implement the inverted Y string arrangement.
Cheers,
Frank
P.S. A ball bearing in that place ought to feature ceramic bearing balls...non-magnetic. If the upper magnet is potted or equipped with a pole plate, that is...
For 222mm p-s distance, Baerward geometry calls for an eff. length of 239,3mm, so the overhang is 17,3mm (NOT 15mm!) and the offset angle ought to be 23°.
Some pics of the No.1 attached(not supposed to be considered advertizing!
It shows an easy way to implement the inverted Y string arrangement.
Cheers,
Frank
P.S. A ball bearing in that place ought to feature ceramic bearing balls...non-magnetic. If the upper magnet is potted or equipped with a pole plate, that is...
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