Positive rail: 24.8VDC at input, 1.2VDC at output
Negative rail: 24.8VDC at input, -0.8VDC at output.
24.7V across both R9 and R10
Attachments
Seconding what Ben Mah suggests. You've got good voltage leading into the second cap leg of the CRC filter. No LED is installed so no short to ground there. Solder pads look better. Might want to try taking R11 and R12 out of the circuit to see if there is a short there.
Yes, just use a meter. No need to complicate things with an oscilloscope.
With the power off, also measure the resistance at one of the empty resistor spots. They are in parallel with the other resistors. This will give the overall resistance of the paralleled resistors that are in place.
With the power off, also measure the resistance at one of the empty resistor spots. They are in parallel with the other resistors. This will give the overall resistance of the paralleled resistors that are in place.
Was away for the day. We finally got some decent weather in my area. 
I thought you'd have your dilemma solved by now. I read back through the posts from others. Most are much more concise than I. 
Others have also gotten around to the snubber network. I wouldn't yank it yet. Removal of parts (until necessary or validated as the cause) can perhaps unintentionally cause other issues. If you've yanked it, then no worries. Carry on.
First... just in case again... check the continuity for each of your secondary windings and make sure you have them separated properly. Separate each secondary winding end-pair and perhaps tape them. If you were getting some of the measurements you mentioned earlier, it's unlikely that you've not done it properly, but it adds confidence. It will help to be all-the-more certain that you connect each secondary properly as you connect and disconnect.
I'll echo what some others have mentioned and just ask that you concisely put a few things in a summary. Use only a simple DMM.
Confirm - 18ish VAC across each secondary winding.
Confirm - 24ish (unfiltered) VDC at the rectifiers' output.
You mentioned some higher voltages at the rectifiers along with not seeing any voltage across C3. Both of those things are where I'd begin to narrow focus. However, you'll want confidence that everything leading up to the CRC filters is as it should be first.
Also, as mentioned, if you do happen to have a DBT, use it.
That should narrow down whether the issue is before and/or with the CRC filter board.
Again, most others are more knowledgeable than I, but that's how I'd approach narrowing it down and making it easy to move along in stages.
I thought you'd have your dilemma solved by now. I read back through the posts from others. Most are much more concise than I. Others have also gotten around to the snubber network. I wouldn't yank it yet. Removal of parts (until necessary or validated as the cause) can perhaps unintentionally cause other issues. If you've yanked it, then no worries. Carry on.
First... just in case again... check the continuity for each of your secondary windings and make sure you have them separated properly. Separate each secondary winding end-pair and perhaps tape them. If you were getting some of the measurements you mentioned earlier, it's unlikely that you've not done it properly, but it adds confidence. It will help to be all-the-more certain that you connect each secondary properly as you connect and disconnect.
I'll echo what some others have mentioned and just ask that you concisely put a few things in a summary. Use only a simple DMM.
Confirm - 18ish VAC across each secondary winding.
Confirm - 24ish (unfiltered) VDC at the rectifiers' output.
You mentioned some higher voltages at the rectifiers along with not seeing any voltage across C3. Both of those things are where I'd begin to narrow focus. However, you'll want confidence that everything leading up to the CRC filters is as it should be first.
Also, as mentioned, if you do happen to have a DBT, use it.
That should narrow down whether the issue is before and/or with the CRC filter board.
Again, most others are more knowledgeable than I, but that's how I'd approach narrowing it down and making it easy to move along in stages.
I'm usually the first one to say 'use a scope' but not here. Just use a normal DVM.
If you have 18 v AC going into the bridge then you should have 25 volt full wave rectified cycles on the bridge output.
If you temporarily add a suitable cap (say 100uF or more and 35 volt rated) directly across the bridge output you should see 25 volts DC on the meter across that temporary cap. Be sure to get the polarity of the cap correct yes yes
Now with the leads from the bridge extended to the board and connected so they connect here then you should see that same 25 volts across R9 and C3.
If you have 18 v AC going into the bridge then you should have 25 volt full wave rectified cycles on the bridge output.
If you temporarily add a suitable cap (say 100uF or more and 35 volt rated) directly across the bridge output you should see 25 volts DC on the meter across that temporary cap. Be sure to get the polarity of the cap correct yes
yes Now with the leads from the bridge extended to the board and connected so they connect here then you should see that same 25 volts across R9 and C3.
First you need to address the issue of the voltage at the bridge rectifier. Did you use a meter to measure the voltage at the bridge as Mooly asked. You need to be sure that is working properly.
The four 0.47R resistors in parallel has a net resistance of 0.12R. It will drop voltage in proportion to the current through them: V = I x R. If your power supply is not loaded (not drawing current), then the voltage across the resistors would be zero.
The four 0.47R resistors in parallel has a net resistance of 0.12R. It will drop voltage in proportion to the current through them: V = I x R. If your power supply is not loaded (not drawing current), then the voltage across the resistors would be zero.