Probably 3-400hz 12/db high pass with active Dayton kabd board.any idea about the crossover ?
Foam core can let you make prototypes very quickly and they can sound amazingly great. Sort of egg shaped but prismatic faces.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/hyperfast-a-hypercube-based-2-way.265915/
I have also done rounded curves by scoring the foam on the concave side.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/fh3-inspired-foam-core-mini-build.227460/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/the-nautaloss-ref-monitor.247598/
You can certainly cover the foam core with wood veneer or fiberglass. Often this is for durability and not to improve the sound. Sometimes, wood will sound worse since it reflects sound and doesn’t provide as much absorption of resonances.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/hyperfast-a-hypercube-based-2-way.265915/
I have also done rounded curves by scoring the foam on the concave side.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/fh3-inspired-foam-core-mini-build.227460/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/the-nautaloss-ref-monitor.247598/
You can certainly cover the foam core with wood veneer or fiberglass. Often this is for durability and not to improve the sound. Sometimes, wood will sound worse since it reflects sound and doesn’t provide as much absorption of resonances.
Pardon, not a guru and this may be a stupid question: Is the primary motivation to make an egg speaker, is it a compromise for reflections with your spouse, or is it just the current idea on how to solve the problem?... I have no realistic choice for the bookshelf speakers location except on the shelves and in the corners. The hoping is that the tightening polar response starting around 1khz, where wavelength gets around a foot in length, will help with the wall’s being so close. ...
Just posting the living room again for a visual reference on using the 10F’s to control reflections. ...
If its one of the first two, I get it.
If it's the latter, here's a off the wall idea. If the shelves were split into upper and lower corner mounted shelves, may be there is room for a corner mounted horn that uses the walls as part of the design? Again, not a guru, just had read another thread where someone was shaping the horn/directivity(?) to avoid a wall.
(and maybe move the light away from the thermostat, although most are LED now)
It’s becoming for the sake of art kinda. I seriously would probably be just as good with my current cabinets that are almost finished and the 10Fs would drop right into the top cutout. Considering the speakers have to go in the corner I wonder if smoothing difraction would even matter when the waves are headed straight into the corner. Maybe I should slow my roll and see where these cubic enclosures get me with the scans. The edges have a 1/2” or maybe 3/4” round over alreadyPardon, not a guru and this may be a stupid question: Is the primary motivation to make an egg speaker, is it a compromise for reflections with your spouse, or is it just the current idea on how to solve the problem?
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Getting into horns and such is going to be pushing the spouse acceptance factor and I’m not sure if I would want even small horns in my small living room. The furthest I’d be willing to go would be some 3’-4’ tall wedge enclosures in each corner with 554’s and fullrangers. My volume requirements is anything between .15-.2 cf.
Roger. It was probably a wild goose chase anyway.
For anyone else that may have been mildly interested, as was doodling with the kids anyway, this was what was in my head. I am not sure I was using the right terms, maybe it's more of a waveguide than a horn?
For anyone else that may have been mildly interested, as was doodling with the kids anyway, this was what was in my head. I am not sure I was using the right terms, maybe it's more of a waveguide than a horn?
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Your enclosure was along the line of what I was thinking, maybe two feet tall or so and a little less than a quarter cubic foot internal volume.Roger. It was probably a wild goose chase anyway.
For anyone else that may have been mildly interested, as was doodling with the kids anyway, this was what was in my head. I am not sure I was using the right terms, maybe it's more of a waveguide than a horn?
I’m surprised no one has praised or mentioned a better 4” class fullranger in regard to the 10f.
So, for the uneducated, is this a good read of the differences, using Driver B:
On axis:
Looks like both have dips at 380Hz, 600Hz, and maybe something at 2.8-3KHz, so driver? And both drop at 10KHz so ignore above that?
The cuboid (box) jumps up 600-800Hz, has a dip at 1.7KHz, possible hump at 1.9KHz, and another at -relative- hump at 5KHz with a dip at 6KHz?
The sphere still has a rise (baffle step?) but slower 600-2KHz and a much smoother 4-6KHz trace with a little sag between not sure if that is driver or enclosure?
Off axis:
The box has a big dip at 3.3KHz and a more turbulent path 5-7KHz as the on-axis hump/dip seems to move around?
The sphere is much smoother relatively in all the off-axis traces.
So the cuboid shape is creating a faster baffle step rise, diffraction(?) discontinuities at possibly 380, 600, 3.3K, 5-7KHz? And a smarter person might be able to derive the baffle shape/distances from that information?
On axis:
Looks like both have dips at 380Hz, 600Hz, and maybe something at 2.8-3KHz, so driver? And both drop at 10KHz so ignore above that?
The cuboid (box) jumps up 600-800Hz, has a dip at 1.7KHz, possible hump at 1.9KHz, and another at -relative- hump at 5KHz with a dip at 6KHz?
The sphere still has a rise (baffle step?) but slower 600-2KHz and a much smoother 4-6KHz trace with a little sag between not sure if that is driver or enclosure?
Off axis:
The box has a big dip at 3.3KHz and a more turbulent path 5-7KHz as the on-axis hump/dip seems to move around?
The sphere is much smoother relatively in all the off-axis traces.
So the cuboid shape is creating a faster baffle step rise, diffraction(?) discontinuities at possibly 380, 600, 3.3K, 5-7KHz? And a smarter person might be able to derive the baffle shape/distances from that information?
I’m surprised no one has praised or mentioned a better 4” class fullranger in regard to the 10f.
10F is a 3” and the one most commonly referenced is really a midrange. The one that is a FR is OK.

Alpair 7.3/7 MAOP/Pluvia 7HD would be my choice over the 10F, and if a 3” FF*%wk (needs at least minimal mods) and Alpair 5.2/3, The MAOP version is a really serious midTweeter.
After the TC9 fiasco i only comment on drivers i have heard (TC9 ended up being really poor).
dave
Hi Dave,
What makes you say that? Have you got any data to support that? I'm happy to hear anecdotal data.
In fact that spherical enclosure is not what I'm using for that driver. The cabinet on the right (rectangular) is what I ended up using, and when I get a chance I'll explain why. Probably in a few days.
What makes you say that? Have you got any data to support that? I'm happy to hear anecdotal data.
In fact that spherical enclosure is not what I'm using for that driver. The cabinet on the right (rectangular) is what I ended up using, and when I get a chance I'll explain why. Probably in a few days.
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The bigger the driver in the sphere the more the enclosure acts like a cylinder than a sphere. But cylinders don't actually have to be bad.
Simulation that might help explain here
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/headshakes-far-field-3way.382393/post-7148880
Simulation that might help explain here
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/headshakes-far-field-3way.382393/post-7148880
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