What would the experienced audiophiles think about this setup for non-modern music (if one disregards Stockhausen, Reich et al.)?
I just got hold of two 283 litre 4-port , single EVX-180 boxes at a great price. I have two EVM-15L which I initially wanted to port into lower frequencies but don't need to now.
I have a setup with an LPG 10" with a 12" drone, LPG 50mm dome midrange and 25mm LPG dome tweeter.
I feed these with an ancient Bedini 100W+100W class A for the subwoofers, an Aronov LS-960 for the mid, and a low cost Chinese tube amp for the highs. I'm using a Rane active crossover.
That's background.
Question: Would using the EVM-15L give me a more satisfying experience for the mids? Given that I'm mostly listening to voice, strings and piano?
I'm also picking up a pair of Audax HM170Z18 today.
I also have two EV DH-3 horn mid-high.
Some additional background: I have two Karlson 15 with University tri-axial and JBL fullrange, and two Karlson 12 with University 312 diffaxials.
These don't do it for me anymore, though.
Which of these would you put together? This is likely my last build.
I just got hold of two 283 litre 4-port , single EVX-180 boxes at a great price. I have two EVM-15L which I initially wanted to port into lower frequencies but don't need to now.
I have a setup with an LPG 10" with a 12" drone, LPG 50mm dome midrange and 25mm LPG dome tweeter.
I feed these with an ancient Bedini 100W+100W class A for the subwoofers, an Aronov LS-960 for the mid, and a low cost Chinese tube amp for the highs. I'm using a Rane active crossover.
That's background.
Question: Would using the EVM-15L give me a more satisfying experience for the mids? Given that I'm mostly listening to voice, strings and piano?
I'm also picking up a pair of Audax HM170Z18 today.
I also have two EV DH-3 horn mid-high.
Some additional background: I have two Karlson 15 with University tri-axial and JBL fullrange, and two Karlson 12 with University 312 diffaxials.
These don't do it for me anymore, though.
Which of these would you put together? This is likely my last build.
Some mfg datasheets at least.
http://www.dibirama.altervista.org/...udax-hm170z18-mid-woofer-6-8-ohm-120wmax.html
http://www.dibirama.altervista.org/...udax-hm170z18-mid-woofer-6-8-ohm-120wmax.html
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I happen to be running a pair of EV 15W drivers from 60 hz to about 900hz. The EVM-15L looks like the 15W as far as specs go. Just likely the newer version. The 3.3mm Xmax might upset some but it means there is a lot of force and lower moving mass. Good for vocals.
Before the existing setup I tried to go with lower efficiency speakers and just could not make it work.
I think you would need some good horn midrange to match the EVM-15L. The EVM-15L would not reach 2K gracefully to cross to the DH-3 horn. 800 to 1K would be a good crossover point.
As far as amplifier you would want something like a 10 watt class A amplifier for the EVM-15L and horn drivers. You would need to be pushing pretty loud to need more than 10 watts.
A class D amp should work fine for the subwoofers.
Before the existing setup I tried to go with lower efficiency speakers and just could not make it work.
I think you would need some good horn midrange to match the EVM-15L. The EVM-15L would not reach 2K gracefully to cross to the DH-3 horn. 800 to 1K would be a good crossover point.
As far as amplifier you would want something like a 10 watt class A amplifier for the EVM-15L and horn drivers. You would need to be pushing pretty loud to need more than 10 watts.
A class D amp should work fine for the subwoofers.
I could be wrong about the DH3 driver not reaching the 15L. May need a horn large enough for a roughly 1K cutoff. Might depend on your loudness requirements. I would want some sort of super tweeter to go above 8K though.
Know the dimensions of that horn or the expected cutoff?
Also wondering the size of the room where they will be used?
If you are going with a sealed box for the 15LI would still want at least three cubic feet and also some truncated surfaces if possible. Other option would be open baffle if you have room and enough space behind it.
I have tried lots of drivers in my lifetime and seem to get stuck on a 15 inch midrange-midbass. They may be slightly more coloration compared to smaller drivers but it just works better for instruments that are plucked, struck or whacked.
Also wondering the size of the room where they will be used?
If you are going with a sealed box for the 15LI would still want at least three cubic feet and also some truncated surfaces if possible. Other option would be open baffle if you have room and enough space behind it.
I have tried lots of drivers in my lifetime and seem to get stuck on a 15 inch midrange-midbass. They may be slightly more coloration compared to smaller drivers but it just works better for instruments that are plucked, struck or whacked.
@daqvin_carter I'm all for open baffle. The room is quite small by USA standards, maybe 15x15 (?) feet with 12 ft ceiling. There is an open 6ft x 8ft door to the dining room, which is 15 x 20 ft.
I don't have anyone to bother about sizing . The subwoofers are already 37x24x24 inches, with another 24x14x14 box on top of it. And the horns and some open baffle tweeters on top.
I grew up with a mono Leak and Goodmans ported speaker (which a friend borrowed and never returned). Been trying to get back to that sound for 45 years and never could. Now realize I may have imagined the sound I thought was so great.
I ran the Karlson gamut but the more I listen to "modern" speakers, the more I';m disappointed. Will likely take the University 312-200 speakers out and open baffle them. Matching them to a modern speaker will of course be quite daunting.
I don't have anyone to bother about sizing . The subwoofers are already 37x24x24 inches, with another 24x14x14 box on top of it. And the horns and some open baffle tweeters on top.
I grew up with a mono Leak and Goodmans ported speaker (which a friend borrowed and never returned). Been trying to get back to that sound for 45 years and never could. Now realize I may have imagined the sound I thought was so great.
I ran the Karlson gamut but the more I listen to "modern" speakers, the more I';m disappointed. Will likely take the University 312-200 speakers out and open baffle them. Matching them to a modern speaker will of course be quite daunting.
This is the EV system from which the 15L and DH3 came.
I see it's actually a DH1202 compression driver.
Crossover is 1500Hz.
I see it's actually a DH1202 compression driver.
Crossover is 1500Hz.
I would choose open baffle if you could keep it three feet from the wall. Otherwise just some truncated sealed box.
If you have he parts for a third order at 1500 hz I would give that a try. You would want about a 7db pad for the DH3. If you are really looking for perfect sound you may want to look into using a tapped inductor on the high pass to keep the dampening factor high.
The room gets close to a cube which could make for some problems around 40HZ or so. Hope the dining room door can be kept open.
If you have he parts for a third order at 1500 hz I would give that a try. You would want about a 7db pad for the DH3. If you are really looking for perfect sound you may want to look into using a tapped inductor on the high pass to keep the dampening factor high.
The room gets close to a cube which could make for some problems around 40HZ or so. Hope the dining room door can be kept open.
@daqvin_carter I put one 15l into a -albeit small- open baffle. I'm disappointed though. Clarity is not there.
Do you have a way to measure the response? Any sort of microphone that works for voice should do. REW is my go to for measuring speakers.
Also how far from a wall is it? May be worth measuring at a few distances.
Also how far from a wall is it? May be worth measuring at a few distances.
I ordered a Parts Express microphone last week. Had hoped it would be here by now.
Listening to Beethoven Cello Sonatas tonight and switched back to Karlson 15 with tweeters sitting in top.
Listening to Beethoven Cello Sonatas tonight and switched back to Karlson 15 with tweeters sitting in top.
Close to a window with a small baffle might not do so well. Might want to wait until you have a microphone in hand. Hoping you have a test baffle or scrap wood.
Attaching the whole manual for the FR15-2 which has a crossover schematic at he bottom.
Note the cabinet volume is roughly 7 cubic feet.
Attaching the whole manual for the FR15-2 which has a crossover schematic at he bottom.
Note the cabinet volume is roughly 7 cubic feet.
I use EVM 15L drivers in Karlson K15 boxes for 60 - 500 hz, and they work well in this frequency range. I did not like the Karlsons with the EV drivers above 500 hz (i.e., 1000+ hz). These Karlson boxes are old, so what I did was open up the boxes and drizzle Elmers wood glue into each wood joint to reestablish a good bonding between all the joints - this reduced the ringing in some of the joints. Also, find a way to damp the wings and back panel.
I think that you could use the LPG 2 inch domes for the midrange and I guess the smaller LPG tweeters for the tweeters.
If you want to try something really different, mount the LPG drivers in Transylvania tubes. See this:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/fieldcoil-k-tube.363723/
If you want to try the Transylvania tubes, it is easy to cut and fashion PVC pipe into these tubes to see if the concept is desirable. And if that works well enough, you can look to improve on that concept.
Retsel
I think that you could use the LPG 2 inch domes for the midrange and I guess the smaller LPG tweeters for the tweeters.
If you want to try something really different, mount the LPG drivers in Transylvania tubes. See this:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/fieldcoil-k-tube.363723/
If you want to try the Transylvania tubes, it is easy to cut and fashion PVC pipe into these tubes to see if the concept is desirable. And if that works well enough, you can look to improve on that concept.
Retsel