I am in need of an amp with EQ and / or boost for my sealed TC-sounds epic 10" subwoofer.
I see many plate amp options from PE as well as quite a few options (with more advanced EQ) from Hypex via Madisound.
Then there are a few external amps...
What benefit may I get by going with a passive subwoofer and an external amp vs. a plate amp?
Thx
I see many plate amp options from PE as well as quite a few options (with more advanced EQ) from Hypex via Madisound.
Then there are a few external amps...
What benefit may I get by going with a passive subwoofer and an external amp vs. a plate amp?
Thx
Plate amp:
1. you don't need to find space in your rack for an extra amplifier.
2. Usually cheaper than an external amp of the same power level and features.
External amp:
1. you don't have to have a power outlet near to the subwoofer.
2. There's significantly less risk of your subwoofer developing a hum due to "ground-loop" issues.
3. Usually a lot more flexibility if there's more than one subwoofer involved.
My preference is for external amps.
1. you don't need to find space in your rack for an extra amplifier.
2. Usually cheaper than an external amp of the same power level and features.
External amp:
1. you don't have to have a power outlet near to the subwoofer.
2. There's significantly less risk of your subwoofer developing a hum due to "ground-loop" issues.
3. Usually a lot more flexibility if there's more than one subwoofer involved.
My preference is for external amps.
Another pro is that that external amps won't be rattled to death by the subwoofer. Most plate amps I've seen have failed due to vibration issues.
I like to use an active crossover and then get a big honkin pro amp to use for the subwoofer(s) usually you can get them pretty cheap as well.
I currently have a miniDSP setup with some Crown amps.
I like to use an active crossover and then get a big honkin pro amp to use for the subwoofer(s) usually you can get them pretty cheap as well.
I currently have a miniDSP setup with some Crown amps.
Pro amp input drive levels
Beware that "Pro" amps require +4 dBU or ~1.4 Vrms to be driven fully.
Consumer equipment levels are -10 dBV or ~0.316 Vrms.
.
I use a Behringer DEQ2496 equalizer with the optical input and then use optical cable to connect to DXC2496 for crossover duties.
Both operate at pro level voltages.
.
I use a combination of Pro amps and consumer amps, but have an 8 channel attenuator (with a remote volume control) to drop the 1.4 Volt levels to the 0.3 V on the channels required for consumer amps.
.
Some pro amps have DSP that allows for selectable lowpass (crossover) functions and highpass functions that protect a subwoofer driver from unloading at very low frequencies.
They also have peak limiters to protect sub drivers and sometimes EQ or PEQ functions are available.
Crown xti series Pro amps even have a Subharmonic synthesizer (like DBX 120A) to artificially create a lower octave of bass.
.
If you have the money I do recommend pro amps with DSP.
The Behringer Europower amps are popular and relatively cheap.
.
Also, if looking at Pro amps, find one that powers the fan down all the way when it is not required.
More info on dBU and dBV can be found at
dB dBu dBV to volts audio conversion
Dave
Beware that "Pro" amps require +4 dBU or ~1.4 Vrms to be driven fully.
Consumer equipment levels are -10 dBV or ~0.316 Vrms.
.
I use a Behringer DEQ2496 equalizer with the optical input and then use optical cable to connect to DXC2496 for crossover duties.
Both operate at pro level voltages.
.
I use a combination of Pro amps and consumer amps, but have an 8 channel attenuator (with a remote volume control) to drop the 1.4 Volt levels to the 0.3 V on the channels required for consumer amps.
.
Some pro amps have DSP that allows for selectable lowpass (crossover) functions and highpass functions that protect a subwoofer driver from unloading at very low frequencies.
They also have peak limiters to protect sub drivers and sometimes EQ or PEQ functions are available.
Crown xti series Pro amps even have a Subharmonic synthesizer (like DBX 120A) to artificially create a lower octave of bass.
.
If you have the money I do recommend pro amps with DSP.
The Behringer Europower amps are popular and relatively cheap.
.
Also, if looking at Pro amps, find one that powers the fan down all the way when it is not required.
More info on dBU and dBV can be found at
dB dBu dBV to volts audio conversion
Dave
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I try for the best sources and speakers I can muster. But I buy amps at the Salvation Army store (or equivalents). Lots of great inexpensive amps and EQ options available from 30 yrs ago that have a fraction of grunge of sources and speakers.
If you are talking subs, from what I read, you have no practical option besides digital processing to achieve the needed curve-tricks. Having said that, real limits to what EQ can do for a sub in as much as the room is the main culprit and crossover needs to be 24dB/octave at the north end and the rumble filter (which is essential to keep the cone from flapping around and the amp from wasting energy) needs to be rather steeper than that.
Ben
If you are talking subs, from what I read, you have no practical option besides digital processing to achieve the needed curve-tricks. Having said that, real limits to what EQ can do for a sub in as much as the room is the main culprit and crossover needs to be 24dB/octave at the north end and the rumble filter (which is essential to keep the cone from flapping around and the amp from wasting energy) needs to be rather steeper than that.
Ben
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Ben,
If the subs don't require time alignment, analog equalization, whether graphic or parametric can achieve any curve required, and often are available cheaply used.
I have seen analog crossovers and equalizers for as little as $25 at Music-Go-Round.
All true. But all that copper! All those sloppy and changing capacitors! all those mild slopes! For sure, low-level crossovers at low frequencies are a mess, not to mention infeasible to adjust. Only for those who believe you can model and then order from Parts Express and then solder and be done.
Active crossovers better, esp. home-brew where you know how to meddle in the components. The Bell Labs stockroom provided me with adjustable inductors for the crossover I used for 40 yrs, a luxury not many use.
B.
The analog crossovers and equalizers I am talking about are used before the amplifiers, passive crossovers or equalizers whether before or after the amp are difficult to get right.
Analog 24 dB per octave variable active crossovers and parametric EQ with even higher Q filters are common and cheap, used.
New DSP is generally cheaper per given features than analog now.
Analog 24 dB per octave variable active crossovers and parametric EQ with even higher Q filters are common and cheap, used.
New DSP is generally cheaper per given features than analog now.
Thanks for all the replies. I have checked the sizes of all the external amps listed here and for aesthetic reasons (and the fact that I would need to build a new rack / Tv stand) I am going to go with a plate unit.
I have chosen the hypex psc2.400 amp that can be bridged for subwoofer use. It has onboard DSC so I should be able to get some great bass extension.
The Madisound Speaker Store
I have chosen the hypex psc2.400 amp that can be bridged for subwoofer use. It has onboard DSC so I should be able to get some great bass extension.
The Madisound Speaker Store
Your Epic 10 can take 2000 watt peaks, the psc2.400 power supply is only capable of 500 watts.
500 watts may be enough for you, but if you wanted another six dB (or more) output, you might consider the SpeakerPower plate amps:
SP1-4000 $1299 4000W/2, 2400W/4, 1300W/8. 7 lbs
SP1-2400 $1199 2400/4, 1300W/8. 6 lbs
SP1-1000 $1099 1200W/4, 600W/8
The prices have been pulled from the website, so I am not positive that pricing is current.
I have used the SP1-4000 extensively with Lab 12s, which have similar power handling to the Epic 10.
With music tests, the SP1-4000 was able to produce 5 dB more peak output from a four ohm speaker than a Crest CC2800, which is rated for 965 watts at four ohms.
Art
I am replacing a pair of yung 500w amps due to excessive heat and assorted other failures so I know that 500w will be enough.
The output on the subs is matched to the rest of the system (plenty loud), so I do not for see a need to crank the sub output beyond where it is now.
Thx
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