hey guys
this will be my first build so got a lot to learn
im certainly no audiophile but i do like my music ranging from classical to a bit of r&b some 80's and a bit of dance stuff
id like to start with building two front speakers which will also be used in my home cinema setup
the amp i have is an old Denon AVR-2807 (7x110w) which will do for now , im sure underpowered for the below mentioned that i wish to run , but this will be upgraded in due time
Visaton TIW 250 XS, 8 ohm, 10 inch
Visaton AL 130, 8 ohm, 6 inch
Visaton KE 25 SC, 8 ohm, voice coil 25 mm
3-way crossover Visaton HW 3/130, 8 ohm, 300 / 4000 Hz
what i wish to do is get components that i can still use even if i add to the system . i dont want to have to buy new components each time i 'upgrade'
so the above mentioned items , if i want lower bass then i will prolly go with a single 15" however this is highly unlikely as im sure i will be disturbing the peace , i think for some effects a transducer in the sofa will have to suffice if want a bit more booom
with regards to the enclosures , i really dont want a square box look and would like to do an enclosure with some curves , as i work with composites im sure there will be some carbon touches here and there
so down to the enclosure design ... if i stick to manufacturer recommendations on volume , how important are the proportions ?
i wish to do a slight taper on the uprights but still keep the volume the same obviously
the attached speaker enclosure is v1 and im sure it will change many times before i start the build , but its a start
this will be my first build so got a lot to learn
im certainly no audiophile but i do like my music ranging from classical to a bit of r&b some 80's and a bit of dance stuff
id like to start with building two front speakers which will also be used in my home cinema setup
the amp i have is an old Denon AVR-2807 (7x110w) which will do for now , im sure underpowered for the below mentioned that i wish to run , but this will be upgraded in due time
Visaton TIW 250 XS, 8 ohm, 10 inch
Visaton AL 130, 8 ohm, 6 inch
Visaton KE 25 SC, 8 ohm, voice coil 25 mm
3-way crossover Visaton HW 3/130, 8 ohm, 300 / 4000 Hz
what i wish to do is get components that i can still use even if i add to the system . i dont want to have to buy new components each time i 'upgrade'
so the above mentioned items , if i want lower bass then i will prolly go with a single 15" however this is highly unlikely as im sure i will be disturbing the peace , i think for some effects a transducer in the sofa will have to suffice if want a bit more booom
with regards to the enclosures , i really dont want a square box look and would like to do an enclosure with some curves , as i work with composites im sure there will be some carbon touches here and there
so down to the enclosure design ... if i stick to manufacturer recommendations on volume , how important are the proportions ?
i wish to do a slight taper on the uprights but still keep the volume the same obviously
the attached speaker enclosure is v1 and im sure it will change many times before i start the build , but its a start
Attachments
hi cliffo,
no offence, but the crossover you choose is a generic type not really suiting your drivers.
Why not use the parts in the Visaton set "Conga". Its using the drivers you want and a customized crossover.
CONGA | Visaton
no offence, but the crossover you choose is a generic type not really suiting your drivers.
Why not use the parts in the Visaton set "Conga". Its using the drivers you want and a customized crossover.
CONGA | Visaton
Not very important. If your enclosure is very tall (4x or more) compared to width/depth then it can start to make a difference.
is the "Visaton HW 3/130, 8 ohm, 300 / 4000 Hz" crossover designed for these specific drivers? Hopefully the answer is yes...
Assuming "yes", then it is important to keep the front face of the speaker (the baffle) the same as the manufacturer plans. The designer expects the 3 drivers to be arranged in a certain way, at a certain distance from the floor.
You seem to be in luck!
There is a Visaton Kit using exactly those three drivers, and it is rather good by all accounts...
CONGA | Visaton
Severely fussy crossover, IMO. I see no need for LCR bass impedance correction with most amplifiers. But a metal driver midrange makes for crossover correction of metal breakup.
What you need is Visaton Boxsim for Windows:
Software | Visaton
I have no idea how compatible Boxsim 2.0 is with a Projekte file for version 1.2 but you can try importing it to the projekte folder. Otherwise everything must be done from scratch.
Conga – Boxsim Projektdatenbank
The off-the-shelf HW 3/130 NG crossover might work with some considerable tweaking.
HW 3/130 NG - 8 Ohm | Visaton
It's a higher bass to mid crossover point than the Conga, but that is a matter of taste quite often.
Get that sim running. 🙂
Any queries, get back to us. Personally I'd put a 3dB downward slope on a three-way. Flat and Monitor-like is a bit hard to my ears. Boxsim is not very good at tapered cabinets. A straight box might be preferable.
There is a Visaton Kit using exactly those three drivers, and it is rather good by all accounts...
CONGA | Visaton
Severely fussy crossover, IMO. I see no need for LCR bass impedance correction with most amplifiers. But a metal driver midrange makes for crossover correction of metal breakup.
What you need is Visaton Boxsim for Windows:
Software | Visaton
I have no idea how compatible Boxsim 2.0 is with a Projekte file for version 1.2 but you can try importing it to the projekte folder. Otherwise everything must be done from scratch.
Conga – Boxsim Projektdatenbank
The off-the-shelf HW 3/130 NG crossover might work with some considerable tweaking.
HW 3/130 NG - 8 Ohm | Visaton
It's a higher bass to mid crossover point than the Conga, but that is a matter of taste quite often.
Get that sim running. 🙂
Any queries, get back to us. Personally I'd put a 3dB downward slope on a three-way. Flat and Monitor-like is a bit hard to my ears. Boxsim is not very good at tapered cabinets. A straight box might be preferable.
Visaton's kit crossovers are already assembled, a big plus for a newbie (or even an oldbie)!
As said above, I would avoid generic crossovers
Good luck with your project!
Geoff
Geoff
As said above, I would avoid generic crossovers
Good luck with your project!
Geoff
Geoff
Yewww
Thanks for the replies , sheesh dunno how I missed that speaker section in visaton website
Them conga towers are pretty neat but very square and boxy
Looking a bit further down are the vox 253 mht ... I would imagine they would be very similar in performance to the congas
Doing a DIY build I think I can pretty them up to fit the decor
Noted on the crossovers , not something I wanted to make but really not a big deal to solder them up
Thanks for the replies , sheesh dunno how I missed that speaker section in visaton website
Them conga towers are pretty neat but very square and boxy
Looking a bit further down are the vox 253 mht ... I would imagine they would be very similar in performance to the congas
Doing a DIY build I think I can pretty them up to fit the decor
Noted on the crossovers , not something I wanted to make but really not a big deal to solder them up
Cliff, if that is your name. What country you in?
Reason I ask is Wilmslow Audio do complete kits with cabinets... Like the Vox MHT.
VISATON SPEAKER KITS
If you are building your own cabinets, of course you can change things.
TBH, I am not overly keen on some of these Vox designs. Impedance is too low! 3 ohms in avoidable places. Using BassMids where 2dB louder mids are preferable.
Suchergebnisse fur „vox 253“ – Boxsim Projektdatenbank
AL 130 - 8 Ohm | Visaton
AL 130 M - 8 Ohm | Visaton
I like the idea of two mids with a ribbon-type tweeter. The MHT 12. But the more regular type of mid would work with the off the shelf HW 3/130 NG. You'd use two 4 ohms in series.
Visaton Hifi Drive Units – Tagged "Impedance_4 Ohm" – Impact Audio
I'd get modelling. World's your oyster on basses. Even the WS 17 E-4 is quite respected round here. Closed box driver. Two in series would be good, and no rebate needed. A WWMTM. With ribbon tweeter. Makes for good dispersion. And less effective power to the room for the same SPL.
Ah, well just woolgathering... 😀
Reason I ask is Wilmslow Audio do complete kits with cabinets... Like the Vox MHT.
VISATON SPEAKER KITS
If you are building your own cabinets, of course you can change things.
TBH, I am not overly keen on some of these Vox designs. Impedance is too low! 3 ohms in avoidable places. Using BassMids where 2dB louder mids are preferable.
Suchergebnisse fur „vox 253“ – Boxsim Projektdatenbank
AL 130 - 8 Ohm | Visaton
AL 130 M - 8 Ohm | Visaton
I like the idea of two mids with a ribbon-type tweeter. The MHT 12. But the more regular type of mid would work with the off the shelf HW 3/130 NG. You'd use two 4 ohms in series.
Visaton Hifi Drive Units – Tagged "Impedance_4 Ohm" – Impact Audio
I'd get modelling. World's your oyster on basses. Even the WS 17 E-4 is quite respected round here. Closed box driver. Two in series would be good, and no rebate needed. A WWMTM. With ribbon tweeter. Makes for good dispersion. And less effective power to the room for the same SPL.
Ah, well just woolgathering... 😀
im all the way down south in africa
im looking at importing everything, minus the enclosures obviously, from TLHP toutlehautparleur.com prices seem pretty good
im looking at importing everything, minus the enclosures obviously, from TLHP toutlehautparleur.com prices seem pretty good
next question ..
to make a center speaker , can i just copy the section that houses the 2x AL 130 and the 1x KE 25 SC and use that part of the crossover ?
would that be a good complement or overkill ?
to make a center speaker , can i just copy the section that houses the 2x AL 130 and the 1x KE 25 SC and use that part of the crossover ?
would that be a good complement or overkill ?
