I recently purchased the Hakko FR-301 to complete a job that would have been ~impossible~ to approach / complete other wise. I do not know how I lived without this well engineered tool. It was very intuitive to learn, use and get familiar with the sound it makes (know what it is doing) while in use.
The Audio Research amp I was re-capping has nearly 2 foot long, 2 mm thick PCB. I was concerned about damage to the traces trying to get enough heat into the joint / through hole. I gave up on braid 30 years ago, have (and used) multiple sized de-solder bulbs, have several types of "syringes" and the iron tipped de-soldering tool.
It made (for me) a daunting task a breeze! With the Hakko narrow tip, I was easily able to get between the 10 film bypass caps without damage to them. The finished result "looks factory", the most difficult part was in matching the solder *art* work done by the factory... A SUCCESS!
Lastly, had I gone with a 2 piece station, (I feel) I would have been hampered in positioning and movement... but worse, snagging components, possibly heat-sinks on FETS (the horror of it) The 301 was very ~ e a s y ~ to maneuver and hold steady, in tight spaces... a sweeping contrast to the 2 separate piece iron / syringe. It would have been impossible to bear hug the massive chassis and tell where both hands were... a potential mess.
The Audio Research amp I was re-capping has nearly 2 foot long, 2 mm thick PCB. I was concerned about damage to the traces trying to get enough heat into the joint / through hole. I gave up on braid 30 years ago, have (and used) multiple sized de-solder bulbs, have several types of "syringes" and the iron tipped de-soldering tool.
It made (for me) a daunting task a breeze! With the Hakko narrow tip, I was easily able to get between the 10 film bypass caps without damage to them. The finished result "looks factory", the most difficult part was in matching the solder *art* work done by the factory... A SUCCESS!
Lastly, had I gone with a 2 piece station, (I feel) I would have been hampered in positioning and movement... but worse, snagging components, possibly heat-sinks on FETS (the horror of it) The 301 was very ~ e a s y ~ to maneuver and hold steady, in tight spaces... a sweeping contrast to the 2 separate piece iron / syringe. It would have been impossible to bear hug the massive chassis and tell where both hands were... a potential mess.
I am with you and totally share your delight. I bought mine earlier this year and remembering how many boards I had damaged before, I wish I had bought it before - hence: best soldering tool I recently purchased (together with - slightly later - a separate Hakko soldering station).
~ awesome ~
Thank you for sharing... Which station did you purchase?
That is on my list of things / tools, to consider.
Thank you for sharing... Which station did you purchase?
That is on my list of things / tools, to consider.
I've been using the 808 / 300 for around 15 years now (also have the Denon SC7000). A couple of tips:
i) Switch it off as soon as it's not needed. The tip plating can wear off quickly, so best only to heat when needed
ii) It always needs cleaning sooner than you think. Clean it as often as possible. After a while, the tips can clog up permanently. The more often you clean, the longer you will prevent this.
iii) If you find a particular joint troublesome, it's probably because the tip plating is worn. A new tip makes an enormous difference.
i) Switch it off as soon as it's not needed. The tip plating can wear off quickly, so best only to heat when needed
ii) It always needs cleaning sooner than you think. Clean it as often as possible. After a while, the tips can clog up permanently. The more often you clean, the longer you will prevent this.
iii) If you find a particular joint troublesome, it's probably because the tip plating is worn. A new tip makes an enormous difference.
My Hakko 470 setup took a dump recently, so I just pulled the trigger on a Thermaltronics (basically a Metcal) desoldering gun. We'll see how I like it. I already have an MX-500 base station, so the price ended up being similar to the FR-301.
That said, I can't imagine trying to do through-hole rework without a vacuum desoldering station.
That said, I can't imagine trying to do through-hole rework without a vacuum desoldering station.
I have A metcal MX-DS1 desoldering gun and it's lovely. IT can unsolder the biggest and most heatsunk parts I've thrown at it. The only downside is that the suction tube occasionally gets clogged. I also bought the cleanout tool which is super handy and solves the problem nicely.
I recently used it to unsolder the 11 twistlock caps from an ARC SP-6A and it was lovely.
Sheldon
I recently used it to unsolder the 11 twistlock caps from an ARC SP-6A and it was lovely.
Sheldon
If you have access to compressed air the Metcal/Thermatronics are really good. I use a TV coax switch to share the power supply between the solder and desolder handpieces.
A hot air tool can also deal with those intractable tasks. But expensive for limited use.
A hot air tool can also deal with those intractable tasks. But expensive for limited use.
So far the only thing I don't like about the DS-1 is that it's quite a bit louder than my old Hakko unit was. Not a huge deal, but the first time I used it both of my cats freaked out.
You shouldn't be using it on your cats. 😀
The Hakko solder sucker is one of the best tools I've ever bought.
The Hakko solder sucker is one of the best tools I've ever bought.
I am a Pace ST-75 with a SX-80 handpiece convert after using long time ago a Goot TP-100 gun which was also Japanese made.
Later in life, at work the used exclusively Pace desoldering stations with SX-70 handpieces with the glass filter chamber and Weller WESD51 soldering stations. That convinced me to get one for personal use and found a great deal in eBay in hardly used condition.
It is one of the best tools I got. I think a separate handpiece from the base is much better than all in one. YMMV.
Later in life, at work the used exclusively Pace desoldering stations with SX-70 handpieces with the glass filter chamber and Weller WESD51 soldering stations. That convinced me to get one for personal use and found a great deal in eBay in hardly used condition.
It is one of the best tools I got. I think a separate handpiece from the base is much better than all in one. YMMV.
I think I paid less than £20 for my Atten hot air tool. Loads of different sized tips. Good range of temperature.
It is good for removing SMD or in fact some through hole too.
I tend to use a solder sucker with silicon tube over the tip for good suction and copper braid and solder flux for component for component removal.
Oddly I use a large tip for SMD drag soldering.
Agreed. I have an SX-70 system stashed away ready to go, waiting for my Ungar 4624 with inline handpiece to die. But that thing is still going stong after 22 years of almost daily use.