I came across this DIY method from Humble home-made HiFI website. It's basically using veneer cement then stepping on it to get the veneer to stick on the wood, but I am a little skeptical. Just thought if anyone done it before.
Please see link right below.
Humble Homemade Hifi
Please see link right below.
Humble Homemade Hifi
No, I haven't done it like this, but if you are going to use the contact cement,
you should apply as much pressure as you can without making any damage.
Walking on the cabinet sounds silly imo and not very safe thing to do. I suggest
using ordinary clamps to firmly press a plate over venereed side and leave it like
this for some time. I have measured that one clamp can easily act as one
70 kg weight. A couple of them for a small 2 way cabinet should be more than
enough. Just be careful that your clamps do not act in the way they rotate
the whole plate and veneer away from the right spot.
you should apply as much pressure as you can without making any damage.
Walking on the cabinet sounds silly imo and not very safe thing to do. I suggest
using ordinary clamps to firmly press a plate over venereed side and leave it like
this for some time. I have measured that one clamp can easily act as one
70 kg weight. A couple of them for a small 2 way cabinet should be more than
enough. Just be careful that your clamps do not act in the way they rotate
the whole plate and veneer away from the right spot.
The only veneer method I have used is the iron on method.
The veneer already has glue on but needs heat to make it stick.
The veneer already has glue on but needs heat to make it stick.
I've tried the iron method but it may be too susceptible to bubbling. When the veneer is iron, it would heat up and expand. But then once finished and when left cooling down, small regions of the veneer will expand back out again which will buckle and will form bubbles. If the glue is strong enough then it can hold the potential bubbles back onto the substrate, but I have not had much success with it so far. I would get bubbles at a few spots. Some veneer types are easier for iron vs. others. I found that veneers that have lots of textures and heavily grained, the easier it is to form bubbles. Maples and a few others are not easy.
As far as just pressing down on the veneer using just regular glue, for small area surface it may be done (I've tested on a small piece of wood and it seems fine), but for large area, such as large bass cabinet, it might not be easy.
As far as just pressing down on the veneer using just regular glue, for small area surface it may be done (I've tested on a small piece of wood and it seems fine), but for large area, such as large bass cabinet, it might not be easy.
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IMO/experiences the preglued stuff is Difficult to use/gives sketchy results.
Home Depot product quality 🙂
White glue, painted onto where you want veneer to stick.. Then let dry overnight.
Use an Iron to heat glue the veneer.
Has worked for Furniture makers for Decades.
Although in fairness, most have a large platten Heat press.
Home Depot product quality 🙂
White glue, painted onto where you want veneer to stick.. Then let dry overnight.
Use an Iron to heat glue the veneer.
Has worked for Furniture makers for Decades.
Although in fairness, most have a large platten Heat press.
If you're building from scratch, then you can veneer before cutting your boards to size. A vacuum bag and polyurethane glue gives excellent results. Of course, you may choose to simply buy veneered plywood.
If you want to sheath old cabs with new veneer, then buy the thinnest veneered ply and use polyurethane glue, this time using clamping boards and plastic sheets.
If you want to sheath old cabs with new veneer, then buy the thinnest veneered ply and use polyurethane glue, this time using clamping boards and plastic sheets.
I did it like that when I was a teenager about 40 years ago and the first step is not stepping on it, but rolling it with a bottle, PVC pipe, rolling pin, something wide and sturdy. Works great and it never went loose.
Edit: I used contact glue, probably thesame kind of stuff as veneer cement. With this kind of glue, the strength with which it attaches is directly proportional to the force with which the two sides are pushed together, if only momentarily. Hammering makes sense.
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The only permanent way that I know to bond veneer in an epoxy like Unibond 800 or the veneer will eventually creep. This is especially true in humid climates. The new formula contact cements are not as strong as the old stuff but not as harmful to breathe.
Iron on Veneer / PVA glue method
An alternative to using contact cement when traditional press methods aren’t available is this method using white or yellow PVA glue and a standard household iron. This process will help you achieve a better glue bond and allows for the use of 10 mil paperbacked or raw veneer which can save you money. Follow these steps for best results.
Surface Preparation:
The surface or substrate you are veneering must be clean and flat. MDF, particle board or cabinet grade plywood are all satisfactory substrates. If applying veneer over a hardwood substrate, be sure all finish is removed and repair any gouges or scratches that might telegraph through the new veneer. It is not advisable to veneer over old veneer as the heat and moisture generated in this process may actually cause the old veneer to delaminate.
Glue Application:
You can use either white glue or yellow woodworking glue. It is recommended when you use yellow woodworking glue to use a type of glue that has and extended open time. With a brush or roller coat the back of the veneer and the substrate with glue. If you are rolling the glue a foam roller applicator works well. In almost all cases you should apply two coats of glue to the substrate because some of the first coat will soak into the surface. Be very careful not to get any glue on the face of the veneer as this will surely be a problem during the finishing process. Once applied, allow the glue to "skin up" or dry to the touch. A standard yellow glue will dry quicker so glues with an extended open time will greatly improve your end results . An important thing to remember is to apply even, thin coats of glue. Generally speaking, you want to end up with approximately 6 to 8 mils ( 1 mil = 1/1000” ) of glue thickness.
Ironing Veneer to Substrate:
Place the veneer on the substrate and position accordingly. Unlike contact cement which bonds on contact, the veneer can be allowed to make contact with the substrate while positioning. You want to cover the face of the iron so as not to leave any marks from the metal surface of the iron. A brown paper bag will work perfectly between the veneer and the face of the iron. An old bed sheet or cotton t-shirt work well for this purpose. With your iron set on a high heat setting, begin to iron the veneer from the center out using a slow and deliberate pace. Keep moderate downward pressure on the iron as you move it across the surface. Make sure you have covered every square inch of surface and examine the veneer for any loose spots that may not be bonded. If there are any areas that appear as though they aren’t bonded to the substrate, just go back over them with the iron. Allow this assembly to cool for 2 hours before trimming the veneer to finished size. Allow 24 hours for glue to fully cure before doing any finishing.
Finishing Veneer:
Veneer can be finished just like any hardwood. The first step is proper sanding starting with a medium grit paper followed by a fine grit paper. This can be done with an electric sander if you are confident enough or by hand if you are not. Remove all sanding residue with a brush or tack cloth. From this point you can either stain the wood or finish with a clear finish. For finishing tips consult our website at Wood Veneer: The Expert in Exotic Wood and Burl Veneer | Oakwood Veneer Company or call with specific questions at (800) 426-6018.
Oakwood Veneer Company
1830 Stephenson Hwy.
Troy, MI 48083
(248) 720-0288
Toll Free (800) 426-6018
Wood Veneer: The Expert in Exotic Wood and Burl Veneer | Oakwood Veneer Company
An alternative to using contact cement when traditional press methods aren’t available is this method using white or yellow PVA glue and a standard household iron. This process will help you achieve a better glue bond and allows for the use of 10 mil paperbacked or raw veneer which can save you money. Follow these steps for best results.
Surface Preparation:
The surface or substrate you are veneering must be clean and flat. MDF, particle board or cabinet grade plywood are all satisfactory substrates. If applying veneer over a hardwood substrate, be sure all finish is removed and repair any gouges or scratches that might telegraph through the new veneer. It is not advisable to veneer over old veneer as the heat and moisture generated in this process may actually cause the old veneer to delaminate.
Glue Application:
You can use either white glue or yellow woodworking glue. It is recommended when you use yellow woodworking glue to use a type of glue that has and extended open time. With a brush or roller coat the back of the veneer and the substrate with glue. If you are rolling the glue a foam roller applicator works well. In almost all cases you should apply two coats of glue to the substrate because some of the first coat will soak into the surface. Be very careful not to get any glue on the face of the veneer as this will surely be a problem during the finishing process. Once applied, allow the glue to "skin up" or dry to the touch. A standard yellow glue will dry quicker so glues with an extended open time will greatly improve your end results . An important thing to remember is to apply even, thin coats of glue. Generally speaking, you want to end up with approximately 6 to 8 mils ( 1 mil = 1/1000” ) of glue thickness.
Ironing Veneer to Substrate:
Place the veneer on the substrate and position accordingly. Unlike contact cement which bonds on contact, the veneer can be allowed to make contact with the substrate while positioning. You want to cover the face of the iron so as not to leave any marks from the metal surface of the iron. A brown paper bag will work perfectly between the veneer and the face of the iron. An old bed sheet or cotton t-shirt work well for this purpose. With your iron set on a high heat setting, begin to iron the veneer from the center out using a slow and deliberate pace. Keep moderate downward pressure on the iron as you move it across the surface. Make sure you have covered every square inch of surface and examine the veneer for any loose spots that may not be bonded. If there are any areas that appear as though they aren’t bonded to the substrate, just go back over them with the iron. Allow this assembly to cool for 2 hours before trimming the veneer to finished size. Allow 24 hours for glue to fully cure before doing any finishing.
Finishing Veneer:
Veneer can be finished just like any hardwood. The first step is proper sanding starting with a medium grit paper followed by a fine grit paper. This can be done with an electric sander if you are confident enough or by hand if you are not. Remove all sanding residue with a brush or tack cloth. From this point you can either stain the wood or finish with a clear finish. For finishing tips consult our website at Wood Veneer: The Expert in Exotic Wood and Burl Veneer | Oakwood Veneer Company or call with specific questions at (800) 426-6018.
Oakwood Veneer Company
1830 Stephenson Hwy.
Troy, MI 48083
(248) 720-0288
Toll Free (800) 426-6018
Wood Veneer: The Expert in Exotic Wood and Burl Veneer | Oakwood Veneer Company
Here is a second
Iron On Veneer / PVA Glue Method or Contact cement solvent based
An alternative to using a tack contact cement when traditional press methods aren’t available is this method using white, yellow PVA glue or contact cement and a standard household iron. This process will help you achieve a better glue bond and allows for the use of 10 mil paperbacked or raw veneer which can save you money. Follow these steps for best results.
Surface Preparation
The surface or substrate you are veneering must be clean and flat. MDF, particle board or cabinet grade plywood are all satisfactory substrates. If applying veneer over a hardwood substrate, be sure all finish is removed and repair any gouges or scratches that might telegraph through the new veneer. It is not advisable to veneer over old veneer as the heat and moisture generated in this process may actually cause the old veneer to delaminate.
Glue Application
You can use either white glue, yellow woodworking glue or solvent contact cement. It is recommended when you use yellow woodworking glue to thin it with 10% water to allow easier spreading as it can be very thick. With a brush or roller coat the back of the veneer and the substrate with glue. If you are rolling the glue a foam roller applicator works well but not for the contact cement. You may have to find a roller from a paint supply store which is designed for contact cement use. In almost all cases you should apply two coats of glue to the substrate because some of the first coat will soak into the surface. Be very careful not to get any glue on the face of the veneer as this will surely be a problem during the finishing process. Once applied, allow the glue to dry to the touch. The contact cement will probably dry quicker but as a general rule, wait 20 to 30 minutes. An important thing to remember is to apply even, thin coats of glue. Generally speaking, you want to end up with approximately 6 to 8 mils ( 1 mil = 1/1000” ) of glue thickness.
Ironing Veneer to Substrate
Make sure your glue on the veneer and cabinet or other surface is dye not tacky but 100% dry. The glue must be 100% dry on both surfaces for this method of applying veneer with a iron on method to work. Place the veneer on the substrate and position the grain direction accordingly. Unlike WET contact cement which bonds on contact, the veneer can be allowed to make contact with the substrate while positioning the veneer. If you use contact cement solvent based, let the contact dry 100% the same as white or yellow glue. This method will work with all three glues if the glues are dry 100%. Use a lightweight cotton material between the veneer and the face of the iron. An old bed sheet or cotton t-shirt work well for this purpose. With your iron set on a high heat setting, begin to iron the veneer from the center out using a slow and deliberate pace. The cloth should prevent the hot iron from scorching the face of the veneer. Keep moderate downward pressure on the iron as you move it across the surface. Make sure you have covered every square inch of surface and examine the veneer for any loose spots that may not be bonded. If there are any areas that appear as though they aren’t bonded to the substrate, just go back over them with the iron. Allow this assembly to cool for 2 hours before trimming the veneer to finished size. Allow 24 hours for glue to fully cure before doing any finishing.
Finishing Veneer:
Veneer can be finished just like any hardwood. The first step is proper sanding starting with a medium grit paper followed by a fine grit paper. This can be done with an electric sander if you are confident enough or by hand if you are not. Remove all sanding residue with a brush or tack cloth. From this point you can either stain the wood or finish with a clear finish.
Veneering with Paper Backed Veneer Stock Before using the iron-on method to attach paper backed veneer with Titebond’s wood glue, I emailed Titebond for instructions, and asked about the differences when using this method with Titebond I, II, and III. It turns out, there are significant application differences between their various glues. Also, there is a disclaimer, as they have not done long-term testing with this this method. According to a representative, there are no reported failures when applied correctly using glue that is within its usable shelf life. Though, two issues that one might run into are 1) failure to heat the glue to the correct temperature and 2) exceeding the reactivation window. Most instructions on the net just say “let dry completely” but say nothing about any activation window. For Titebond II and III, this is only 12 hours. Finally, one more disclaimer from the technical representatives: [There is] the possibility that the adhesive holding the paper to the back of the veneer may be damaged by the heat. If it is merely softened, reversibly like our glues, then it ought to reform that bond as the assembly cools, with no problems. If, however, it is damaged or degraded, the customer could end up with our glue anchoring the backing to the core, but the veneer itself loose from the backing. With that in mind, I might pass along our lack of knowledge of the paper to veneer bond, and suggest that the customer test the veneer involved before attempting a large project. Instructions for the iron-on veneering method:
Materials/Equipment needed:
• iron • veneer • Veneer tape • PVA glue (Titebond White Glue), Aliphatic resin glue (Titebond Original Wood Glue), or PVAC glue (Titebond II Premium Wood Glue, Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue) • Paint roller or paint brush (used to apply the glue) • Spray bottle containing water (optional) • Shellac (3 lb-cut) (optional) • Paper towel (optional)
Steps: 1. Before applying the glue: · Applying a coat of shellac to seal the back side of the veneer will prevent bleed-through. Allow the shellac to completely dry before applying the glue. This step is optional. · Apply tape to any cracks in the veneer. This will help to prevent bleed-through. Hold the veneer up to the light to see all of them. This step is optional. 2. Applying the glue: · Apply a heavy coat of the glue to the back side of the veneer and the core material. · Spray the face side of the veneer with water to avoid curling of the veneer. This step is optional. 3. Allow the glue to completely dry. 4. Iron the veneer onto the core: · Place veneer on the core with some overhang. Limit the overhang to 1/8”. · Use iron to reactivate the glue (see table below) Place a paper towel between the iron and the veneer to avoid scorching the veneer Work from the center out Press firmly, with steady pressure Move slowly If veneer has curled, blistered or bubbled, use the steam function on the iron to flatten out the veneer
Type of glue Timeframe Temperature to reactivate Setting on iron (this will differ on different irons) Titebond Product
PVA (white glue) Can be reactivated indefinitely Approximately 180°F Delicate Titebond White Glue, Titebond All purpose White Glue
Aliphatic resin glue (yellow glues) Can be reactivated for approximately 7 days Approximately 250°F Wool Titebond Original Wood Glue, Titebond Dark
PVAC (catalyzed PVA) Can be reactivated for 12 hours Approximately 350°F Cotton/linen Titebond II Premium Wood Glue, Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue
Iron On Veneer / PVA Glue Method or Contact cement solvent based
An alternative to using a tack contact cement when traditional press methods aren’t available is this method using white, yellow PVA glue or contact cement and a standard household iron. This process will help you achieve a better glue bond and allows for the use of 10 mil paperbacked or raw veneer which can save you money. Follow these steps for best results.
Surface Preparation
The surface or substrate you are veneering must be clean and flat. MDF, particle board or cabinet grade plywood are all satisfactory substrates. If applying veneer over a hardwood substrate, be sure all finish is removed and repair any gouges or scratches that might telegraph through the new veneer. It is not advisable to veneer over old veneer as the heat and moisture generated in this process may actually cause the old veneer to delaminate.
Glue Application
You can use either white glue, yellow woodworking glue or solvent contact cement. It is recommended when you use yellow woodworking glue to thin it with 10% water to allow easier spreading as it can be very thick. With a brush or roller coat the back of the veneer and the substrate with glue. If you are rolling the glue a foam roller applicator works well but not for the contact cement. You may have to find a roller from a paint supply store which is designed for contact cement use. In almost all cases you should apply two coats of glue to the substrate because some of the first coat will soak into the surface. Be very careful not to get any glue on the face of the veneer as this will surely be a problem during the finishing process. Once applied, allow the glue to dry to the touch. The contact cement will probably dry quicker but as a general rule, wait 20 to 30 minutes. An important thing to remember is to apply even, thin coats of glue. Generally speaking, you want to end up with approximately 6 to 8 mils ( 1 mil = 1/1000” ) of glue thickness.
Ironing Veneer to Substrate
Make sure your glue on the veneer and cabinet or other surface is dye not tacky but 100% dry. The glue must be 100% dry on both surfaces for this method of applying veneer with a iron on method to work. Place the veneer on the substrate and position the grain direction accordingly. Unlike WET contact cement which bonds on contact, the veneer can be allowed to make contact with the substrate while positioning the veneer. If you use contact cement solvent based, let the contact dry 100% the same as white or yellow glue. This method will work with all three glues if the glues are dry 100%. Use a lightweight cotton material between the veneer and the face of the iron. An old bed sheet or cotton t-shirt work well for this purpose. With your iron set on a high heat setting, begin to iron the veneer from the center out using a slow and deliberate pace. The cloth should prevent the hot iron from scorching the face of the veneer. Keep moderate downward pressure on the iron as you move it across the surface. Make sure you have covered every square inch of surface and examine the veneer for any loose spots that may not be bonded. If there are any areas that appear as though they aren’t bonded to the substrate, just go back over them with the iron. Allow this assembly to cool for 2 hours before trimming the veneer to finished size. Allow 24 hours for glue to fully cure before doing any finishing.
Finishing Veneer:
Veneer can be finished just like any hardwood. The first step is proper sanding starting with a medium grit paper followed by a fine grit paper. This can be done with an electric sander if you are confident enough or by hand if you are not. Remove all sanding residue with a brush or tack cloth. From this point you can either stain the wood or finish with a clear finish.
Veneering with Paper Backed Veneer Stock Before using the iron-on method to attach paper backed veneer with Titebond’s wood glue, I emailed Titebond for instructions, and asked about the differences when using this method with Titebond I, II, and III. It turns out, there are significant application differences between their various glues. Also, there is a disclaimer, as they have not done long-term testing with this this method. According to a representative, there are no reported failures when applied correctly using glue that is within its usable shelf life. Though, two issues that one might run into are 1) failure to heat the glue to the correct temperature and 2) exceeding the reactivation window. Most instructions on the net just say “let dry completely” but say nothing about any activation window. For Titebond II and III, this is only 12 hours. Finally, one more disclaimer from the technical representatives: [There is] the possibility that the adhesive holding the paper to the back of the veneer may be damaged by the heat. If it is merely softened, reversibly like our glues, then it ought to reform that bond as the assembly cools, with no problems. If, however, it is damaged or degraded, the customer could end up with our glue anchoring the backing to the core, but the veneer itself loose from the backing. With that in mind, I might pass along our lack of knowledge of the paper to veneer bond, and suggest that the customer test the veneer involved before attempting a large project. Instructions for the iron-on veneering method:
Materials/Equipment needed:
• iron • veneer • Veneer tape • PVA glue (Titebond White Glue), Aliphatic resin glue (Titebond Original Wood Glue), or PVAC glue (Titebond II Premium Wood Glue, Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue) • Paint roller or paint brush (used to apply the glue) • Spray bottle containing water (optional) • Shellac (3 lb-cut) (optional) • Paper towel (optional)
Steps: 1. Before applying the glue: · Applying a coat of shellac to seal the back side of the veneer will prevent bleed-through. Allow the shellac to completely dry before applying the glue. This step is optional. · Apply tape to any cracks in the veneer. This will help to prevent bleed-through. Hold the veneer up to the light to see all of them. This step is optional. 2. Applying the glue: · Apply a heavy coat of the glue to the back side of the veneer and the core material. · Spray the face side of the veneer with water to avoid curling of the veneer. This step is optional. 3. Allow the glue to completely dry. 4. Iron the veneer onto the core: · Place veneer on the core with some overhang. Limit the overhang to 1/8”. · Use iron to reactivate the glue (see table below) Place a paper towel between the iron and the veneer to avoid scorching the veneer Work from the center out Press firmly, with steady pressure Move slowly If veneer has curled, blistered or bubbled, use the steam function on the iron to flatten out the veneer
Type of glue Timeframe Temperature to reactivate Setting on iron (this will differ on different irons) Titebond Product
PVA (white glue) Can be reactivated indefinitely Approximately 180°F Delicate Titebond White Glue, Titebond All purpose White Glue
Aliphatic resin glue (yellow glues) Can be reactivated for approximately 7 days Approximately 250°F Wool Titebond Original Wood Glue, Titebond Dark
PVAC (catalyzed PVA) Can be reactivated for 12 hours Approximately 350°F Cotton/linen Titebond II Premium Wood Glue, Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue
Andy, if you're looking for the ultimate veneering method, then ignore everything related to ironing it on - same for contact cement..
Iron On, Contact cement, paperback veneer, white glue etc etc.. all of these are poor choices and I've used them all in the early days. - never to return. I want perfection🙂
LEARN COLD PRESSED VENEER APPLICATION.. You will feel good about the professional results and you will be set up with the right skills for all future projects.. You need clamps, veneer glue and roller below.. Press the veneer, as shown in photo. Much better appearance with raw veneer, veneer saw required + Veneer tape..
There is more details to getting it all exact - I can give a complete tutorial for anyone interested.. Can discuss larger surfaces, more clamps required.. The biggest investment is the clamps..
http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Better-Bond-Veneer-Glue-Color-Medium.html
Veneer Glue Roller - VeneerSupplies.com
Two Cherries? German Veneer Saw: $13.95
Iron On, Contact cement, paperback veneer, white glue etc etc.. all of these are poor choices and I've used them all in the early days. - never to return. I want perfection🙂
LEARN COLD PRESSED VENEER APPLICATION.. You will feel good about the professional results and you will be set up with the right skills for all future projects.. You need clamps, veneer glue and roller below.. Press the veneer, as shown in photo. Much better appearance with raw veneer, veneer saw required + Veneer tape..
There is more details to getting it all exact - I can give a complete tutorial for anyone interested.. Can discuss larger surfaces, more clamps required.. The biggest investment is the clamps..
http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Better-Bond-Veneer-Glue-Color-Medium.html
Veneer Glue Roller - VeneerSupplies.com
Two Cherries? German Veneer Saw: $13.95
Attachments
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I, along with a few other DIYers have use the yellow glue / iron-on method for hundreds of enclosures for well over 15yrs. As RAW details, surface prep is crucial, as flexible paper back or raw veneers are thin enough to telegraph any perfections. And of course, uniform application of glue to both surfaces is important, as starved areas can result in poor adhesion / bubbles. I personally don't bother with a protective cloth barrier, or worry about the surface scorching or heat crazing - they'll sand out easily.
I would caution against allowing yellow wood glue to cure too long past dry-track stage
Joel - cold pressing is great for flat surfaces, but one of the advantages of iron on method is the ability to veneer radiused faces / edges or even fold around beveled long edges ( I do that a lot). Of course, you could take cold pressing one step further and go for vacuum bagging - 15lbs / in^2 is pretty decent amount of clamping force, but there are constraints as to the size and shape of enclosures.
I would caution against allowing yellow wood glue to cure too long past dry-track stage
Joel - cold pressing is great for flat surfaces, but one of the advantages of iron on method is the ability to veneer radiused faces / edges or even fold around beveled long edges ( I do that a lot). Of course, you could take cold pressing one step further and go for vacuum bagging - 15lbs / in^2 is pretty decent amount of clamping force, but there are constraints as to the size and shape of enclosures.
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I agree Joel. Plain old Titebond wood glue and plenty of clamps is the best solution. It is more forgiving than contact cement (you can still move things around a bit after that first contact) and a decently thick layer of glue will also help with any last little surface imperfections on the base material.
Hi Chris,
Yeah, Curved surfaces are more work for me.. I made a press(with ratchet strap) to match the profile of a turntable plinth.. I have spherical tweeter pod design..Working out method to press veneer to them, will try ratchet straps around 3ply Baltic birch that is moistened and then shaped to substrate profile..
As pFranzen mentioned, the veneer glues are also excellent gap fillers.. Better Bond glue also dries hard and machines off like wood and with raw veneer the edges are near invisible, can make the edge look like the veneer is wrapped around it.. The glue is colored and with pressure the glue bleeds through porous veneers but the glue is sanded off and doesn't show at all..
In the end the veneer is impossible to peel off the substrate.. With Birch ply the
ply layers will separate easier than the veneer from substrate..
Yeah, Curved surfaces are more work for me.. I made a press(with ratchet strap) to match the profile of a turntable plinth.. I have spherical tweeter pod design..Working out method to press veneer to them, will try ratchet straps around 3ply Baltic birch that is moistened and then shaped to substrate profile..
As pFranzen mentioned, the veneer glues are also excellent gap fillers.. Better Bond glue also dries hard and machines off like wood and with raw veneer the edges are near invisible, can make the edge look like the veneer is wrapped around it.. The glue is colored and with pressure the glue bleeds through porous veneers but the glue is sanded off and doesn't show at all..
In the end the veneer is impossible to peel off the substrate.. With Birch ply the
ply layers will separate easier than the veneer from substrate..
Attachments
So many different opinions ... My experience with iron-on has not really worked out well for me. I found that using tite-bond then clamp down the veneer is a good alternative.
I found this vid using cement and it just looks too good to be true.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BeFzAPik_68
I think the problem with using iron method is that when you apply heat to the veneer, it would shrink. When you're done and when the veneer cooled down, certain spots would expand again which then cause the much dreaded bubbles. Also tite-bond is not meant to be used that way. It does get reactivated with heat but most of its adhesion probably gone.
The other negative about iron-on is that when you apply the heat onto the veneer, the veneer surface will be partially cooked which will bind the grains together (although subtle) that will make it look a little plasticky. The effect is subtle but I think it's there.
Also I think iron may work on smaller surface or a certain type of veneer, but as a general method, I would not recommend it.
So I have two options:
1. Using the old fashion tite bond then just clamp it down. For large surface, I would just clamp as I go along one part to the next. I worked out well enough for me on a few test pieces with a rather large surface.
2. Using the cement like on the video. I haven't tried this yet but hopefully soon.
I found this vid using cement and it just looks too good to be true.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BeFzAPik_68
I think the problem with using iron method is that when you apply heat to the veneer, it would shrink. When you're done and when the veneer cooled down, certain spots would expand again which then cause the much dreaded bubbles. Also tite-bond is not meant to be used that way. It does get reactivated with heat but most of its adhesion probably gone.
The other negative about iron-on is that when you apply the heat onto the veneer, the veneer surface will be partially cooked which will bind the grains together (although subtle) that will make it look a little plasticky. The effect is subtle but I think it's there.
Also I think iron may work on smaller surface or a certain type of veneer, but as a general method, I would not recommend it.
So I have two options:
1. Using the old fashion tite bond then just clamp it down. For large surface, I would just clamp as I go along one part to the next. I worked out well enough for me on a few test pieces with a rather large surface.
2. Using the cement like on the video. I haven't tried this yet but hopefully soon.
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Nonsense..
PVA (white glue using Heat) has worked well for Furniture makers for Decades !
Dead simple and minimum Fuss.
Although (again.. A hot press/platten does ensure consistently Perfect result, Not a usual DIY workshop tool tho)
IF it doesn't work for you It's neither the technique nor the glues Fault 😉
What IS mickey Mouse are the Preglued Veeners bought at places like Home Despot.
IF afraid of Heat..Vacu bagging is Surprisingly simple. One can even use a Shop vac or a repurposed Refrigerator Compressor.
Some medium weight Poly and Acoustic goop as sealant to build a onetime use Vac Bag.
Point is: It's all a skill requiring exercise.
Price of admission 🙂
PVA (white glue using Heat) has worked well for Furniture makers for Decades !
Dead simple and minimum Fuss.
Although (again.. A hot press/platten does ensure consistently Perfect result, Not a usual DIY workshop tool tho)
IF it doesn't work for you It's neither the technique nor the glues Fault 😉
What IS mickey Mouse are the Preglued Veeners bought at places like Home Despot.
IF afraid of Heat..Vacu bagging is Surprisingly simple. One can even use a Shop vac or a repurposed Refrigerator Compressor.
Some medium weight Poly and Acoustic goop as sealant to build a onetime use Vac Bag.
Point is: It's all a skill requiring exercise.
Price of admission 🙂
I don't know about furniture makers, but I used the PVA glue + household iron method just yesterday and it worked extremely well.
I coated both the cabinet and the back of the veneer, let it dry for about 30 minutes, then ironed it on. I put a paper bag between the iron than the veneer to protect against scratches (tip - Make sure the bag is plain paper with nothing written on it or the color of the writing will end up on your veneer. Does clean off though...whew).
My speakers are 36" x 28". This was the first time I ever did anything with veneer. Youtube has a few videos showing this method.
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