Quote:
Originally Posted by awkwardbydesign
"I think you need help designing a new wife!"
If you are going to criticise MY post, at least have the courtesy to quote all of it. I added a big grin, so making it obvious I was joking. Well, it should have been obvious! And followed that by wishing him good luck. I had already made a suggestion to help in a previous post.
Perhaps you don't understand humour in English?
You must have a feel for what she might like or accept to fit whatever décor they will sit in. Take the time to draw up sample pictures of your different designs get her attention and she what she has to say.
I'm going through the same process wanting to build a pair of WE SATO horns. So far the wife has seen them and heard them on You Tube through a state of the art computer audio system. Her response is do we really need them of course we do and she knows they will be beautiful. Most women are the same that way one of the many reasons why we love them.
I'm going through the same process wanting to build a pair of WE SATO horns. So far the wife has seen them and heard them on You Tube through a state of the art computer audio system. Her response is do we really need them of course we do and she knows they will be beautiful. Most women are the same that way one of the many reasons why we love them.
Hello onni --
As a traditional 2-channel listener, modifier & music lover during 4.5 decades, let me suggest an equivalent question: "Help me find a transmission the wife will like."
Instantaneous answers from everyone here at the Forum would be something like "What else is on and in the vehicle ???"
Point being, of course, that speakers are only a fraction of the system. Other components and conditions have a major impact on how transparent and fatigueless is music coming from the speakers.
The printed and webbed paths are endless that you can take from here to explore that quest, so I will not attempt to suggest them. But here are some principles and recommendations which stand the "test of time" in ultra-fidelity circles:
1. Simplicity in the total signal path -- there is no part as good as NO PART, and every additional chassis the signal goes through drains life out of tunes.
2. Wire matters -- interconnects, cable, power cords -- all influence sound, so find a purchase resource willing to do "try before you buy" arrangements.
3. Filtration of household A/C (the 60 Hz sinewave) makes a huge improvement in reducing grunge from other devices & appliances sharing a breaker panel.
4. Tweeters, midranges, woofers are "control me please" creatures; changing the usual mono-amp config to bi-amping [ NOT "bi-wiring" ] will unmistakably raise detail retrieval & dynamic scale.
5. Giving each set of drivers its own current source -- with dedicated separate crossovers -- also lets the ultra-complex 20 to 20K signal be processed by separated boards rather than one.
6. The quality of inductors / caps / resistors / PCB / solder in those X-overs really shows up in listening; if you end up building your own speakers, scrimpeth not for parts.
I guess all of these remarks can be summed as "everything counts".... Just ask your wife !!
As a traditional 2-channel listener, modifier & music lover during 4.5 decades, let me suggest an equivalent question: "Help me find a transmission the wife will like."
Instantaneous answers from everyone here at the Forum would be something like "What else is on and in the vehicle ???"
Point being, of course, that speakers are only a fraction of the system. Other components and conditions have a major impact on how transparent and fatigueless is music coming from the speakers.
The printed and webbed paths are endless that you can take from here to explore that quest, so I will not attempt to suggest them. But here are some principles and recommendations which stand the "test of time" in ultra-fidelity circles:
1. Simplicity in the total signal path -- there is no part as good as NO PART, and every additional chassis the signal goes through drains life out of tunes.
2. Wire matters -- interconnects, cable, power cords -- all influence sound, so find a purchase resource willing to do "try before you buy" arrangements.
3. Filtration of household A/C (the 60 Hz sinewave) makes a huge improvement in reducing grunge from other devices & appliances sharing a breaker panel.
4. Tweeters, midranges, woofers are "control me please" creatures; changing the usual mono-amp config to bi-amping [ NOT "bi-wiring" ] will unmistakably raise detail retrieval & dynamic scale.
5. Giving each set of drivers its own current source -- with dedicated separate crossovers -- also lets the ultra-complex 20 to 20K signal be processed by separated boards rather than one.
6. The quality of inductors / caps / resistors / PCB / solder in those X-overs really shows up in listening; if you end up building your own speakers, scrimpeth not for parts.
I guess all of these remarks can be summed as "everything counts".... Just ask your wife !!
Interesting! Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the support.
I'll try to keep these thing in mind during the process.
I'm currently trying to come up with a design I can build that somehow captures the feeling of the Scandyna speakers, as my wife seems to like them.
One 280 mm sphere containing a 8" woofer, one 200 mm sphere containing a 4" midrange and one 52 mm pipe containing a tweeter (NE19VTT).
Maybe it would look better with a smaller midrange, so all drivers were in line.
(It is a design that is supposed to be placed up on the console thats hiding 12" subwoofers.)
Here is the beginning of a MTM (or 2.5 way) using 2 5" woofers and a compact tweeter (ND16FA):
No legs yet, I felt that the height of the tweeter might be a problem if the legs aren't very long. Maybe this idea could be used for an on-wall solution?
/Anton
I have to give you, in advance, April's "Spectacular Design" award -- actually I just created in tribute to these graphics...
When you get something which your wife likes, GET GOING IMMEDIATELY IN PRODUCTION, DUDE !!! And let us impoverished schlubs here on DIYA know when the IPO will be ready.
When you get something which your wife likes, GET GOING IMMEDIATELY IN PRODUCTION, DUDE !!! And let us impoverished schlubs here on DIYA know when the IPO will be ready.
Hi again onni -- one more post to close out this weekend ...
I would love to have your wife write to us DIYA members here, telling us of herself: field of work, hobbies, achievements, family life, favorite kinds of music & groups.
ALSO can she express what it is about the speakers in your home previously that has disappointed her ?
I would love to have your wife write to us DIYA members here, telling us of herself: field of work, hobbies, achievements, family life, favorite kinds of music & groups.
ALSO can she express what it is about the speakers in your home previously that has disappointed her ?
Thanks
My english is however not good enough to decipher the last part, what's IPO?
I read SB29RDNC as SB29RDC and made this:
280 mm sphere.
That looks kinda nuts... Then I realized it was the wrong tweeter :S Heres with the correct tweeter:
In room:
And with the Vifa NE19VTT:
I have tried to reduce the distance between tweeter and woofer (for acoustic reasons) but maybe that makes the aesthetics worse? Kinda cute, but still has the problem of a tweeter that is quite close to the floor (about 70 cm).
Two 280 mm spheres (with 5" woofers)
I don't think that she is interested enough to write something herself, should I try?
I have no idea what this means.
/Anton
Sorry, I did not see the smiley! I take my post back!
An IPO for DIYaudio? Nice!
Rather than an IPO of stock-- involving the pencil neck geeks who are salaried by our taxpayer dollars at the Securities Exchange Commission, DIYaudio should simply print its own currency !!
Especially now that BitCoin is having a lot of trouble. We here on the Forum could call our money " BitElectron ".
When Nelson Pass is not wasting his time inventing the 599th version of a transistor amp, he can rent a Ford Pinto (one that managed not to get incinerated by fire back in the day) and go dumpster diving for discarded gravure presses.
Then SY can pump out the water in his basement, throw away that cheap ping pong table he hustles teenagers out of their allowances with, plug in the press, create some nifty plate designs for hundred dollar bills via GIMP, and distribute them to get us all rich
Especially now that BitCoin is having a lot of trouble. We here on the Forum could call our money " BitElectron ".
When Nelson Pass is not wasting his time inventing the 599th version of a transistor amp, he can rent a Ford Pinto (one that managed not to get incinerated by fire back in the day) and go dumpster diving for discarded gravure presses.
Then SY can pump out the water in his basement, throw away that cheap ping pong table he hustles teenagers out of their allowances with, plug in the press, create some nifty plate designs for hundred dollar bills via GIMP, and distribute them to get us all rich
OK..OK... you love sphere speakers. Your wife will never kiss Mick Jagger Horn speakers.
well.... Remove the long rear red tube behind the tweeter.
The SB29RDNC-4 tweeter has a rear sealed chamber. If you cut off most of the tweeter's plastic mounting ring(I use a metal nibbler tool) you have the 56mm diameter rear chamber remaining, with no damage to functionality. I would try to physically mount this directly on top of the midrange to get the smallest C-to-C spacing and build a small piece to connect the tweeter to the sphere and midrange with the least interference to the sphere's ideal diffraction shape. Bondo? Clay? Epoxy? Keep the tweeter dome and midrange cone in the same physical plane to avoid reflections. The MiniDSP delay can be used to time align M - T.
Typically it is advisable to put the tweeter at 36"-42" seated ear level.
You could suspend the sphere from the ceiling with nylon fishing string.
You could build a "mic stand" base+pole to support the sphere at ear level.
You could fill a glass Jar with sand and put the sphere on-top.
You probably have many artistic ideas...
well.... Remove the long rear red tube behind the tweeter.
The SB29RDNC-4 tweeter has a rear sealed chamber. If you cut off most of the tweeter's plastic mounting ring(I use a metal nibbler tool) you have the 56mm diameter rear chamber remaining, with no damage to functionality. I would try to physically mount this directly on top of the midrange to get the smallest C-to-C spacing and build a small piece to connect the tweeter to the sphere and midrange with the least interference to the sphere's ideal diffraction shape. Bondo? Clay? Epoxy? Keep the tweeter dome and midrange cone in the same physical plane to avoid reflections. The MiniDSP delay can be used to time align M - T.
Typically it is advisable to put the tweeter at 36"-42" seated ear level.
You could suspend the sphere from the ceiling with nylon fishing string.
You could build a "mic stand" base+pole to support the sphere at ear level.
You could fill a glass Jar with sand and put the sphere on-top.
You probably have many artistic ideas...
Attachments
Minidsp can easily correct for the missing baffle reinforcement of bass frequencies. When we use subwoofer(s) below 100Hz eq needed is perhaps some 6-8dB. Try to find a midbass with high efficiency, perhaps a pro driver. Or at least one with high excursion capability. Enclosure should be closed or aperiodic to simplify things and appearance.
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The fish string idea I've tried, but she didn't like it. How do you propose I hang a (~6 kg) sphere using a mic stand?
Sure, spheres are nice, but the main reason I'm using them so far is that I know I can make a speaker using them that does not look like "a box". I'm trying to find other shapes that are easily achievable. I went back and looked at her ratings (post 173) and found Riva (by Davone). I figured it should be possible to replicate this somehow using PP/PVC pipe:
200 mm pipe. Straight top and bottom cuts. SB17NRX35 and SB29RDC behind grille.
Floorstander version:
250 mm pipe. Top is tilted 20 degrees. Not sure where to hide subwoofer though.
I like the slant of the Riva, which gave me an idea:
That's actually quite pretty! 200 mm pipe, 600 mm high, 5 degree slant.
Yup, that's the plan. I think I will save a lot of work and achieve a better result if I use the miniDSP. Closed is also the plan, seems so much easier with phase and tuning.
/Anton
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