Help with capacitor markings (pic attached)

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scoob8000

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Joined 2008
#1
Hi all, I've got two MTX class D amp's that I'm going to attempt to repair.

I'm having some time trying to identify a few capacitors.

I'm not sure if the 7 is a 7 or some type of company logo.

Several of their markings from the tops:
7 1N0J 100
7 100NJ100


Figured a picture may help. 🙂

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
#3
Thanks for the reply!

100n makes sense for 100 nano farad.

Some googling leads me to believe the J is the tolerance? 5%

Following that convention, I'm still stumped by 1N0J. Is the zero some sort of multiplier making the 1 mean one nanofarad?

Here is one of my search results, not sure if I'm going in the right direction or not. 🙂
 
#6
Scoob,

Every type - film, ceramic, electrolytic, SMD - has his own code or standard to mark the parts.

Look here and you'll find out more about it.
The J is indeed 5%.
Your 1N0 would be 1nF to me. In doubt, I always measure.

/Hugo
 
#7
Much thanks.

Before I posted I did find one site that referred to the N as the decimal, but what threw me off was they would put a trailing zero on a 1nf and not the 100nf.

I think I've got my parts list all figured out and ready to order.

Thanks again
 
#8
scoob8000 said:

Before I posted I did find one site that referred to the N as the decimal, but what threw me off was they would put a trailing zero on a 1nf and not the 100nf.
Thanks again
Click to expand...

That's because you won't see a 100.5nF capacitor, that way of marking capacitors first starts at <10nF.( at least the ones i've seen ), after 10n there's no use for a decimal.

You're right, it's a jungle out there 😀

Best regards
Ebbe
 
#17
scoob8000 said:

Following that convention, I'm still stumped by 1N0J. Is the zero some sort of multiplier making the 1 mean one nanofarad?
Click to expand...

No, it has something to do with significant figures (the N is the "multiplier" here). The implication is that the more figures you see, the more precise the device is.
E.g. a resistor designated as 1k is less precise than 1k0.

scoob8000 said:
Sure glad I didn't take a guess at it. 🙂

My fluke does take capacitance measurements, but I guess that would mean removing a good cap just to measure it.
Click to expand...

Yes, you'd need to take it out/off of the pcb first. Also be aware of the capacitance of the leads of your multimeter, esp. with small value caps. A few pF of capacitance won't influence the measurement significantly if you're checking a 1 uF capacitor, but imagine you're trying to measure a cap of just 1 pF (assuming your Fluke could even measure precisely in that low a range).
 
#20
Anyway, if you are attempting to repair something, you shouldn't waste time with non-electrolytic caps; they will be 99.5% OK.

Check in priority the semiconductors, specially power ones, electrolytics, low value resistors, connectors switches and other mechanical devices, and then only the plastic and ceramic caps.
But in general you won't need to go that far.
 
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