On Tuesday I saw a watertight fitting become … non tight. Fairly exciting for a Tuesday. Thankfully the AC lines where routed as far from the coolant lines as possible and nothing bad happened.the placing of the fittings there dosent really matter. its water tight quick release.
Don’t completely trust and ANSI rating or the water tightness of a fitting. Best practice is to keep water and electrical away from each other, then you factor in the additional protection you may gain from the IP rated connectors, and so on.
Noisy fans? Just turn up the volume 😂I dont think they are enouth to cool 600w passively. And the water was done to keep the amp at 50c. At all times. Bc. I diddent want to use noisy and ugley fans on the amp itself. i figured why not use what i had now that the idea was festering in my mind 🙂
remember the sinks are lying down. so thr passive cooling from the buttem and sides are minimal.
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and im sure a 120mm fan on each side was enough.. but. the coolness factor of that is marginal at best 😛
It looks like a good solution, very reasonable. The heatsinks are multi-directional. Even though they are more efficient when mounted vertically, they are still effective in the way you have them setup.
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and im sure a 120mm fan on each side was enough.. but. the coolness factor of that is marginal at best 😛
I dunno, if you can place the fans under a perforated copper plate it will be cool in a Borg Kind Of Way. But yes, it will cover up the hardware below.
Now... one thing... are you concerned at all that the sound of the A2 and A3 may not be alike? The A2 and A5 are gorgeous sounding in my experience, but they do sound a bit different. The A5 has a lighter touch, the A2 feels powerful like an icebreaker. I have not heard the A3... so I'm just guessing the Aleph amps were all done for a different sonic purpose.
My assumption is that you are gonna run the A2 and A5 in a biamp configuration. Did I read that right?
Its A 3 and A5 yes..
Dosent really matter if they dont sound alike. as its going to be biamped. so different frequencies altogether. 🙂
Bisides by biamping you change the sound of the individual amps altogeather. so i dont even know if you can compare.
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the A3s will be handeling the tweeter and ribbon tweeter. and A5 the two 6.5"
I have a pair of helicon 400mk2. so you can pritty much hear everything.
And i have never had a class A amp before so honestly allmost anything will be better than my NAD.
Dosent really matter if they dont sound alike. as its going to be biamped. so different frequencies altogether. 🙂
Bisides by biamping you change the sound of the individual amps altogeather. so i dont even know if you can compare.
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the A3s will be handeling the tweeter and ribbon tweeter. and A5 the two 6.5"
I have a pair of helicon 400mk2. so you can pritty much hear everything.
And i have never had a class A amp before so honestly allmost anything will be better than my NAD.
Will the amp ever reach a stable temperature when the water starts and stops running?
The Lazy Singing Bush monobloks I use (burns 200W each) reaches a stable temperature after 1 hour or so. After 1 hour they also play best. I would not like anything to come and cool them down when the heatsinks at the center reaches about 58C or so which is the "end" temperature after about 1 hour.
The Lazy Singing Bush monobloks I use (burns 200W each) reaches a stable temperature after 1 hour or so. After 1 hour they also play best. I would not like anything to come and cool them down when the heatsinks at the center reaches about 58C or so which is the "end" temperature after about 1 hour.
It will burn 600w so i suspect its going to reach 50c rather quick. No idea about the stable temp. but with 13kg of heatsinks, theres ALOT of buffer to go with. aluminium can contain a huge ammount of heat energy.
allso the water aint going to cool those sinks too fast. it all really depends on how fast i choose to spin the fans on the radiator. i suspect i can tinker alot with it.
allso the water aint going to cool those sinks too fast. it all really depends on how fast i choose to spin the fans on the radiator. i suspect i can tinker alot with it.
Maybe you can reach 50c within a more controlled time frame by throttling the flow rate. Think of a thermostat in a car. You may be able to use a variable ball valve as a restrictive orifice in order to inhibit flow until you reach the desired temp… Or, I guess you could just adjust the speed of the circulation pump. The other way is more elegant though (code word for “cooler” and “more awesome”).
like i said earlier. the water wount flow at all until it reaches 50c. i have one of theese to control all that.
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Small Update. Ive begun making the cobber lids for the toroids. 😀
nah. its going to be an open top amplifier. And imo they gonna look alot better with those covers on..
so they are only a cover/noise damping thing.
so they are only a cover/noise damping thing.
Another tiny update... Done with them things 😀 now comes 50+ hours of polishing 😉
Heatsinsks showed up 😀
(needs some milling to remove the outer points. like the design pic.. but so far i think i can make it work without too much hazzle
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