Hi, I'm trying to find a solution for soldering trought holes components with just one hand, because i have a disability of one. It's very difficult to make a good welding, above all with free lead solder. So i'd like to try a hot air solder station.
With a normal solder station, i put a little segment of solder after a bit of solder paste, near the paw of the component and i apply the iron tip on. It's work, but not always, I can't make a complete card of amplifier without error of welding ! Do you think that with a hot air station and the same method, i could be able to weld with a correct success ?
I'm asking the question before to buy a hot air station, and if anyone has a other suggestion, you're welcome. Thank's
With a normal solder station, i put a little segment of solder after a bit of solder paste, near the paw of the component and i apply the iron tip on. It's work, but not always, I can't make a complete card of amplifier without error of welding ! Do you think that with a hot air station and the same method, i could be able to weld with a correct success ?
I'm asking the question before to buy a hot air station, and if anyone has a other suggestion, you're welcome. Thank's
Try using more flux to help the solder flow.
A good hot air rework station will cost you a lot of money. Mine cost me €2850 from Metcal and it is not designed for soldering through hole, it is for SMD work.
A good hot air rework station will cost you a lot of money. Mine cost me €2850 from Metcal and it is not designed for soldering through hole, it is for SMD work.
Try a solder feeder arrangement, on a stand on on the iron, there are many variations.
I don't think hot air will work at all for you for through hole parts.
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-611-2-...keywords=solder+feeder&qid=1695227698&sr=8-17
https://www.circuitspecialists.com/products/csi929d-ii_soldering_gun_with_solder_feeder
It should help access if you bend and clip the leads to the right length before soldering.
I don't think hot air will work at all for you for through hole parts.
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-611-2-...keywords=solder+feeder&qid=1695227698&sr=8-17
https://www.circuitspecialists.com/products/csi929d-ii_soldering_gun_with_solder_feeder
It should help access if you bend and clip the leads to the right length before soldering.
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I think it's feasible but not easy, as THT component but also pcb pads have a much larger thermal mass than SMD : you'll have to apply hot air much more time.
In addition, solder wire usually contains flux which ease the process and also clean (deoxidize?) the wire to be soldered (component leg). My experience (limited) with solder paste (ChipQuik brand but also chinese ones) shows that the part leg and pcb have to be clean or previously covered with melted solder in order to have the solder process correctly happen.
I may give a try next week a let you how it succeeds.
I wonder if it exists a soldering iron with solder dispenser ?
Otherwise, using an external arm could be a solution, I recently bought this :
https://omnifixo.com/
it's very handy
Edit :
Just saw previous post with the link for the soldering iron and solder dispenser : looks ok !
In addition, solder wire usually contains flux which ease the process and also clean (deoxidize?) the wire to be soldered (component leg). My experience (limited) with solder paste (ChipQuik brand but also chinese ones) shows that the part leg and pcb have to be clean or previously covered with melted solder in order to have the solder process correctly happen.
I may give a try next week a let you how it succeeds.
I wonder if it exists a soldering iron with solder dispenser ?
Otherwise, using an external arm could be a solution, I recently bought this :
https://omnifixo.com/
it's very handy
Edit :
Just saw previous post with the link for the soldering iron and solder dispenser : looks ok !
They do exist, with varying quality and prices:
https://www.google.com/search?clien...0HHTJ2DpEQ0pQJegQICxAB&biw=1378&bih=759&dpr=1
Hugo
There are many types, do some searching and find one that looks useful in your situation.
One thing to consider:
Get some solder in a small tube. See link below.
Clamp the pcb in a stand.
Use the soldering iron by hand, with solder added by holding the (clean) tube in your mouth.
I've done this when necessary, it works well. Sometimes your mouth is more steady than your hand.
https://www.zoro.com/alpha-fry-solder-6040-rosin-fine-13461/i/G000538371/
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I do it all the time. I have one of those butane technicians "chefs torches" with the catalytic hot air attachment. I even tore the safety out of it so I can just fire when ready.The hole in the output nozzle looks kinda 3/16 ish and it gets really hot (too hot) but if you turn it all the way down it's in a useable range even for smd's. And yeah, if you need more heat you definitely got it on tap. Great for when you'd otherwise need a bunch of different sizes of solder wire anyway. Just use as much paste as you think you'd need, or add more on a second shot if it would get too sloppy for big joints. While I had it apart to remove the safety I also moved the spline on the gas adjustment a couple notches up so I could adjust down to lower settings. I'm not sure what the factory"calibration" target and accuracy is for that, but I put it where I needed it for the application, mainly this and shrinking polyolefin tube.
Thank's everybody for your recommendations.
I used a auto fedd solder "Bakon BK3500" but the solder fall near the iron tip, not just on, so it's like to place a solder segment near the component leg. I'll try Nevertheless a hot air solder station, not to expensive. I'll make a return of this. Thanks.
I used a auto fedd solder "Bakon BK3500" but the solder fall near the iron tip, not just on, so it's like to place a solder segment near the component leg. I'll try Nevertheless a hot air solder station, not to expensive. I'll make a return of this. Thanks.
I paid £20 for my Atten hot air station and had no problems.
However, I would stick with the iron as hot air takes much longer to warm up the joint.
Make sure you heat up component leg and the pcb pad or it wont solder well.
Dont just heat the solder.
With applying solder first it might take a little longer to solder.
If you're doing only hobby work, I'd recommend leaded solder. Much more forgiving than the lead-free stuff.
Yes, the 63/37 type is best.
I still suggest that you try post #6. It lets you solder normally, but with only one hand.
I still suggest that you try post #6. It lets you solder normally, but with only one hand.