Ah, they might be pretty good for experimenting with, having come from an organ. No, you won't get any bass in free air but don't worry. Now, don't laugh but my first play with OB was a couple of 6" coaxial car speakers 'mounted' in a couple of huge sheets of cardboard, almost a wall actually, I was amazed at the result and that set me off......
Ha Ha, I'm lazy I didn't read all your posts properly, just scanned them... Has your sub woofer got a separate output or could you wire your 15in into it instead of what's there to experiment?
I don't quite know what to expect. However, I'm being realistic that it won't be close to the Polk 12" 505 powered sub I run currently. But a significant step up from the 8" full ranger's bass output is what I'm hoping to get.
Not quite following what you are saying here. Can you try again? Sounds interesting.
I got off into full range and then ended up here in OB with full rangers.
Ok, just been off to have a quick look at polk subwoofers, not familiar with them but at first glance looks like generic sub. It will have it's own crossover and amplifier, there might be an auxiliary output but I don't know, do you? Can you give me model No.? What I'm saying is we might be able to use that to give you a quick and simple comparison
http://ec1.images-amazon.com/media/i3d/01/A/man-migrate/MANUAL000033226.pdf
That's the link to the Polk PSW505 sub that I have.
Just so you know, I have a vintage quadraphonic 4-channel receiver that is my main.
I rarely bother with crossovers for my subs etc and it sounds fine.
I put a capacitor in series with the tweeters though.
Had a look at manual. The only way to do what I was thinking is to remove the speaker drive unit from the sub and connect the wires that went to it to your 15in unit instead. How do you feel about that?
Your comment about rarely bothering with xovers for your subs... I'm missing something. Active/Powered subs have their xover built in, right? But what about passive subs?
I may have already done that... just daisy-chained it off one of the 8" full rangers. I know that might be a no-no cuz I think it dropped the ohmage to about 4 ohms the receiver was seeing. No problems though. But the 15" sounded good... just not much bass from such a large speaker.
No, none of the connections on the sub are after the xover if you get my drift, all you've done is wire them in parallel.
I only use passive subs etc.
Yes active subs have either an active crossover or a passive crossover.
You can have passive crossover on output of an amplifier.
An active crossover uses op-amps.
Just trying to clarify for hnash. I think he was querying what was ment by passive sub, whether they had xovers or not.
Your woofer in an H-frame with a single coil in series will certainly add bass to your 8" fullrange. Enough bass? I don't know.
I've built a few OB speakers with a 6.5" or 8" or oval fullrange as the main driver. Adding a 15" or a couple of 12" under that works well. The medium size fullrage drivers rarely play as low as you'd like on OB. They tend to die off in the 200-300Hz range. The woofer will pick up a lot of that slack.
If your organ woofer on the H-Frame does not have enough bass to match the 8" FR, there are several things you can do to fix that.
I've built a few OB speakers with a 6.5" or 8" or oval fullrange as the main driver. Adding a 15" or a couple of 12" under that works well. The medium size fullrage drivers rarely play as low as you'd like on OB. They tend to die off in the 200-300Hz range. The woofer will pick up a lot of that slack.
If your organ woofer on the H-Frame does not have enough bass to match the 8" FR, there are several things you can do to fix that.
- Get more woofers
- Use different woofers
- Use a plate amp, or similar, to go active on the woofer
- Attenuate the 8" FR to match the woofer. A single series resistor would work, or an L-Pad
+1 A sub will just naturally attenuate high frequencies .
If you're running it Open Back, then you will get cancellation of lower frequencies, which is somewhat of a waste. I would personally put it into a closed cab, possibly ported, or even a folded horn.
Sent from my phone with Tapatalk. Please excuse any typpos.
Especially if you use some antique speaker
😱
You can overcome the issue with rigid cones ( and high mass) and long excursion. Probably a 4 Ω woofer for automotive use could do the job.
It's not the age of the speaker that determines how well it will work on OB. There area lot of other factors. Older woofers do tend to have limited x-max, and that can be a factor.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.