Hi,
I am using big and heavy horn speaker.
When i disassemble that before, It was very difficult to put back together.
And i dont remember which wires are positive and negative.
In the case of Woofer, it can be checked by batteries, but in the case of Horn (Tweeter), is there a way to check?
I am using big and heavy horn speaker.
When i disassemble that before, It was very difficult to put back together.
And i dont remember which wires are positive and negative.
In the case of Woofer, it can be checked by batteries, but in the case of Horn (Tweeter), is there a way to check?
You can do it acoustically using your ears. Take a reference speaker and put it as close to the horn as you can. Drive pink noise (FM interstation hiss would do...) into it, connected to an amp in the proper + to + polarity. Connect your horn speaker in parallel with that.
If the horn is in phase with the reference speaker, you should hear an increase in loudness directly between them. If out of phase, it will get louder on either side of center.
See if you can make that work to ID the + wire of your horn.
If the horn is in phase with the reference speaker, you should hear an increase in loudness directly between them. If out of phase, it will get louder on either side of center.
See if you can make that work to ID the + wire of your horn.
Are you able to touch the diaphragm? If so you can tap it while using a voltmeter on the poles, the value should be negative. In theory, have not tried it myself.
The concept of polarity doesn't apply to the output of long horns since the waves spin different times getting to the output. With DSP, you can find a sort-of-a-bit preferred phase for the driver in its interaction with the other speakers. But jjasniew's clever technique does not reveal how your interaction plays out since his reference is located at the horn's output, not where your other speakers are.
B.
B.
I (really) think the most simple solution is to build it all up, download an audio analyser on your phone and measure the system output with pink noise. When you hook up things wrong, you'd likely get a lower output at the crossover band. Free apps that do this for you are the AudioTools basic bundle and the Etani RTA app.
Respectfully, as someone who has fooled with polarity and phase for horns and remote subs, you need a freq check (REW) to see the results for each polarity. Sometimes hard to decide which is better and so a clearer understanding of which sounds better and why helps.
Likely, the two polarities will sound comparably loud on white noise.
No, this doesn't match naive notions of polarity.
B.
Likely, the two polarities will sound comparably loud on white noise.
No, this doesn't match naive notions of polarity.
B.
In case of a stereo pair of speakers, wires must be set similarly! I your speakers are 2-way construction, simple listening test will be enough.
Poor design is obviously common with 2-way speakers with compression driver/horn, making highpassed driver to be several cycles late. This will make polarity checking complicated without measurements. Also no so important, unless one has a pair of speakers...
Poor design is obviously common with 2-way speakers with compression driver/horn, making highpassed driver to be several cycles late. This will make polarity checking complicated without measurements. Also no so important, unless one has a pair of speakers...
Hi, i'm constantly matching polarities, on 4 and 5-way DIYs....most all with CDs.
Best way no doubt is to measure impulse response using linear view, looking for tallest absolute value peak, and making it positive.
Without that, as you know 9v battery works great for cones.
Also works for CD, although i'd use a 1.5v battery.
A single sheet of one-ply toilet paper, or thin plastic food wrap, over the CD exit hole can usually be seen to puff out a little when polarity positive.
Oh, I strongly disagree with the comment that polarity doesn't apply to horn output. Never met such yet......
Best way no doubt is to measure impulse response using linear view, looking for tallest absolute value peak, and making it positive.
Without that, as you know 9v battery works great for cones.
Also works for CD, although i'd use a 1.5v battery.
A single sheet of one-ply toilet paper, or thin plastic food wrap, over the CD exit hole can usually be seen to puff out a little when polarity positive.
Oh, I strongly disagree with the comment that polarity doesn't apply to horn output. Never met such yet......
If you can remove tweeter driver from a horn and put it very close to reference driver than method by jjasniew will work if you use single frequency with wavelenght several times longer than distance between drivers.
Q:How do you know if crossover is designed so that polarity is same or opposite for woofer and compression driver/tweeter?
A: By measuring the acoustic output
ps. Once I had a ready-made xo for a kit speaker, where tweeter connectors were marked wrong way, obviously to minimize mistakes by random builders. I have also seen some refurbished speakers where wires connections were "corrected", which was wrong for LR2 xo.
A: By measuring the acoustic output
ps. Once I had a ready-made xo for a kit speaker, where tweeter connectors were marked wrong way, obviously to minimize mistakes by random builders. I have also seen some refurbished speakers where wires connections were "corrected", which was wrong for LR2 xo.
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