Hi,
How do you mount a driver in a subwoofer enclosure? I want to be able to open the box after it is done, so I have two alternatives: to mount the driver with screws that I can get off latter or I mount one side/back pannel only with silicone and screws (no glue). Do you use screws for wood for mounting the driver or screwnuts to do the job?
And do you put some silicone between the driver frame and the box?
Miguel
How do you mount a driver in a subwoofer enclosure? I want to be able to open the box after it is done, so I have two alternatives: to mount the driver with screws that I can get off latter or I mount one side/back pannel only with silicone and screws (no glue). Do you use screws for wood for mounting the driver or screwnuts to do the job?
And do you put some silicone between the driver frame and the box?
Miguel
Do you use screws for wood for mounting the driver or screwnuts to do the job?
Neiter !!!!!
T-nuts are the means of choice !
An example:
http://www.stafast.com/products/utnut.html
Regards
Charles
For gasket material you could use weather-stripping like what is commonly used for doors and windows.
My sub has a rubber gasket so I'm not worried about a tight seal.
I'm thinking of using T-nuts to secure the driver, but how can I make it so that the driver flange holes all line up perfectly with the T-nut holes?
I'm thinking of using T-nuts to secure the driver, but how can I make it so that the driver flange holes all line up perfectly with the T-nut holes?
Cut the woofer hole, drop the woofer in, mark at the centers of the mounting holes, remove woofer, center punch, drill small hole, drill again for the T nut body.
Geez Bill,
Woodworking 101
I wonder if he was asking about perfect alignment techniques?
I'd like to know if anyone has a good way of doing this because I've never had an easy time at it.😕
Cheers,
Cal
Woodworking 101
I wonder if he was asking about perfect alignment techniques?
I'd like to know if anyone has a good way of doing this because I've never had an easy time at it.😕
Cheers,
Cal

Hi Bill,
Just to say that it never seems to come out just right like, perhaps just my woodworking skills, that's all.
Cheers,
Cal
Just to say that it never seems to come out just right like, perhaps just my woodworking skills, that's all.
Cheers,
Cal
Nuts, bolt and washers will suffice unless your trying to use your subwoofer as a weapon of mass destruction.
I never saw T-nuts so I have to go check for it. Another thing that came to mind was those little iron pieces used in beds, which have two screws to the wood and a thread in the center. But I guess with the T-nuts it will be easier.
Apart from bracing, is there any other way to stiff the wall where the driver is mounted?
Miguel
Apart from bracing, is there any other way to stiff the wall where the driver is mounted?
Miguel
T-nuts alone are not enough IMO. There's always one that will pop out
Luckily I've yet to seal the final panel.
Propell nuts appear to be a better approach, alas I can't find them in the UK. So now I'm going to try some threaded inserts.
I do like Keld's approach. Will remember it for next time if these inserts aren't to my liking...

Propell nuts appear to be a better approach, alas I can't find them in the UK. So now I'm going to try some threaded inserts.
I do like Keld's approach. Will remember it for next time if these inserts aren't to my liking...
That looks like an interesting idea. I'm frustrated and upset about my bass driver mounting - used normal biting screws straight into the (22mm) MDF, and nearly half of the holes are now mashed. The back of the baffle is chamfered, so I cannot replace the screws with t-nuts as I'd like to.Keld said:
Your k-nut idea may just save my poor speakers!!
Just to clarify: I attach a small piece of wood to the inside of the baffle, and screw thru the baffle into that, maybe even using a t-nut there?
I think it will be a nightmare job attaching the bits of wood tho, as there is no access to the inside other than thru the driver holes... 🙁
edit: or does anyone know of wood filler strong enough to accept screws???
Simon, I considered using T-nuts on the front side of the baffle so that I would have easy access to them. You could fix them in with glue and it will solve you MDF threading issue. This is a weaker method of attaching it, but it may be something to consider in your situation.
If you do fill the holes up, then I would suggest twisting the drivers round a little and making new holes (if you can live with the aesthetic changes of where you screw heads lay).
My final suggestion is to try what I'm about to; Use threaded inserts. I don't have these yet so can't say for sure, but you may be able to insert them into your existing mashed holes and the thread on the inside will allow you to bolt into it.
If you do fill the holes up, then I would suggest twisting the drivers round a little and making new holes (if you can live with the aesthetic changes of where you screw heads lay).
My final suggestion is to try what I'm about to; Use threaded inserts. I don't have these yet so can't say for sure, but you may be able to insert them into your existing mashed holes and the thread on the inside will allow you to bolt into it.
I have seen different kind of threaded inserts. As MDF is a bit soft, I dont know if the inserts that only expand when the screw is attached have sufficient grip to not start rotating with the screw. Inserts with external grooves should be the best for this. They are a bit on the expensive side though.
miguel
miguel
Thanks for your suggestions.Vikash said:Simon, I considered using T-nuts on the front side of the baffle so that I would have easy access to them. You could fix them in with glue and it will solve you MDF threading issue. This is a weaker method of attaching it, but it may be something to consider in your situation.
If you do fill the holes up, then I would suggest twisting the drivers round a little and making new holes (if you can live with the aesthetic changes of where you screw heads lay).
My final suggestion is to try what I'm about to; Use threaded inserts. I don't have these yet so can't say for sure, but you may be able to insert them into your existing mashed holes and the thread on the inside will allow you to bolt into it.
The threaded insert option looks like it might be good, but as miguel points out, MDF is quite soft, and it might all end up pear-shaped, like it is at the moment. Self-tapping inserts look like the ones to go for, I hope B&Q sell them....
Alternatively - does anyone know any way to fill a mashed up hole so a screw can be driven tightly into the hole once more?
I do of course have the option of rotating the driver and starting all over again, but they'll inevitably strip the MDF again, and there are 8 holes per driver 🙁
B&Q do not. I was there hunting for them (and Propell nuts) a couple of days ago. I know the nice fellas over at BK Elec use threaded inserts on some of their speakers, along with allen headed bolts, so perhaps you could try there.
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