With unlimited budget and DSP allowed, miniDSP is a very big mistake... This shows that we have different criteria/taste for "ultimate"....
When you build a small speaker with unlimited budget, you may question if the bass, the look, the listening enjoyment, are worth the money...
I will not build strange design. It will be a bookshelf 3-way. Expensive tweeter, expensive small midrange. The woofer will be a small subwoofer especially having low Vas. The box will be aperiodic, not the round pipe (I want closed but I know no driver will give the LF I want). The enclosure from cast/molded special plastic like bakelite combined with aluminum front baffle. Modifying the drivers is unavoidable or a necessity. Oh, as a side joke, I will purchase the FINE box, FINE motor, FINE cone, FINE X over, etc...
For $500, it's a difficult job. I will simply look for available designs around that budget, compare the measurement results and try to improve on it.
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Imho : none ! Mostly at these sizes where the stiffness is good enough with plywood. You need some internal damping with the walls and also fight against the surface transmission where the metals are very good here (=not good). There are tons of polymer better than aluminium for this task. Lead could do the job but not alone.
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You can have thinner cabinet walls making for more internal volume.
A caninet this small you could probably 3-D print the enclosure.
dave
It's a cost-no-object project. We choose superior drivers, why then choose inferior electronics? There are many better DSPs, even the best one may need "upgrade"...
Active speaker is an approach I have never satisfied with yet (still trying)...
What about Accuton's last DSP, Cell midwoofers, and diamond tweeter with Ncore ampls for a state of the art active clone of ls35a?🙄
http://accuton.com/company/index.php?&m1=5&m2=15#news_25
Or what about something really different 35hz from a 2,5l cabinet with these mini woofers and passive radiators, and a 2' fullranger crossed around 500hz?
http://www.tb-speaker.com/news/detail/46
Btw, not sure that my mini dsp 2X4 HD, sound any worse nor better than my RME Fireface, nor my Cirrus sound card for RPI. In my case the not-good-enough-for-me / not-expensive-enough-for-me no longer apllies to electronics.😎
http://accuton.com/company/index.php?&m1=5&m2=15#news_25
Or what about something really different 35hz from a 2,5l cabinet with these mini woofers and passive radiators, and a 2' fullranger crossed around 500hz?
http://www.tb-speaker.com/news/detail/46
Btw, not sure that my mini dsp 2X4 HD, sound any worse nor better than my RME Fireface, nor my Cirrus sound card for RPI. In my case the not-good-enough-for-me / not-expensive-enough-for-me no longer apllies to electronics.😎
I did put somewhat similar question in this thread. Link. The size was not a constraint but still it was difficult to achieve I guess. The reference level which I was talking about (and caused little confusion😱) in that thread was SPL of lower frequency at the same level where other frequencies were if measured.
Regards
Heat dissipation.
An aluminium enclosure would give more long-term power handling with less compression, especially where low-efficiency mini-subs are in use.
Chris
I think some of you are onto something though. Certainly you'd want to squeeze as much bass out of this as is possible whilst having the nicest midrange.
The former requires a sub driver, or similar, and a vented/PR alignment. Something with a LT would be nice too, but that introduces more compromises given the small form factor.
I am thinking mount a decent sized sub driver on the side of the enclosure with a PR on the other side, 6-8", optimised to work in the cabinet volume available.
Reduce the width of the front of the loudspeaker to suit the additional depth needed.
This will result in you needing to use 3-4" front facing drivers.
The sub should easily be able to work up to around 150Hz.
For the tweeter I'd get SEAS to custom make me a DXT device as large in diameter as the cabinet width would allow but using their diamond dome.
Then for the 'midrange' probably a custom device from SB acoustics. A Satori driver as wide as the cabinet would allow but with an aluminium cone. Either that or custom a ceramic coned driver from Accuton, to fit the cabinet width and based on their underhung motor geometry.
The cabinet would be constructed out of aluminium and a moulded polymer. This would be done to keep the wall thickness to a minimum, so as to maximise cabinet volume, but also to keep it very stiff and well damped.
The former requires a sub driver, or similar, and a vented/PR alignment. Something with a LT would be nice too, but that introduces more compromises given the small form factor.
I am thinking mount a decent sized sub driver on the side of the enclosure with a PR on the other side, 6-8", optimised to work in the cabinet volume available.
Reduce the width of the front of the loudspeaker to suit the additional depth needed.
This will result in you needing to use 3-4" front facing drivers.
The sub should easily be able to work up to around 150Hz.
For the tweeter I'd get SEAS to custom make me a DXT device as large in diameter as the cabinet width would allow but using their diamond dome.
Then for the 'midrange' probably a custom device from SB acoustics. A Satori driver as wide as the cabinet would allow but with an aluminium cone. Either that or custom a ceramic coned driver from Accuton, to fit the cabinet width and based on their underhung motor geometry.
The cabinet would be constructed out of aluminium and a moulded polymer. This would be done to keep the wall thickness to a minimum, so as to maximise cabinet volume, but also to keep it very stiff and well damped.
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