Good deal!! Looks like shelf braces, screwed and glued.
Hey - what if the crossover has a lightbulb on it?
Hey - what if the crossover has a lightbulb on it?
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Nope Just a cap on the tweeter and a small coil on the woofer.
BUT
Good quality cap and coil
So not the Eminence XO
Eminence Alpha10A and the Peerless [ Denmark] DX 25TG-05-04
Tweeter has a 16R bypass resistor soldered on to it
I know the tweeter is well regarded but how about the Eminence midbass?
BUT
Good quality cap and coil
So not the Eminence XO
Eminence Alpha10A and the Peerless [ Denmark] DX 25TG-05-04
Tweeter has a 16R bypass resistor soldered on to it
I know the tweeter is well regarded but how about the Eminence midbass?
I'm not sure what the original box builder was thinking of when they built this box.
It's using the full sheet height of 1200mm; which I do myself a lot but at 405 * 330mm and 16mm MDF its a volume of 129 litres Heavily braced let's take away 10%
Also I think it started out as a ported box but is now fully volume filled with acoustic fibreglass; I'm guessing a reused box.
Needs cleaning out as mice have made a home in the bottom of it.
I'm open to advice here. I could do with some new tops for my big party system.
I'll still carry on making the new party box just because I can. New thread for a discussion on what to do with the Eminence comes soon
With luck I can use the bits from this XO
It's using the full sheet height of 1200mm; which I do myself a lot but at 405 * 330mm and 16mm MDF its a volume of 129 litres Heavily braced let's take away 10%
Also I think it started out as a ported box but is now fully volume filled with acoustic fibreglass; I'm guessing a reused box.
Needs cleaning out as mice have made a home in the bottom of it.
I'm open to advice here. I could do with some new tops for my big party system.
I'll still carry on making the new party box just because I can. New thread for a discussion on what to do with the Eminence comes soon
With luck I can use the bits from this XO
Attachments
BTW, the goal is to not light the light bulb. The bulb is meant to limit tweeter power once it has been pushed too far.
Methinks (99% certain) that was once a 2 pi tower. Supposed to be ported and empty save for fiberglass on 3 walls plus a cross-batt on two shelf braces IIRC. Not a good outdoor party speaker in that config IMO, but, in a home room, should have plenty of LF and sound better than you'd think (unless something is fried). I don't know if Wayne had those XO's on boards--when I knew them, they were loose parts.
Don't know about the woofers but the tweeters on your $20 purchase look like Vifa DX25s - value plus!
Geoff
Geoff
They are but made by ScanSpeak I think the inductors alone are worth $20-, what do Solen 10uF capacitors cost? $25- each?
Seller did say they sounded good. He didn't build them and just needed the garage space back, I just bought them because they hadn't sold in over a month and the $20- I offered was accepted. I'm sure I can re-use the boxes. I've just taken all the fibreglass out and vacuumed out the mouse turds and dead millipedes. No port just a 100mm hole to the rear
I'll write this in a clear & simple way so all readers can make sense of it.
- An incandescent bulb is a light that uses a metal filament. I will call it a ILB.
- A fundamental characteristic of an ILB is that its resistance changes greatly between it being un-lit vs. lit.
- This means that it can be used in speakers to create an Audio Compressor > thereby having a use for protection.
- The ILB's that are useful in speakers are Automotive Globes being in the voltage range of > 6, 12 and 24 volts.
- The wattage range for use in speakers is > 6W, 10W, 18W, 21W and 26W. ( 50W could be used with VERY high power speakers )
- The ILB is ALWAYS used in series with a driver or complete speaker system.
- If only one ILB is used for a complete speaker system, the result is known as "Single Band Compression".
- Picking the correct voltage & wattage is dependent on the power of your amplifier, speaker or drivers is and what the maximum desired volume is.
- TRUE DIY EXPERIMENTATION is actually the best way to become familiar with ILB use, but a typical example would be >
- It should be realized that using ILB's is NOT strictly HiFI for normal home listening, but in this context is regarding PARTY SPEAKERS.
- Another useful example is if you had low power speakers in another room as 'extension speakers' and wanted them lower volume and protected
PS.
Replacing a blown bulb is much cheaper than replacing speakers 🙂
And also probably cheaper than a PTC thermistor these days.
I've been lucky; I have blown a speaker in a long long time, but I can't say the same for my sister who toasted my IMF Super compacts using bass boost and turned my 150W amp up to 11 and who then refused to believe that the blown midrange cost $100- each to replace
I've been lucky; I have blown a speaker in a long long time, but I can't say the same for my sister who toasted my IMF Super compacts using bass boost and turned my 150W amp up to 11 and who then refused to believe that the blown midrange cost $100- each to replace
The tweeters, either under the Vifa or Scan Speak label - I think they're the same driver - sell new for around A$75, the Solen caps probably around $25, although they aren't available in Oz and would need to come from overseas, so you have a real bargain; what are the woofers?
Geoff
Geoff
See post #22
https://thespeakerfactory.com.au/products/eminence-alpha-10a-10-150-watts-speaker
A midbass not a woofer. I don't have anything in the shed as efficient but I could use 2 a side of something like the cheap 12s from Avico; except they need a really big box to avoid a bass hump.
A pair of the old Carbon Fibre 305mm Jaycar woofers would work tho
https://thespeakerfactory.com.au/products/eminence-alpha-10a-10-150-watts-speaker
A midbass not a woofer. I don't have anything in the shed as efficient but I could use 2 a side of something like the cheap 12s from Avico; except they need a really big box to avoid a bass hump.
A pair of the old Carbon Fibre 305mm Jaycar woofers would work tho
You can cut the box...or...you must!
The real deal with that woofer is to play with it. You can make small boxes and position them freely. Now you are linked( to ground).
'to play ' means that you might get away from the 'real low' bass necessity at first, and see where do they carry you.
A robust tweeter instead of the ILB ...or a CD then padded... that's how it goes
The real deal with that woofer is to play with it. You can make small boxes and position them freely. Now you are linked( to ground).
'to play ' means that you might get away from the 'real low' bass necessity at first, and see where do they carry you.
A robust tweeter instead of the ILB ...or a CD then padded... that's how it goes
They do and it is infuriating...so I staple mighty mouse-proof mesh over any and all ports etc. ( So far neither Penfold nor Danger-Mouse has reappeared. 🙂 Though I would be O.K with Penfold taking up residence)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Danger_Mouse_(1981_TV_series)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMXYJwjL51w
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Yes to that. I have this big tweeter I've been playing with and I have decided to use it with this mid-bass. The box I can use for something else.
@picowallspeaker This new set of party speakers will be to replace the other set using 2 good but dated Tandy 200s in MTM
Need something to soak up the power after all.
I'll take pix of the old speakers tomorrow, they seem to have got lost in the hard drive somewhere
@picowallspeaker This new set of party speakers will be to replace the other set using 2 good but dated Tandy 200s in MTM
Need something to soak up the power after all.
I'll take pix of the old speakers tomorrow, they seem to have got lost in the hard drive somewhere
Attachments
Now if this question is about my first intention it was going to be a cheap generic woofer crossing to the Tandy dome using that premade generic XO at 1500 and to a tweeter at 5000, possibly an 8" or maybe a combination of cheap woofers
The hole is the port--there is no duct. Half-space curves here. The combination of the way that thing is tuned and damped + the (weird) driver parameters make it both decently-damped and more than passable LF for a lot of people in-room. I built a pair for a friend years ago and it put a lot of grins on my face--one of those synergy things. It's what it is--a 2-way with a 10 so it'll never be as clean on the bottom as a bigger driver. The protection-beeswax looks foreign to the original project.
