Both my TV and media center have an audio delay future which means I can compensate for the fifo delay. Check yours and you might save yourselves a lot of headache.
Where do you guys buy Ian's McFIFO? I can't find it. Here is only asynchronous I2S and S/PDIF FIFO KIT GB
Just need to be sure so I ask...
Is the GPIO numbered like the IO header? That is lower row 1-3-5-7-9-11 and upper row 2-4-6-8-10-12?
Thx
Correct.
Merry Holidays !
Got my kits, Thanks Brian, Russ. Best of days to you both.
Good timing !![]()
There is nothing I like more on Christmas Day than a audio/electronic kit and the smell of solder.
Tradition that goes way back.... I was 13or14, Xmas '68or'69, Dad gave me the best present ever...
A Dynakit SCA-35. Still have it & usually hook it up on Xmas eve.
View attachment 652894
Oh, Boy..... the fun continues
Thanks again, Charles
Nice!
Enjoy - Merry Christmas!
w
As long as you always have a master clock (of sufficient frequency) present (even if it is not in sync with your spdif source) your SPDIF will play just fine. Don't even sweat it. The important thing is just that there is a very clean *close* noise free master clock. 🙂
Also I would try running with the 100Mhz clock - even if your reclock externally - try it. Really... I mean it - objectively give it a spin. ES9028/38 are a new animal.
I have been switching between sync and async many times - and compared to the ES9018 - where I do think sync was a bit better - well I can't detect a difference at all on the 9038 - and I am very picky. I am quite certain there is no measurable difference.
Concentrate on simple clean wiring - let the DAC do the rest. 🙂
Cheers!
Russ
Hi,
I'm about to start putting the buffalo DAC together and I am trying to figure out if my planned setup is possible.
Basically, I would like the buffalo to have 2 inputs: the first one being DSD coming from Ian's McFIFO and the second SPDIF from various AV sources.
I understand that the buffalo allows both SPDIF and DSD input with the current firmware, but the problem I'm seeing is with the clock.
If I use Ian's McFIFO, the onboard clock will be replaced by the clock from the McFIFO (omitting the VDD_XO and connecting the McFIFO MCK to the EXT_MCK on the buffalo). If I'm using the SPDIF input, I would then need to have the onboard clock active as the SPDIF will not be passing through the McFIFO (because of the video-audio delay that will be introduced by the McFIFO).
Since I cannot have both the onboard clock off for the FIFO and back on for the SPDIF, would it be possible to modify the firmware so that when the SPDIF source is selected, the VDD_XO is turned "On" with a relay and the McFIFO supply is turned off with another relay? Effectively activating the onboard clock and disabling the McFIFO clock (without having to disconnect the EXT_MCK)? Is there a better way of doing that?
Thanks
Paul
As long as you always have a master clock (of sufficient frequency) present (even if it is not in sync with your spdif source) your SPDIF will play just fine. Don't even sweat it. The important thing is just that there is a very clean *close* noise free master clock. 🙂
Also I would try running with the 100Mhz clock - even if your reclock externally - try it. Really... I mean it - objectively give it a spin. ES9028/38 are a new animal.
I have been switching between sync and async many times - and compared to the ES9018 - where I do think sync was a bit better - well I can't detect a difference at all on the 9038 - and I am very picky. I am quite certain there is no measurable difference.
Concentrate on simple clean wiring - let the DAC do the rest. 🙂
Cheers!
Russ
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Thanks for the reply Russ!
Like with the BIII DAC, do I have to connect DAC_ADDR to ground to use an Arduino controller? The BIII had that header to jump to use controller.
Like with the BIII DAC, do I have to connect DAC_ADDR to ground to use an Arduino controller? The BIII had that header to jump to use controller.
You're welcome!
The I2C address net is pulled low with a high value resistor. No need to use a jumper - just leave it low and use the appropriate I2C address.
The I2C address net is pulled low with a high value resistor. No need to use a jumper - just leave it low and use the appropriate I2C address.
I'm reading up on Arduino programming, but not being a programmer the C++ stuff is a bit intimidating. I think I will attempt to put together a basic Arduino based controller that just switches the existing options through the IO port, and displays the configuration on an LCD. - If only the Arduino ran Basic...🙂
Russ, do I need pull up resistors on my I2C controller for SDA/SCL or are they on your new 9028/9038 SE boards like the previous 9018 BIII?
Thank you for all the help!
Thank you for all the help!
Legato 3.1 Fittment Issues
Just a heads up to anyone wanting to stack the new 9028 on a Legato 3.1. If you need to mount the digital input terminal blocks (under mount) it will not stack on the Legato if you have the headphone out terminal block mounted. It also interferes with the L1 and L2 inductors near the headphone terminal block. I am looking for ways to extend the pins on the Legato to allow higher standoffs.
Also i was able to get the LCDPS working up to 1A. I removed all the 3W resistors after discovering that it has a common mode choke on the feed to the caps. There was no schematic for this version on TPs website, but the picture of the board on the ordering page is the right version. So I was able to figure out enough of the schematic to be reasonable sure I wasn't going to blow it up.
Even with my temp wiring it sounds great. The soundstage is so much wider, I actually had to play my channel identification and phasing track to double check I didn't wire a channel backwards. Definitely an improvement on the BufII.
Just a heads up to anyone wanting to stack the new 9028 on a Legato 3.1. If you need to mount the digital input terminal blocks (under mount) it will not stack on the Legato if you have the headphone out terminal block mounted. It also interferes with the L1 and L2 inductors near the headphone terminal block. I am looking for ways to extend the pins on the Legato to allow higher standoffs.
Also i was able to get the LCDPS working up to 1A. I removed all the 3W resistors after discovering that it has a common mode choke on the feed to the caps. There was no schematic for this version on TPs website, but the picture of the board on the ordering page is the right version. So I was able to figure out enough of the schematic to be reasonable sure I wasn't going to blow it up.
Even with my temp wiring it sounds great. The soundstage is so much wider, I actually had to play my channel identification and phasing track to double check I didn't wire a channel backwards. Definitely an improvement on the BufII.
Just a heads up to anyone wanting to stack the new 9028 on a Legato 3.1.....
I used these longer header pins on my Legato, even with the BIII. 0.510" (12.95mm) off the top of plastic header. Some of the header pins I soldered in would just touch the top of some of the supplied caps with 1/2" standoffs. I used 5/8" or 15.88mm standoffs.
929647-04-36-I 3M | Connectors, Interconnects | DigiKey
Digikey part 929647-04-36-ND. These are also listed in the BIII integration manual at the end. They are pricey at $8.32 for a 36 pin strip. (The shorter header pins are like a buck 80 for a 36 pin strip).
5/8" aluminum between boards standoffs 4-40 thread. Digikey 36-8402-ND.
8402 Keystone Electronics | Hardware, Fasteners, Accessories | DigiKey
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I used these longer header pins on my Legato, even with the BIII. I used 5/8" or 15.88mm standoffs.
I have done exactly the same. Works well! 😉
Frank
If you are ordering a B3 (any version) for use with an existing Legato, let me know and I will send you the correct stacking parts.
100 MHz...
Hi Russ, Are you suggesting that the 9038 will perform better with higher rate masterclock in either sync or async mode? I am considering running a 90.3168 in the Cronus to run sync mode, but the 45.1584 XOs have a phase noise advantage. I do understand that the higher rate XO might be needed for, say, DSD 512...
w
As long as you always have a master clock (of sufficient frequency) present (even if it is not in sync with your spdif source) your SPDIF will play just fine. Don't even sweat it. The important thing is just that there is a very clean *close* noise free master clock. 🙂
Also I would try running with the 100Mhz clock - even if your reclock externally - try it. Really... I mean it - objectively give it a spin. ES9028/38 are a new animal.
I have been switching between sync and async many times - and compared to the ES9018 - where I do think sync was a bit better - well I can't detect a difference at all on the 9038 - and I am very picky. I am quite certain there is no measurable difference.
Concentrate on simple clean wiring - let the DAC do the rest. 🙂
Cheers!
Russ
Hi Russ, Are you suggesting that the 9038 will perform better with higher rate masterclock in either sync or async mode? I am considering running a 90.3168 in the Cronus to run sync mode, but the 45.1584 XOs have a phase noise advantage. I do understand that the higher rate XO might be needed for, say, DSD 512...
9028 Pro with Legato 3.1
I'm not sure that 5/8" standoffs and male header are enough....
I measure the standard terminal blocks supplied as 7/16" tall.. If you have a TB on the underside of the DAC and one on the top of the I/V it appears to me you need at least 7/8" standoffs.
I ordered 7/8" standoffs and the appropriate male headers. I will post pictures when I get them. I also may have 5/8" standoffs in the pile of parts. I will check those as well when I can.
I'm not sure that 5/8" standoffs and male header are enough....
I measure the standard terminal blocks supplied as 7/16" tall.. If you have a TB on the underside of the DAC and one on the top of the I/V it appears to me you need at least 7/8" standoffs.
I ordered 7/8" standoffs and the appropriate male headers. I will post pictures when I get them. I also may have 5/8" standoffs in the pile of parts. I will check those as well when I can.
Got the B3SEP going this past weekend. Coming from an original B2.
More detail, more smooth. Pretty big jump! nice.
Got mercury going a few days later (super easy build, thanks). WOW. Coming from an IVY, I wasn't expecting a huge difference but wow. Everything is fatter and has a nice tight body. mmm.....
More detail, more smooth. Pretty big jump! nice.
Got mercury going a few days later (super easy build, thanks). WOW. Coming from an IVY, I wasn't expecting a huge difference but wow. Everything is fatter and has a nice tight body. mmm.....
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