Hi guys,
I have a setup with separate monoblocks with an IR receiver. The issue I have is that sometimes the IR command is picked up by one monobloc but not by the other, because they are not in the same space (10 ft apart). So I am looking for an IR 'blaster', something that receives my IR command and re-broadcasts it over a wider area and/or with more power.
These things are surprisingly hard to find; most 'range extenders' have small wired up re-transmitters you can place inside a cupboard to control hidden equipment, but that's NOT what Ineed.
I did find this: BestCon RM4C PRO, which seems to do what I need (plus a lot of other stuff I don't need) but I am not sure.
If you look at the right-most icon below the 1st picture here: https://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/374227163614?hash=item5721ad59de:g:zckAAOSwqUljBvWB&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA4KJPmsWn7z4g4+0iSQEWoZLZpP21wDN1uIY7lR/foNARd/oa//tO6QXHqV6FfNDikbtzgu2BDIWQukTk7MB/nx1P2d9OnyO6rfzqiwwtwjkfiOu5U3oUwSaUIyETQHkynMAEKkNyhsPJY42/PR0LF5JGzaq9zupd32UjPpk4/WwJ0daHwl+2FsfupIN7J1Te1Z6FswL4gyUYpmWk4RjLjQEjXLWhBTlK8Yad8Vp9aPbSOIHEWu+uX1wFo9/y59iZ0i00Rk+5Nh1fVeGZym7eU7bo3Z0OnGFw1alo/cIlv9d5|tkp:BFBM6JCS7-tg
it looks like it also accepts IR commands and re-transmit it. The user guide is, as usual, not helpful at all.
Does any of you have this unit, or used it, and can educate me?
Jan
I have a setup with separate monoblocks with an IR receiver. The issue I have is that sometimes the IR command is picked up by one monobloc but not by the other, because they are not in the same space (10 ft apart). So I am looking for an IR 'blaster', something that receives my IR command and re-broadcasts it over a wider area and/or with more power.
These things are surprisingly hard to find; most 'range extenders' have small wired up re-transmitters you can place inside a cupboard to control hidden equipment, but that's NOT what Ineed.
I did find this: BestCon RM4C PRO, which seems to do what I need (plus a lot of other stuff I don't need) but I am not sure.
If you look at the right-most icon below the 1st picture here: https://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/374227163614?hash=item5721ad59de:g:zckAAOSwqUljBvWB&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA4KJPmsWn7z4g4+0iSQEWoZLZpP21wDN1uIY7lR/foNARd/oa//tO6QXHqV6FfNDikbtzgu2BDIWQukTk7MB/nx1P2d9OnyO6rfzqiwwtwjkfiOu5U3oUwSaUIyETQHkynMAEKkNyhsPJY42/PR0LF5JGzaq9zupd32UjPpk4/WwJ0daHwl+2FsfupIN7J1Te1Z6FswL4gyUYpmWk4RjLjQEjXLWhBTlK8Yad8Vp9aPbSOIHEWu+uX1wFo9/y59iZ0i00Rk+5Nh1fVeGZym7eU7bo3Z0OnGFw1alo/cIlv9d5|tkp:BFBM6JCS7-tg
it looks like it also accepts IR commands and re-transmit it. The user guide is, as usual, not helpful at all.
Does any of you have this unit, or used it, and can educate me?
Jan
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https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Rep...ocphy=9005924&hvtargid=pla-312923447038&psc=1
This is what you say you don’t need. However it will work perfectly for you. I have used gizmos like this before. I gather you don’t want to run a small cable between locations. As it only handles a few milliamps the cable can be astoundingly small. Think two 32 gauge conductors or even smaller!
Seems like your IR blaster just might have feedback issues.
This is what you say you don’t need. However it will work perfectly for you. I have used gizmos like this before. I gather you don’t want to run a small cable between locations. As it only handles a few milliamps the cable can be astoundingly small. Think two 32 gauge conductors or even smaller!
Seems like your IR blaster just might have feedback issues.
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Indeed, no wires!
I really just need something that repeats my remote control but into a wider angle/area.
I ordered this, not sure it will do that but for the money it's worth a try.
https://www.ebay.de/itm/374227163614
The receivers I put in my amps are AC4, which I thought is a good balance between signal sensitivity and insensitivity to external disturbances from IR sources. I could experiment with AC3 or even AC2.
Jan
I really just need something that repeats my remote control but into a wider angle/area.
I ordered this, not sure it will do that but for the money it's worth a try.
https://www.ebay.de/itm/374227163614
The receivers I put in my amps are AC4, which I thought is a good balance between signal sensitivity and insensitivity to external disturbances from IR sources. I could experiment with AC3 or even AC2.
Jan
I've had the same problem and wondered if putting one of these lenses in front of each receiver would widen their view?
https://www.amazon.com/Crystal-1-6inch-Clear-Sphere-Stand/dp/B075CB5SX3?ref_=ast_sto_dp
https://www.amazon.com/Crystal-1-6inch-Clear-Sphere-Stand/dp/B075CB5SX3?ref_=ast_sto_dp
(coffee finally kicks in)
Jan are you assuming, for these wired systems, that you have to position the 'input module' at the far end of the room from the system? Close to where you and the remote are? They don't work like that, you can locate the input LED right into the rack with your system and talk to it from across the room.
Be aware some of these systems (the one I have!) invert the signal. If your remote illuminates both the DUT's internal sensor and the blaster sensor they cancel out! I had to optically mask the sensor on each component, then it worked perfect. I have some utterly generic 12 dollar setup from Amazon.
Jan are you assuming, for these wired systems, that you have to position the 'input module' at the far end of the room from the system? Close to where you and the remote are? They don't work like that, you can locate the input LED right into the rack with your system and talk to it from across the room.
Be aware some of these systems (the one I have!) invert the signal. If your remote illuminates both the DUT's internal sensor and the blaster sensor they cancel out! I had to optically mask the sensor on each component, then it worked perfect. I have some utterly generic 12 dollar setup from Amazon.
I have a setup with a pair of ESLs that each have a monobloc near the speaker. In the middle I have the streamer and miniDSp and DAC. The monoblocks are about 15 feet apart and each have their own IR receiver.
What I see is that sometimes one monobloc reacts to the IR command, the other doesn't, until I point the remote to it more directly and issue the command again.
My room is not very big and it seems that the remote (stock miniDSP and RME ADI-2 Pro) is maybe too directional to hit all equipment at the same time. Thus my quest for more IR power and/or wider dispersion.
Jan
What I see is that sometimes one monobloc reacts to the IR command, the other doesn't, until I point the remote to it more directly and issue the command again.
My room is not very big and it seems that the remote (stock miniDSP and RME ADI-2 Pro) is maybe too directional to hit all equipment at the same time. Thus my quest for more IR power and/or wider dispersion.
Jan
Jan,
IR diodes in remotes are prone to wear, as they are usually overdriven cheap devices. replace it with a diode capable of peak power, and not too narrow beam; if you are visiting alicante, I can give you a few, otherwise try to find the TSFF5510 Vishay, it's a wide angle pulse operation IR emitter, stock digikey, mouser. no stock in EU strangely ..
IR diodes in remotes are prone to wear, as they are usually overdriven cheap devices. replace it with a diode capable of peak power, and not too narrow beam; if you are visiting alicante, I can give you a few, otherwise try to find the TSFF5510 Vishay, it's a wide angle pulse operation IR emitter, stock digikey, mouser. no stock in EU strangely ..
My remotes are new, but replacing the transmit diode might be a solution.
I have two remotes so can sacrifice one for the sake of science.
Haven't been to Alicante for years. I have my own place now at the Belgian coast.
Not as nice weather of course ...
Jan
I have two remotes so can sacrifice one for the sake of science.
Haven't been to Alicante for years. I have my own place now at the Belgian coast.
Not as nice weather of course ...
Jan
Maybe install a high-velocity disco ball in the ceiling and aim the IR transmitter at that? 🙂
I'm 99% kidding, of course, but I think you're unlikely to avoid active electronics unless you come up with a clever mirror alignment. That said, those "mirrors" only need to be mirrors for IR. They don't need to be mirrors for the visible spectrum, so a pane of window glass in the right location would work.
Would an IR repeater in a central location be acceptable? There's gotta be some high powered IR emitters out there. For example, I can clearly see the deep red glow of my neighbour's backyard security camera at night and I bet those LEDs emit much, much more IR than the bit of visible red I see. Maybe an array of those driven by a substantial power supply would be enough to reach all the IR receivers from one central location.
Tom
I'm 99% kidding, of course, but I think you're unlikely to avoid active electronics unless you come up with a clever mirror alignment. That said, those "mirrors" only need to be mirrors for IR. They don't need to be mirrors for the visible spectrum, so a pane of window glass in the right location would work.
Would an IR repeater in a central location be acceptable? There's gotta be some high powered IR emitters out there. For example, I can clearly see the deep red glow of my neighbour's backyard security camera at night and I bet those LEDs emit much, much more IR than the bit of visible red I see. Maybe an array of those driven by a substantial power supply would be enough to reach all the IR receivers from one central location.
Tom
Have you considered just changing the IR LED on the remote for one with more output? EDIT: I see you did think of it.
https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Infrared-IR-LEDs_Everlight-Elec-IR204C-A-L_C98863.html
I have an IR remote here that works anywhere you point it - it's so bright the receiver sees the whole room flash.
https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Infrared-IR-LEDs_Everlight-Elec-IR204C-A-L_C98863.html
I have an IR remote here that works anywhere you point it - it's so bright the receiver sees the whole room flash.
The total power vs input power is the important factor, not the power vs angle, as that value depends on the actual lens and beam angle. A good efficiency is between 30 adn 40% if not driven too hard, as the series resistance plays a role at high currents. observing the forward voltage vs current does reveal the series resistance.
Jan,
Here are some methods that will work, but I am quite sure you won’t use them;
Cover the walls with front surface mirrors.
Change to a smaller room.
Change to an RF remote control.
Change the AC outlets to remote control versions.
As you know some claim gear sounds better if always left powered on.
And of course just always listen to music, so you never have to turn things on.
😉
ES
Here are some methods that will work, but I am quite sure you won’t use them;
Cover the walls with front surface mirrors.
Change to a smaller room.
Change to an RF remote control.
Change the AC outlets to remote control versions.
As you know some claim gear sounds better if always left powered on.
And of course just always listen to music, so you never have to turn things on.
😉
ES
You forgot: 'Hire an 18 year old m/f/LBTQ high-heeled intern to manually switch on and off your gear.
Jan
Jan
My TV remote control works even if I point it to the opposite wall or to the ceiling. But I experienced your issue with other equipment. I think it is all about IR transmit power, wide angle dispersion (both transmitter and receiver), and receiver sensitivity. Since the transmitter diode is pulse operated, it tolerates very high peak currents. Sometimes the batteries are not able to deliver such amount of current. In this case a parallel electrolytic capacitor might help (1000uF/6.3V or so).
This project maybe of interest - Silicon Chip Magazine Remote Control Range Extender (Preview) Use the page size setting at the top of the page to zoom in on the text.
The project is in the January 2023 Edition of Practical Electronics Magazine
It converts the IR signal to a 433Mhz signal and the reverse process at the far end.