MKV works quite well too... 🙂
While not MKV-brand, dig up the Allied catalog and grab a few 1 uF motor run caps. 330VAC will more than cover 400VDC, but the 440VAC will also do.
Also, the 6 uF total is not that much. A 7.5 uF motor run is my go-to for coupling. This will for sure be smaller than 6, 1 uF caps.....and can therefore be kept further away from these heat sources. Polypropylene is OK up to temperature that will burn you fairly quickly.
cheers,
Douglas
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Impedance (Z) of capacitors is expressed by the following equation.
Z = R + j 2πf L+ 1／(j 2πf C)
Fundamentals of Capacitors and Hybrid Capacitors - Industrial Devices & Solutions - Panasonic
As you can see there, mainly the ESR determinates impedance (minimum), so low - and more or less constant as a function of frequency ... at least in the HF range- ESR theoretically gives better result.... and the you listen it .... 😛
For example (in the past I tested some capacitors with DER EE 5000):
ESR alteration 100Hz, 1kHz, 10kHz, 100kHz
1uF K40Y-9: 3.6R, 0.46R, 90mR, 60mR
1uF ClarityCap: 100mR, 30mR, 10mR, 10mR
1uF MCap: 300mR, 20mR, below the 1mR measuring range, 10mR
Ask Bat, it was the slogan. 😛
BTW
2.2uF Jensen (copper foil, oil, silver leadout)
3.2R, 0.37R, 50mR, 80mR
0.68uF VCap (CuTF)
300mR, 90mR, 10mR, 30mR
Keep in mind Mundorf might be mechanical sounding (despite the oil) compared to your Jensens you've used to listen to. Mundorfs are mostly polypropylene. Imagine that plastic signature, but dampened in oil, which gives a bit of control to the plastic timbre. Compared to the Jensens, they sound more detail revealing and clean, but lack that fireplace warm tone and timbre.
🙂 50AE is a gentleman about Mundorf....
..no with many words; you can use for good sound Jupiter paper & wax copper, but expensive.
..no with many words; you can use for good sound Jupiter paper & wax copper, but expensive.
Don't waste your money on wax capacitors. There was a recent post about some Jupiter wax capacitors failing. Wax is not a hermetic seal and moisture will eventually get inside.
Hello, I have thought about 1uf 410v Dynamicap capacitors which I have in a 300b amplifier and it is very transparent and with an opening, what do you think for the Sixpack of the bat vk51se?
Look here for many options:
Humble Homemade Hifi - Capacitor Test
Main issue probably will be size. I liked these a lot in my dac tube output and the price is not too high: Intertechnik Audyn Cap Plus MKP
In my tube pre amp I now use vintage paper in oil 4uF metal can caps (huge things) bypassed with Russian Teflon. Sounds really well I think 🙂
Humble Homemade Hifi - Capacitor Test
Main issue probably will be size. I liked these a lot in my dac tube output and the price is not too high: Intertechnik Audyn Cap Plus MKP
In my tube pre amp I now use vintage paper in oil 4uF metal can caps (huge things) bypassed with Russian Teflon. Sounds really well I think 🙂
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Hi euro21
Ever do measurements on some polypropylene caps of the less expensive variety?
30mR @1Khz for the 1uF clarity seems decent, but I found some cheap china ones a few years back that seemed at least as good as those.
I never entertained the idea of making measurements besides the capacitance. They were good enough to persuade me to sell off a lot of "Boutique" stuff (Mostly Jensen but others too).
The only "Boutique" caps I didn't sell were cheaper EVO Mundorfs. They are pretty good for the price. I saved them for some things where you might see the capacitor. plus they were white with pretty red writing. My wife thought they were pretty. I think they cost 2 bucks each (crazy expensive, but what the heck). they definitely use polypropylene as the dielectric and aluminium as the foil.
Mundorf insists on putting oil in them. I guess they are EVO Oil... At least if the oil leaks out or dries up the polypropylene will still work.
If they came out with a cap made of camel ear wax, you can be certain that it would sell.
Ian
Ever do measurements on some polypropylene caps of the less expensive variety?
30mR @1Khz for the 1uF clarity seems decent, but I found some cheap china ones a few years back that seemed at least as good as those.
I never entertained the idea of making measurements besides the capacitance. They were good enough to persuade me to sell off a lot of "Boutique" stuff (Mostly Jensen but others too).
The only "Boutique" caps I didn't sell were cheaper EVO Mundorfs. They are pretty good for the price. I saved them for some things where you might see the capacitor. plus they were white with pretty red writing. My wife thought they were pretty. I think they cost 2 bucks each (crazy expensive, but what the heck). they definitely use polypropylene as the dielectric and aluminium as the foil.
Mundorf insists on putting oil in them. I guess they are EVO Oil... At least if the oil leaks out or dries up the polypropylene will still work.
If they came out with a cap made of camel ear wax, you can be certain that it would sell.
Ian
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Go for the cheapest Mundorf. Make sure they have polypropylene as the dielectric. I liked the EVO because they are not too darn long. Also my wife thinks they are pretty.
Or just buy a bunch of different cheap polypropylene caps online and try them out. 🙂
If you do some blind testing, be prepared for the ugliest (and maybe cheapest) duckling to win. That was the case for me at least.. A Suuuuper cheap (and ugly) china polyprop cap totally won. I think they are all gone now though... I might start looking for some new budget polyprop caps again though.
Oh yeah, and motor run caps do work. But they are BIG... I had some big GE caps. Great Sound. But too darn big.
Ian
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A load of crud. The guy designs very good speakers but he is in fact in the business of selling crossovers. And the more expensive the components, the fatter the markup.
Are is tests blind? Can he really compare dozens of different types of caps, assisted in order to make all the tests double blind AND with additional people to verify whether differences were audible? Mind you, complexity of keeping track of all types of capacitors notwithstanding, there is the additional factor that all the caps need to be well formed and kept as much active as possible. They must be in speakers in the same positions, in other words, you need two pairs of crossovers and a system to switch them on the fly. Not impossible, but he does not mention anything like that. If he does not do that, no subjective opinion can be considered as a fact - in other words describing an intrinsic property of the capacitor itself. I am not against subjectivism, but tests must be done properly.
teflon, polycabonate, and polypropylene came out 1,2,3 in the 1980 article about picking caps and the rest is history.....polyesters are not as good as the 1,2,3....so was the finding...
Hi Tony
Mr. Morgan Jones's book is also a very good reference. The differences between PTFE and Polypropylene are really small. I tried them before and they are very good but more costly and they tend to be larger than polypropylene film caps.
From Valve Amplifiers, 4th edition, page 267:
"As can be seen, the use of paper or polyester capacitors in valve amplifiers can only be justified in areas such as power supply decoupling where their capacitance deviation with frequency is irrelevant. Although not shown on the graph, electrolytic capacitors are even worse, and their 1 kHz capacitance is typically -10% compared to their DC capacitance."
I highly recommend Morgan's book.
Mr. Morgan Jones's book is also a very good reference. The differences between PTFE and Polypropylene are really small. I tried them before and they are very good but more costly and they tend to be larger than polypropylene film caps.
From Valve Amplifiers, 4th edition, page 267:
"As can be seen, the use of paper or polyester capacitors in valve amplifiers can only be justified in areas such as power supply decoupling where their capacitance deviation with frequency is irrelevant. Although not shown on the graph, electrolytic capacitors are even worse, and their 1 kHz capacitance is typically -10% compared to their DC capacitance."
I highly recommend Morgan's book.
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thanks, i am agnostic when it comes to capacitors, i go by technology, so that Wima MKT's are good for me.....polystyrenes are hard to get by if 0.01uf or so...polycarbonates are now obsolete, and Teflon are very expensive for me...
There was an old (mid-to-late 90's I believe) article somewhere in the internets with many types of film capacitors tested by the oscilloscope in the X/Y mode.
I'm not able to find it at the moment, but it was quite interesting to say the least. Seeing visible distortions introduced by the trendy capacitors types is kinda refreshing.
I'm not able to find it at the moment, but it was quite interesting to say the least. Seeing visible distortions introduced by the trendy capacitors types is kinda refreshing.
You're probably thinking of Steve Bench (whose contributions are getting harder to track down anymore)
The "Sound" of Capacitors
The only Mundorf film cap I would buy are the Supreme. I have discovered a very nice combo though, Russian MGBO bypass with 0.47uf Supreme. Together cheap & really beautiful sound.
Jensen capacitors are of very bad quality. High failure rate, bad (high loss) dialectrics and very expensive. If you like the inherent sound effect, a quality capacitor like a Wima MKP won't be your cup of tea.
Do they? Haven't bought Mundorfs in a while but at the time compared the oil filled S&G against the dry and by a significant margin preferred the dry variety.
Perhaps i am the only one with this preference but then again i also hate teflon 😀