Hi JVA
My speakers are finally done.
Quite happy with the way they turned out (also the misses says they're cute), what more do you want....!😀
As you say they sound a bit "forward and raspy" but the overall sound picture is quite pleasing. Have to do some more extensive listening before my final judgement.
Cheers
Walter
My speakers are finally done.
Quite happy with the way they turned out (also the misses says they're cute), what more do you want....!😀
As you say they sound a bit "forward and raspy" but the overall sound picture is quite pleasing. Have to do some more extensive listening before my final judgement.
Cheers
Walter
Attachments
Hi Walter
I believe the JX92s take a while to burn in, so that may account for the 'raspy' sound. The other point is to follow the recommended toe-in - 30 degrees, so the axis crosses well in front of the listening position. This compensates for the rise in HF response on-axis and contributes to a stable stereo image which will hold when you're off the centre line.
Happy new listening.
Colin
I believe the JX92s take a while to burn in, so that may account for the 'raspy' sound. The other point is to follow the recommended toe-in - 30 degrees, so the axis crosses well in front of the listening position. This compensates for the rise in HF response on-axis and contributes to a stable stereo image which will hold when you're off the centre line.
Happy new listening.
Colin
Hi Colin
Thanks. Those are small adjustable furniture feet with a stainless steel look. I discovered them while I was walking in our local DIY market. So the idea came on the spot to use a pair of those things instead of the normal wooden stand.
Gonna try the 30° toe-in position as you mention. In the way they are positioned now they are a bit picky regarding the listening position.
Do you know the values of the baffle step crossover that JVA mentioned a few posts back?
Cheers
Walter
Thanks. Those are small adjustable furniture feet with a stainless steel look. I discovered them while I was walking in our local DIY market. So the idea came on the spot to use a pair of those things instead of the normal wooden stand.
Gonna try the 30° toe-in position as you mention. In the way they are positioned now they are a bit picky regarding the listening position.
Do you know the values of the baffle step crossover that JVA mentioned a few posts back?
Cheers
Walter
Hi Walter,
I saw the picture of your Jordan Transmission Lines. Nice job. I especially like the metal legs. It really seems to add to the look of the speakers especially with the light color your using.
I also toed in my speakers so that they cross in front of my sitting position. This seemed to tone down the mid to upper frequencies somewhat. Also I used a simple passive network which is shown on Jordan's website. This is in accordance with the 13 Litre Transmission Line that you have built. It explains at the site what it really does. I built my crossover on the outside of the speaker in a small pine box as shown in the picture attached. Just in case your curious, I also added a super tweeter, an FT17H Fostex Super tweeter on top of the main speaker to enhance the upper frequency from 10,000 hertz and up. (see picture) On top of that I also built a subwoofer with two discontinued 125 Jordan bass speakers according to the Jordan website. It produced excellant bass. The bass speaker is quite large at 66 litres. I used a Hypex amplifier at 100 watts into 8 ohms. If your interested, I can give you more information on the tweeter and the sub.
Joe
I saw the picture of your Jordan Transmission Lines. Nice job. I especially like the metal legs. It really seems to add to the look of the speakers especially with the light color your using.
I also toed in my speakers so that they cross in front of my sitting position. This seemed to tone down the mid to upper frequencies somewhat. Also I used a simple passive network which is shown on Jordan's website. This is in accordance with the 13 Litre Transmission Line that you have built. It explains at the site what it really does. I built my crossover on the outside of the speaker in a small pine box as shown in the picture attached. Just in case your curious, I also added a super tweeter, an FT17H Fostex Super tweeter on top of the main speaker to enhance the upper frequency from 10,000 hertz and up. (see picture) On top of that I also built a subwoofer with two discontinued 125 Jordan bass speakers according to the Jordan website. It produced excellant bass. The bass speaker is quite large at 66 litres. I used a Hypex amplifier at 100 watts into 8 ohms. If your interested, I can give you more information on the tweeter and the sub.
Joe
Attachments
Joe,
nice speakers, are the passive networks really works? i mean it doesn't kill the highs? i mean if the setup is without the super T
i've been leaning to add super tweeter too, any experience with other super T? beyma cp21, maybe?
right now my jordans is in GM's ml-tl, i wonder if they would sing better with the networks on? right now i'm experiencing lack of bass, forwarded mids, and a rather brightness of the sound.
did u getting that kind of sonics?
cheers,
Henry
nice speakers, are the passive networks really works? i mean it doesn't kill the highs? i mean if the setup is without the super T
i've been leaning to add super tweeter too, any experience with other super T? beyma cp21, maybe?
right now my jordans is in GM's ml-tl, i wonder if they would sing better with the networks on? right now i'm experiencing lack of bass, forwarded mids, and a rather brightness of the sound.
did u getting that kind of sonics?
cheers,
Henry
The recommended frequency compensation for the VTL is R = 4.0 ohms, L = 2mH. Full details on the updated Jordan site at
http://www.ejjordan.co.uk/systems/jx92_system.html
I haven't heard it applied to the VTL but have heard the recommended compensation applied to Ted's 8 litre reflex design. Even used against a wall, it gave the sound more body and filled in the bass, leaving it overall better balanced.
Colin
http://www.ejjordan.co.uk/systems/jx92_system.html
I haven't heard it applied to the VTL but have heard the recommended compensation applied to Ted's 8 litre reflex design. Even used against a wall, it gave the sound more body and filled in the bass, leaving it overall better balanced.
Colin
Looking again at the description of the freq compensation on the Jordan page, it mentions a loss of efficiency. I didn't notice that on the example I heard - possibly the fuller bass fools the ear into thinking the sound level is similar. When my own cabinets are up and running, I'd like to have a play with this and weigh up the pros and cons. At least it's simple to do if it's all in an external box, as suggested earlier.
Colin
Colin
Colin , Henry
I added the passive network almost right away,I did not test the speakers without the network.The speakers did improve as time wore on.You may hear a slight voice honk, if so,stuff the bottom vents [ polly fill ] ,just enough to get rid of it ,it doesent take much.
The supertweeter added a little [ AIR ],to the highs,using a variable resistor and a Cap. [ 1.0 uf ],will blend in the tweeter to the Jordan.My only experience with supertweeters is the FT17H Fostex,which is cheap and not overly efficent as many supertweeters can be.
Good luck on your projects
Joe
I added the passive network almost right away,I did not test the speakers without the network.The speakers did improve as time wore on.You may hear a slight voice honk, if so,stuff the bottom vents [ polly fill ] ,just enough to get rid of it ,it doesent take much.
The supertweeter added a little [ AIR ],to the highs,using a variable resistor and a Cap. [ 1.0 uf ],will blend in the tweeter to the Jordan.My only experience with supertweeters is the FT17H Fostex,which is cheap and not overly efficent as many supertweeters can be.
Good luck on your projects
Joe
Hi JVA, Colin, Henry
Have been listening to the speakers with a 30° toe-in, and I must admit that the stereo image and the spatial aspect improved a lot.
Weird that a small adjustment of the speaker position has such an impact on the sound. I now moved the speakers to the bedroom and hooked them up to CD/tuner. They have been playing now for quite some time and I can say that the sound has a bit more body than in the beginning. That raspy, mid pronounced is less audible now.
Next thing to test is the R-L network.
Keep you posted.
Cheers
Walter
Have been listening to the speakers with a 30° toe-in, and I must admit that the stereo image and the spatial aspect improved a lot.
Weird that a small adjustment of the speaker position has such an impact on the sound. I now moved the speakers to the bedroom and hooked them up to CD/tuner. They have been playing now for quite some time and I can say that the sound has a bit more body than in the beginning. That raspy, mid pronounced is less audible now.
Next thing to test is the R-L network.
Keep you posted.
Cheers
Walter
Hi Walter
On www.ejjordan.co.uk there is (or was, I can't remember if it's still there) a good explanation of why the Jordan speakers are designed for such an extreme toe-in. (It's basically to compensate for the increased volume as you move closer to one side than the other.)
Glad to hear that the sound is improving and look forward to your report on the compensation network.
Colin
On www.ejjordan.co.uk there is (or was, I can't remember if it's still there) a good explanation of why the Jordan speakers are designed for such an extreme toe-in. (It's basically to compensate for the increased volume as you move closer to one side than the other.)
Glad to hear that the sound is improving and look forward to your report on the compensation network.
Colin
Hi all, I have been reading amazing things about the JX92S from Ted Jordan. I have been toying with building the 'standard' TL for these speakers on Mr Jordan's site for a while now.
What I am interested to learn is how these speakers would go in a home theatre setup? I am considering duplicating all 7 channels (L,C,R,LS,RS,LR,RR) based on these speakers so that I get a perfectly matched array all around
Any thoughts?
Obviously I will be using my Processor to do the crossing over for these speakers and have an SVS PB2+ sub to handle the bass. My room is largish, 5.2wx6.5dx2.5h meters. I use a Denon AVR3805.
What I am interested to learn is how these speakers would go in a home theatre setup? I am considering duplicating all 7 channels (L,C,R,LS,RS,LR,RR) based on these speakers so that I get a perfectly matched array all around
Any thoughts?
Obviously I will be using my Processor to do the crossing over for these speakers and have an SVS PB2+ sub to handle the bass. My room is largish, 5.2wx6.5dx2.5h meters. I use a Denon AVR3805.
my thoughts exactly. what i like about using a driver such as the JX92 (I have also considered Fostex's FX120 and FE108Sigma) is that one can install the side and rear speakers horizontally or vertically without affecting polar response.
one point of note: the JX92 might not have the HF response for ciritcal audio listening so one might want to add fountek ribbons to the front channels that can be switched out for HT use. Also
GM's ML-TL cabinet could be wall mounted (no baffle step required).
lastly: does the center channel have to also be a ML-TL? Is there a significant difference in the response of a ML-TL v/s sealed box? I was thinking of making 4 ML-TL boxes for front and rear and 1 sealed box (same dimensions as the ML-TL box but with the driver in the center of teh baffle) for the center.
one point of note: the JX92 might not have the HF response for ciritcal audio listening so one might want to add fountek ribbons to the front channels that can be switched out for HT use. Also
GM's ML-TL cabinet could be wall mounted (no baffle step required).
lastly: does the center channel have to also be a ML-TL? Is there a significant difference in the response of a ML-TL v/s sealed box? I was thinking of making 4 ML-TL boxes for front and rear and 1 sealed box (same dimensions as the ML-TL box but with the driver in the center of teh baffle) for the center.
Hi navin
In my opinion you don't need that a large cabinet for a center speaker.
A center speaker doesn't have to produce the lower octaves of the soundspectrum. It's working area is midbandish. It has to create the image that voices and stuff is coming from the screen.
GeWa
In my opinion you don't need that a large cabinet for a center speaker.
A center speaker doesn't have to produce the lower octaves of the soundspectrum. It's working area is midbandish. It has to create the image that voices and stuff is coming from the screen.
GeWa
navin said:
You certainly could go sealed with center, and with rear as well. WinISD sims give a 85 Hz f3 for a 7 L box; Jordan recommends a 3 L (square "15 cm sides all around" 😕
) box. You could go sealed all around (even fronts) and switch over to a sub below 85 Hz. I doubt you'd notice the difference; it might even improve - my Jx92s MLTL's play much better in the mids when I set the speakers to "small" and remove the bass load from them. Lots of discussion on this at the fullrange driver forum.
cheesehead
navin said:
Depends what you mean by critical - adding a tweeter will muck up the coherence and imaging but give extra sharpness to the top end, which may or may not be realistic. I've found the JX92 fine without a tweeter (Nelson Pass seems to think so too on his J-Lo article).
Re the centre speaker - because of the JX92's rising HF response, it is intended for listening off axis, so a smaller centre speaker would be easier to angle up (or down) to avoid that.
There is a piece about using the VTL design in home threatre on the Creative Sounds website (see distributors at www.ejjordan.co.uk/links)
Colin
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