Just to pass on my experiences with KEF 104/2 T33 Tweeters.
I have owned my Kef 104/2 since 1996. They are 1st revision? With Gold speaker connectors,Rubber bass unit surrounds but not the bi-wire.
I always felt the top end was lacking compared to the LS3/5a. I ended up using a pair of Tandy Linaeum Ribbon Tweeters bought cheap when Tandy UK closed down.
Have tried other tweeters in place of T33’s as per the many recommendations on the internet, Morel, Peerless et al but felt none kept the same smooth sound, most adding a lower treble hardness.
So to the point of this post. I recently fitted a pair of Mutant Euphony 6.5” speakers in the rear of my car, after 3 failed attempts at getting the sound right. These were excellent despite Mutants reputions for cheap speakers. Almost like the Kef B110 I had fitted as a temporary measure.
So had I two Tweeters spare from the kit. Size of the Silk Dome was identical to Kef T33. (Looked identical) with High power handling and at 4ohms, the specs looked good. Neodydium Magnets so much smaller diameter.
Well, fitted them with the casing and their diffuser grille which gives the ability to rotate axis of tweeter.
All can say is wow! Sound is like before but with a beneficial increase in the upper registers.
These are discontinued now but should be readily available. I Paid about uk£35 for the whole set of 6.5” Tweeters Crossovers as a Car kit.
Hope this helps.
I have owned my Kef 104/2 since 1996. They are 1st revision? With Gold speaker connectors,Rubber bass unit surrounds but not the bi-wire.
I always felt the top end was lacking compared to the LS3/5a. I ended up using a pair of Tandy Linaeum Ribbon Tweeters bought cheap when Tandy UK closed down.
Have tried other tweeters in place of T33’s as per the many recommendations on the internet, Morel, Peerless et al but felt none kept the same smooth sound, most adding a lower treble hardness.
So to the point of this post. I recently fitted a pair of Mutant Euphony 6.5” speakers in the rear of my car, after 3 failed attempts at getting the sound right. These were excellent despite Mutants reputions for cheap speakers. Almost like the Kef B110 I had fitted as a temporary measure.
So had I two Tweeters spare from the kit. Size of the Silk Dome was identical to Kef T33. (Looked identical) with High power handling and at 4ohms, the specs looked good. Neodydium Magnets so much smaller diameter.
Well, fitted them with the casing and their diffuser grille which gives the ability to rotate axis of tweeter.
All can say is wow! Sound is like before but with a beneficial increase in the upper registers.
These are discontinued now but should be readily available. I Paid about uk£35 for the whole set of 6.5” Tweeters Crossovers as a Car kit.
Hope this helps.
I pulled the tweeters from my KEF C60 and there is a blue wire and a brown wire. Do you know which one is the positive? There are no markings.
Hi,
Brown = positive (live) and Blue = negative (neutral) is standard (mains) wiring.
rgds, sreten.
Brown = positive (live) and Blue = negative (neutral) is standard (mains) wiring.
rgds, sreten.
Thanks for the information. Are you sure of this? I have another source telling me the opposite. I don't suppose there is a way to test. I just replaced my T33 tweeters with Morel MDT30S-4. They sound pretty good out of the box. I'm going to break them in for 48 hours before I give them a good listen.
The Madisound Speaker Store
The Madisound Speaker Store
You can test tweeter phase by connecting across a 1.5V AA battery and watching which way the dome moves. Don't use a higher voltage.
OK I figured out how to test with a multi meter and an AA battery. The blue wire is positive and the brown is negative (ground). I attached the + lead from the meter to the + jack on the back of the speaker. I touched the + side of the battery to the blue wire for the tweeter and the - lead from the meter to the - side of the AA battery. I get a 1.4 read. If I use the brown wire from the tweeter to the + side of the battery i get a -1.4 read. - meaning out of phase. So KEF C60 speakers blue = +, brown = -.
Kef C60 Wire Polarity
I just re-capped a C60 crossover, and I can confirm, based on the crossover markings:
Blue = Negative (-)
Brown = Positive (+)
Purple = Negative (-)
Red = Positive (+)
I just re-capped a C60 crossover, and I can confirm, based on the crossover markings:
Blue = Negative (-)
Brown = Positive (+)
Purple = Negative (-)
Red = Positive (+)
Hello !
I bought a second hand KEF C30, and the blue was connected to the red pin of the tweeter in both speakers ... BUT i don´t know if someone opened them before..
Anyway, if we look at the crossovers, it´s noticable that the Blue Wire is connected do the Black Connector in the rear of these KEF C30
So, i´m confused 🙂
I bought a second hand KEF C30, and the blue was connected to the red pin of the tweeter in both speakers ... BUT i don´t know if someone opened them before..
Anyway, if we look at the crossovers, it´s noticable that the Blue Wire is connected do the Black Connector in the rear of these KEF C30
So, i´m confused 🙂
Resistor values?
Hi! I tried downloading the schematic on this thread, but it’s damn near unreadable. I’ve got a bad crossover in one of my C60’s and just on visual inspection I’ve got blown resistors at locations R1-R3 & R6-7. I realize this is a few years old, but I’m hoping you had the values you used when you recapped? Thanks!
I just re-capped a C60 crossover, and I can confirm, based on the crossover markings:
Blue = Negative (-)
Brown = Positive (+)
Purple = Negative (-)
Red = Positive (+)
Hi! I tried downloading the schematic on this thread, but it’s damn near unreadable. I’ve got a bad crossover in one of my C60’s and just on visual inspection I’ve got blown resistors at locations R1-R3 & R6-7. I realize this is a few years old, but I’m hoping you had the values you used when you recapped? Thanks!
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