• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Looking for information on 1956 Montgomery Ward Airline Console Radio/Phonogragh

And while talking safety, replace the power cord with one that has a polarized molded plug. An inexpensive extension cord with the female end cut off is a great option. Another item for safety is adding a fuse to the hot side of the line supply.
And any times, the NEUTRAL side of the line cord is wired to the power switch on older equipment.
That leaves the chassis HOT, even when turned off.
Re-wiring to break the HOT side is needed for proper safety and code reasons.
 
Thank you guys for chipping in here. I think PotentiallyIncorrect may have it, the amplifier looks to be later or differing 6 tube 6BE6 SE output closely matching the GAA-2509C. Still haven't quite got the exact model number, but I think the GAA-2509C schematic is going to be my starting point for research.
The Tube Location Guide, was still glued to the inside of the cabinet, and matches the amplifier inside. Can Cap is going, Filter Cap is going and old wax paper caps have orange drop replacements on order, and should be here within the week. I've been researching and the polarized two-prong , or even the grounded plug end are possibilities, as I plan on adding a bluetooth receiver to the existing AUX or TAPE input path, adding a nice touch of modern functionality that can easily be removed to return this to "original" state if need be. I've seen other builds similar to mine. GUITAROLOGIST on YouTube has a VERY close model, that he refurbished, record player included.
 
And any times, the NEUTRAL side of the line cord is wired to the power switch on older equipment.
That leaves the chassis HOT, even when turned off.
Re-wiring to break the HOT side is needed for proper safety and code reasons.
Switched neutral-
Just like below kit I built around 12 years old. Still remember 'tingle' when touching metal chassis when powered up
 

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Thanks to PotentiallyIncorrect, I was able to locate the danger cap, looks to be a 0.05 uF 600V Black Ceramic Disc Cap. with no safety rating. Looks like I'll be replacing with a 0.047 uF Y2 rated safety cap along with a 2A inline fuse to the HOT line of my new polarized cord, or 3-prong with ground wire capped, should complete my safety requirements while keeping RF/EM noise reduction, correct?
 

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Happy to report that the old PIO caps are out(eating up the last of my wick and then some), New caps have been polarity checked, and are in, It would seem that this amp WAS serviced at some point in the past, and from the looks of it, C4 was reversed running positive to ground, and, oh yea, the previous tech had broken the tab on 40v pin 6 of the 12AU7 and just tacked it back with a big 'ol ugly heaping glob of solder, which I had wicked up thinking it to be merely an unsightly drip, was thus unpleasantly surprised at finding the wobbly *** dismembered appendage dangling from the pre-amp tube. After having alleviated said pin in a much less unsightly manner, I set off to check the range on my resistors....I should have left well enough alone.....
All of the 1950's carbon composite resistors in the radio circuit were out of range anywhere from 35 percent to just flat out open shorts, and it's the same thing on the amplifier circuit. There's also a missing 10uF capacitor between that should have been added in between the 220k(actual reading was over 498k!!!) and pin 3 of the 6BL7 output tube.

The good news, I have extra 10uF 450v caps since my min order was 10 and I only needed one for the can cap replacement, along with the two F&T 40uF there as well.
The bad news, I'm out of wick, and I don't have enough resistors and I don't feel like using scavenged materials on this if I don't have to, so it's off to Amazon, if my wife'll let me spend more money on things, I'll upgrade to 1w 1% metal films and bring EVERYTHING back in tolerance. Until next time ladies and gents.
 
Happy to report that the can cap is out, the new PS caps and voltage drop resistors are in and we are testing steady at 250, 200, and 165V. Amplifier section has finished round one of new 1% tolerance resistors. Time for a test.

Power on. No smoke. No uncanny heat or smells. Filaments up on all tubes. Just the faintest hum from the drivers. WAAAAAAAYYY quieter than I expected. Volume up. There's the familiar AM squeel. Tune in and find some music. Holy crap. This old thing sound gorgeous! Bass and treble to spare on the tone control. A little scratch on treble and volume pots. And no change on my input selection switch....unable to switch from radio to Phono or Aux.
I guess this is where I start next..