MC/Staubli don't list the contact resistance of the plugs that I used. However the brand you recommend (Hirschman) do make plugs like the MC/Staubli ones, i.e., with the separate contact spring around the central 4mm pin...& they state 3milliOhm contact resistance also.
This is the data sheet for the stacking version...
https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1783368.pdf
I found two types: Press-in socket EB4-IF/A (machined brass) & Press-in socket EB4-IF/N(rolled brass).
Are these the ones you refer to? I couldn't find 6.3mm push tabs.
For simplicity Press-in socket LB4-A, the uninsulated version also looks interesting.
Did you also use Plug L-400 (nickel) for your speaker leads?
Very nice hardware.
I found their distributor in Australia.
To kit a pair of Loudspeakers & the speaker end of my speaker cables it would come to AUD$300.
In the spec sheet I should have written "economical rather than "well priced". 😱
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I used:-
| 22.1025+22.2260-22 (Farnell, 1085462) | MC/Staubli 4mm Shrouded test plug, Red. Gold plated brass body 32A, 1000V | £13.22 | 1 pk of 5 | £13.22 |
| 22.1025+22.2260-21 (Farnell, 1085462) | MC/Staubli 4mm Shrouded test plug, Black. Gold plated brass body 32A, 1000V | £13.50 | 1 pk of 5 | £13.50 |
| 23.3060-21 (CPC CN15676) | MC/Staubli 4mm Shrouded test socket, Black. Gold plated brass body, 6.3mm tag | £11.14 | 1 pk of 5 | £11.14 |
| 23.3060-22 (CPC CN15675) | MC/Staubli 4mm Shrouded test socket, Red. Gold plated brass body, 6.3mm tag | £11.65 | 1 pk of 5 | £11.65 |
The plugs are solder only, they do make grub screw (no solder) versions..Prices are 2021yr, Full parts list here:-
You're very fortunate to live where you do.
Over here the price for each piece is six times greater than what you pay per piece.
The price here per individual item is substantially higher than what you pay for a packet of 5.
Double checked & actually the prices were December 2020....not 2021 as I stated in the post above..
Now days I wince when I go to the hardware store for brass, stainless, or sometimes chrome. Then I saw the price of gun screws!!! In their defense, these screws are made from some material not of this earth. It is extremely strong doesn't cut or bend easily, and grinds hard. I used them on a project their appearance. Thank God I only had to buy two of them.
Pure copper parts/bolts in this little cow town all are but nonexistent, as well as red brass. Oh well.
Pure copper parts/bolts in this little cow town all are but nonexistent, as well as red brass. Oh well.
That's why reclaiming used parts is like finding gold.
Parts used to be of high quality content.
Now, when I see junk, I focus on the parts rather than the whole.
At this very moment I'm harvesting complete Inductors ripped out of a pair of derelict B&W Loudspeakers.
Made 40 years ago, at a time when everything was over engineered, these include some air core & some iron core examples.
From Dave's posts I'm also exploring 4mm female test sockets to use as speaker binding posts.
The extremely expensive ones have high purity copper or brass, quality plating with listed content standards & precision tolerances.
Say no more about the extremely cheap parts coming from the East.
I purchased stainless steel nuts a year ago.
Not convinced that they were as advertised I did some tests.
Firstly they failed the magnetic test, but also failed the vinegar solution test.
It took a year but yesterday I noticed tarnish (brownish rust).
I wasn't aware that stainless steel rusts.
Recycled metal parts may have an element of oxidation, but if you pick through individual parts you'll be better served than buying new garbage.
Naturally, if you're building showcase Speakers, buying quality at expensive prices might be worthwhile on some projects.
"Stainless Steel" is a marketing name from the cutlery industry. And I am sure you have seen low-price SS teaspoons develop rust-pits after wet contact with plain steel.
The magnetic properties vary.
Engineering grade "SS" is sold as "high temperature" because it won't rot too fast in utility boilers and catalytic converters.
SS should have a lot of Chromium but I'm sure some makers cheat.
"Both adjectives, stainless and rustless, are duly recognized and accepted as exaggerations: stainless steel is not literally incapable of rusting, but its established name is "stainless steel" nonetheless." https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stainless_steel
There are masses of different grades of stainless steel, & all stainless will rust/mark given the right conditions...seen it myself!
You need to select the grade that will cope with your conditions...
https://www.unifiedalloys.com/blog/stainless-grades-families
In nuts, bolts, washers etc its usually marked as A2 or A4......A4 being commonly known as 316...
https://www.accu.co.uk/p/35-stainless-steels
Yes in the past these turned out to wear out faster than the other type. Also when made by other brands these were not as sturdy as the spring type.
The material is thin and it is a separate part. Surprised to see it still has Beryllium in it.
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