I assume that most of us here have the RPi2/3 + Sabre DAC + Kali reclocker.
Since the Sabre DAC is in a slave mode, wouldn't it be sufficient just have a decent PS to the Kali and let it supply to the DAC?
Will take out the SBC jumper and feed a separate 5V supply to the RPi.
This way, i will just need 2xDIYinHK_0.8uv-LT3042-LDO as they can pump out up to 500mA.
Greg, soundcheck or any of the gurus, comments?
Since the Sabre DAC is in a slave mode, wouldn't it be sufficient just have a decent PS to the Kali and let it supply to the DAC?
Will take out the SBC jumper and feed a separate 5V supply to the RPi.
This way, i will just need 2xDIYinHK_0.8uv-LT3042-LDO as they can pump out up to 500mA.
Greg, soundcheck or any of the gurus, comments?
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Yep. 2 supplies.
One for Sabre and Kali.
And the 2nd for the PI.
That's what I currently also use.
There are different approaches do that though.
1. The one you suggest.
2. Splitting 5V before the Kali/Mambo
I basically run 2.
On top of that I removed both Mamboberry onboard LDOs.
1. Because I'm feeding the master clock from Kali there's
no need for the MB clock and its LDO. ( I removed both)
2. I'm running Ales reg because
a. on paper its noise floor is lower then the Mambo LDO.
b. 3.6V is my and many others preferred choice for Sabre AVCC
(Note: DIYINHK 3042 comes with 3.3V only!)
c. modifications are much easier to apply.
d. and now I have the power input on the left side.
@leflu
What's ANTX LDO?
I established a starground right after my Rifa buffercaps. I merged all grounds (Sabre/Kali/PI)
at one place (I use Wago terminals). I had them separated before.
I thought the GPIO header would actually make a nice starground!?!?
(I still kept/keep the amp ground separated.)
Somehow above approach made a difference. (Any other recommendations are welcome)
One for Sabre and Kali.
And the 2nd for the PI.
That's what I currently also use.
There are different approaches do that though.
1. The one you suggest.
2. Splitting 5V before the Kali/Mambo
I basically run 2.
On top of that I removed both Mamboberry onboard LDOs.
1. Because I'm feeding the master clock from Kali there's
no need for the MB clock and its LDO. ( I removed both)
2. I'm running Ales reg because
a. on paper its noise floor is lower then the Mambo LDO.
b. 3.6V is my and many others preferred choice for Sabre AVCC
(Note: DIYINHK 3042 comes with 3.3V only!)
c. modifications are much easier to apply.
d. and now I have the power input on the left side.
@leflu
What's ANTX LDO?
I established a starground right after my Rifa buffercaps. I merged all grounds (Sabre/Kali/PI)
at one place (I use Wago terminals). I had them separated before.
I thought the GPIO header would actually make a nice starground!?!?
(I still kept/keep the amp ground separated.)
Somehow above approach made a difference. (Any other recommendations are welcome)
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Just learned that Ales will launch LT3042 based LDOs soon.
BTW:
Did I actually tell you, that I'm still running my USB GBIT ethernet dongle @300MBIT?
Did I also tell you, that I use an Audioquest Jitterbug that I had around from
good old USB audio times as USB filter for that ethernet dongle?
BTW:
Did I actually tell you, that I'm still running my USB GBIT ethernet dongle @300MBIT?
Did I also tell you, that I use an Audioquest Jitterbug that I had around from
good old USB audio times as USB filter for that ethernet dongle?
that's right, on Fleabay right now: LT3042 DUAL power supply DAC preamplifier headphone amplifier | eBay
soundcheck,
Where did you buy the mamboberry dac? Straight from Greece or is a shop in Germany selling them. I'm looking to buy one in Netherlands. Wish the HiFi DAC was still available. Will the Mamboberry LS be much better than the Audiophonics 9023 XTCO?
Or is the Boss the way to go now? I have no intention to use any kind of reclocking and I plan to run Moode.
Where did you buy the mamboberry dac? Straight from Greece or is a shop in Germany selling them. I'm looking to buy one in Netherlands. Wish the HiFi DAC was still available. Will the Mamboberry LS be much better than the Audiophonics 9023 XTCO?
Or is the Boss the way to go now? I have no intention to use any kind of reclocking and I plan to run Moode.
I'd go for the Boss. IMO the best "stock" HAT-DAC solution.
It comes with 3*LT3042!
Not any of the other HATs I looked at comes with a similar power handling. Clocking scheme/quality is very nice too.
I implemented the driver into the Moode kernel.
Not sure when Tim is going to release it.
Mambo and Audiophonics V3 seem to be comparable.
The Mambo LS would be the better deal though.
My Mambo was shipped from Greece.
However. After all I've done to that device (Mambo) I can hardly
recommend the stock version anymore, at least if soundquality is your ultimate goal.
It comes with 3*LT3042!
Not any of the other HATs I looked at comes with a similar power handling. Clocking scheme/quality is very nice too.
I implemented the driver into the Moode kernel.
Not sure when Tim is going to release it.
Mambo and Audiophonics V3 seem to be comparable.
The Mambo LS would be the better deal though.
My Mambo was shipped from Greece.
However. After all I've done to that device (Mambo) I can hardly
recommend the stock version anymore, at least if soundquality is your ultimate goal.
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Thx DimDim for pointing that out.
I immediately had a closer look at it myself and realized the 5907s.
Then I contacted cdsgames.
Bottom line:
I need to correct my earlier statement regarding Boss LDOs.
cdsgames ( finally ) confirmed that the Boss makes use of
1 * LT3042 for the analog section
and
4 * TI LP5907
Sorry for that confusion.
I immediately had a closer look at it myself and realized the 5907s.
Then I contacted cdsgames.
Bottom line:
I need to correct my earlier statement regarding Boss LDOs.
cdsgames ( finally
) confirmed that the Boss makes use of 1 * LT3042 for the analog section
and
4 * TI LP5907
Sorry for that confusion.
You can't really tell just by looking at a DAC if it runs in master mode. For starters, you have to look at the actual DAC chip that is used and determine whether it supports master mode. But even if the DAC chips supports master mode, it is not sure that it is running in master mode since it will also support slave mode.
To run in master mode it will definitely need to have on-board clocks and it will also need driver support on the RPi side.
But just the existance of an on-board clock (or two) is no guarantee that the DAC is running as master.
So your best bet is to just google the DAC you're interested in.
To run in master mode it will definitely need to have on-board clocks and it will also need driver support on the RPi side.
But just the existance of an on-board clock (or two) is no guarantee that the DAC is running as master.
So your best bet is to just google the DAC you're interested in.
I'm running two Mambos (Mambo LS/RPI 3 & Mambo DAC +/RPI 2B).
Both are perfectly synchronized using the moode Audio with advanced squeezelite Option. (@Tim & soundcheck: Thanks for the perfect Job ).
The LS combo is using the alsa equalizer.
I'm planning to upgrade one of the Mambos with the Kali reclocker. The other one I will only upgrade using a new clock (NDK NZ2520SD).
(one sits in the living room the other one in the kitchen and my wife will not notice the difference anyway)
Question is now:
Will I get a sync problem or not (Kali and no Kali)?
Any experience?
Both are perfectly synchronized using the moode Audio with advanced squeezelite Option. (@Tim & soundcheck: Thanks for the perfect Job ).
The LS combo is using the alsa equalizer.
I'm planning to upgrade one of the Mambos with the Kali reclocker. The other one I will only upgrade using a new clock (NDK NZ2520SD).
(one sits in the living room the other one in the kitchen and my wife will not notice the difference anyway
)Question is now:
Will I get a sync problem or not (Kali and no Kali)?
Any experience?
U don't have to remove the parts.
E.g. Greg isolated the resistor from the local clock first.
On my final layout.
I
1. removed the parts u have in circles
2. and also removed the 2 caps close by
3. moved the damping resistor to the pin header - to have it at the I2S entry
4. used a coax, which requires ground connection on both sides
Good luck.
E.g. Greg isolated the resistor from the local clock first.
On my final layout.
I
1. removed the parts u have in circles
2. and also removed the 2 caps close by
3. moved the damping resistor to the pin header - to have it at the I2S entry
4. used a coax, which requires ground connection on both sides
Good luck.
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