Hi,
I recently bought a paire of Onken enclosure for Alpair 7.
As I had already built FH3, FHXL , Pensil, I wanted something different and decided to buy a pair of MAOP 7...the last project ;-)
Well, not sure if I want to keep this enclosure or go back to FH3....I may be tempted by a WAW project.
What are the best option regarding the onken enclosure?
Keeping the Onken and build another onken WAW?
Or a brand new project?
Crossing must be analogue
Thanks for your help.
I recently bought a paire of Onken enclosure for Alpair 7.
As I had already built FH3, FHXL , Pensil, I wanted something different and decided to buy a pair of MAOP 7...the last project ;-)
Well, not sure if I want to keep this enclosure or go back to FH3....I may be tempted by a WAW project.
What are the best option regarding the onken enclosure?
Keeping the Onken and build another onken WAW?
Or a brand new project?
Crossing must be analogue
Thanks for your help.
Hi,
Can you measure the footprint of the box?
There are no doubt that there are good midwoofers that could be used in a push-push wooferBase for that particular Mar-Ken. We have dbuiltone some along the same lines and drawn more.
Here the small one (these are 4 boxes)
The Mar-Ken for the A7 is differen tthan that of the A7.3. The A7 MAOP fits into the latter so if you have a box for the former it won’t be tuned quite right.
The miniOnkens have a very specific tuning which means they only go as low as they go, but the bass that is there is articulate & elegant. They borrow the long, high ratio vents (also makes for a solid side panel) from an onken, but they ar enot onkens having a different tuning.
dave
Can you measure the footprint of the box?
There are no doubt that there are good midwoofers that could be used in a push-push wooferBase for that particular Mar-Ken. We have dbuiltone some along the same lines and drawn more.
Here the small one (these are 4 boxes)
The Mar-Ken for the A7 is differen tthan that of the A7.3. The A7 MAOP fits into the latter so if you have a box for the former it won’t be tuned quite right.
The miniOnkens have a very specific tuning which means they only go as low as they go, but the bass that is there is articulate & elegant. They borrow the long, high ratio vents (also makes for a solid side panel) from an onken, but they ar enot onkens having a different tuning.
dave
I’ll have a look and see what i have and contact Scott to see aht can be done with drivers you can get handily where you are (the 1st one i would look at woud be the SilverFlute W14 but it is Madisound’s housebrand and shipping might exceed cost of drivers. A12pw (a single) might work as well (it would have to be the folded ML-TL) with a touch bit lower extension (half an octave).
I am a bit tied up at the moment, not having not aquired a required CAD upgrade (not for lack of trying) so i can’t go llo at everything or play with what i have done already.
dave
I am a bit tied up at the moment, not having not aquired a required CAD upgrade (not for lack of trying) so i can’t go llo at everything or play with what i have done already.
dave
Box would be wider than the Mar-Kens.
http://wodendesign.com/downloads/A12pw-folded-ml-tl-extents.pdf
The ML-TL in Tysen could be adapted to the right width, but it is already the right depth. A fatter TL might be doable, or a triple (wither 3 x 4Ω for a 12Ω load, or 3 x 16Ω for a 5.3 Ω load).
A12pw anechoic F10 about 25 Hz, the W14 line about 35 Hz.
Those are the easy ones.
dave
Thanks again Dave,
I can live with different width, remember me all the french mini Onken project from Focal in the 80's.
I guess I will go for it.
Any tips regarding crossover?
I can live with different width, remember me all the french mini Onken project from Focal in the 80's.
I guess I will go for it.
Any tips regarding crossover?
I can do the crossover if you can measure them, that is not an issue. I did many.
I did do a waw with the 10.3 and a scanspeak woofer and the woofer best is a bit more efficient (2-3dB) than the fullrange i noticed. So if you use the 12PW it may be needed to use 2 woofers. I had to pad it down with a lpad in mine as both are more or less the same efficient. If you want only one driver and no lpad, i would use a driver like a Dayton RS225-4 or an SB23NRXS45-4 that are very good woofer that are more efficient.
I did do a waw with the 10.3 and a scanspeak woofer and the woofer best is a bit more efficient (2-3dB) than the fullrange i noticed. So if you use the 12PW it may be needed to use 2 woofers. I had to pad it down with a lpad in mine as both are more or less the same efficient. If you want only one driver and no lpad, i would use a driver like a Dayton RS225-4 or an SB23NRXS45-4 that are very good woofer that are more efficient.
Dave & waxx thanks for your help
actually my closet is empty, so from scratch.
So Dave, you prefer something like a minidsp to pass the woofer (MAOP is untouched if I use 2x Alpair 12?)
I guess the use of a couple of alpair means two enclosures ?
My room (actually my bedroom) is small, around 3*4m but with an interesting ceiling , the best room for music.
My 2 cents, would be easier to start with a new enclosure (FH3?) going lower?
@waxx I've a minidsp UMIK, so I can measure them (need to learn more about that)
actually my closet is empty, so from scratch.
So Dave, you prefer something like a minidsp to pass the woofer (MAOP is untouched if I use 2x Alpair 12?)
I guess the use of a couple of alpair means two enclosures ?
My room (actually my bedroom) is small, around 3*4m but with an interesting ceiling , the best room for music.
My 2 cents, would be easier to start with a new enclosure (FH3?) going lower?
@waxx I've a minidsp UMIK, so I can measure them (need to learn more about that)
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My first choice for line level preamp is a PLLXO. Then 1 of the 2 Nelson Pass XOs in the diyAudio Store.
miniDSP is very verstaile but for really good sonics you need to get the 24/96 (still no 24/192) and your own DACs.
If you biamp you don’t have to worry too much about different sensitivities.
dave
miniDSP is very verstaile but for really good sonics you need to get the 24/96 (still no 24/192) and your own DACs.
If you biamp you don’t have to worry too much about different sensitivities.
dave
well, i'm not a fan of those digital amps, but if you like them, a full digital setup can be it. Just remember that if you use the minidsp, the ADC and DAC are their weak points, and for the best setup use external ones. I'm planning a monitor setup with digital out and dsp also, and if i will use minidsp, i'll use the digital only one and get a pair of toppings D30 dac's to do the conversion or so. Those are cheap and very good.