I don't yet have a ballast, but I've seen a great deal on an M58 at my local hydrponics store, its used so its dead cheap.
My question is not, will it work with the HQI bulb, but are there any good bulbs it will work with? I'm gonna look through the philips and sylvania sites this evening, just thought there might be someone with this kind of setup.
Oh and having 2 desktop lcds is so much fun, I dunno if I'm gonna be able to put this baby under the knife.
My question is not, will it work with the HQI bulb, but are there any good bulbs it will work with? I'm gonna look through the philips and sylvania sites this evening, just thought there might be someone with this kind of setup.
Oh and having 2 desktop lcds is so much fun, I dunno if I'm gonna be able to put this baby under the knife.
n8
heya n8, the 120/277v rating is the input voltage for the ballast not the ballast output to the light, the rated average 290watts is the rated input wattage that the ballast uses from your power source, ie the power point, the ballast will output 250w to the bulb but it needs an average of 290watts to do so, unfortunatley there isnt any info that i can see on your ballast in the pics but ill run up a search on it and see if i can find any data, i think it should work in my eyes but time will soon tell the story, the m58 is just the ansi code, id forget that for now cos we will find out the technical way if it will work, its probally the same as mikkinners but just a different ansi code for a different lamp socket.
Trev
heya n8, the 120/277v rating is the input voltage for the ballast not the ballast output to the light, the rated average 290watts is the rated input wattage that the ballast uses from your power source, ie the power point, the ballast will output 250w to the bulb but it needs an average of 290watts to do so, unfortunatley there isnt any info that i can see on your ballast in the pics but ill run up a search on it and see if i can find any data, i think it should work in my eyes but time will soon tell the story, the m58 is just the ansi code, id forget that for now cos we will find out the technical way if it will work, its probally the same as mikkinners but just a different ansi code for a different lamp socket.
Trev
I found this site by accident, i was searchign for m80 ballasts and foudna link to this page. I was looking for lights for my aquarium.
Anyway. i see you guys are looking for HQI ballasts and bulbs. I saw this was a DIY audio forum and not sure what exactly you guys are doing with this but just to let you in on a few details about these bulbs and ballasts.
The electronics from hellolights.com and icecap have no flicker whatsoever i use both with many differnt brands of bulbs. they also consume far less energy and produce alot less heat. they are small and super lightweight compared to there magnetic counterparts.
both magnetic HQI (M80) and electronic will fire both mogul bulbs as well as DE HQI bulbs.
If you are using a DE HQI bulb please know that they give off a LARGE amount of UV radiation because the bulb itself is not made of glass but rather quartz so it does not filter an UV. The main problem is UV-C wavelength which can do considerable damage to skin and eyes and long term affects could be very very dangerous. I know if i put them on my tank everythign would be dead in a matter of days unless i used a glass shield over it. Also they put out an enormous amount of heat 500 degrees plus so dont mount these near any wood or plastic. and keep them cool with a fan.
Not sure if you had any of this info, if you did sorry for assuming you werent aware. If not im glad i could help. i hope i saved some peopels health.
BTW what the heck are you guys doing with 250watt halide bulbs anyway? these thing will temp blind you if you look into them they are super bright.
Anyway. i see you guys are looking for HQI ballasts and bulbs. I saw this was a DIY audio forum and not sure what exactly you guys are doing with this but just to let you in on a few details about these bulbs and ballasts.
The electronics from hellolights.com and icecap have no flicker whatsoever i use both with many differnt brands of bulbs. they also consume far less energy and produce alot less heat. they are small and super lightweight compared to there magnetic counterparts.
both magnetic HQI (M80) and electronic will fire both mogul bulbs as well as DE HQI bulbs.
If you are using a DE HQI bulb please know that they give off a LARGE amount of UV radiation because the bulb itself is not made of glass but rather quartz so it does not filter an UV. The main problem is UV-C wavelength which can do considerable damage to skin and eyes and long term affects could be very very dangerous. I know if i put them on my tank everythign would be dead in a matter of days unless i used a glass shield over it. Also they put out an enormous amount of heat 500 degrees plus so dont mount these near any wood or plastic. and keep them cool with a fan.
Not sure if you had any of this info, if you did sorry for assuming you werent aware. If not im glad i could help. i hope i saved some peopels health.
BTW what the heck are you guys doing with 250watt halide bulbs anyway? these thing will temp blind you if you look into them they are super bright.
Thanks for the info
Thanks for the info wedfr,
We are using 250w MH lights for DIY LCD projectors. With a dismantled LCD monitor, an enclosure, some optics and a bright light source you can have large screen projection computer/movie/TV images. This forum is for discussion of the various issues related to the construction of such devices.
Safety can never be mentioned enough though, treat these powerful light sources like the sun and never look at them directly or unshielded.
Thanks for the info wedfr,
We are using 250w MH lights for DIY LCD projectors. With a dismantled LCD monitor, an enclosure, some optics and a bright light source you can have large screen projection computer/movie/TV images. This forum is for discussion of the various issues related to the construction of such devices.
Safety can never be mentioned enough though, treat these powerful light sources like the sun and never look at them directly or unshielded.
nmd
sorry nmd i missed that post, i dont have a ansi on mine, the voltage on my ballast is 240v, its made in spain and im not sure if u could get it in the states on 120v but the model number is SAPE-HSE AF 15/24/SR - R and its made by LAYRTON, the socket is just a g12 socket not sure of the number of that but i can get that if need be, sorry for the late post.
Trev
sorry nmd i missed that post, i dont have a ansi on mine, the voltage on my ballast is 240v, its made in spain and im not sure if u could get it in the states on 120v but the model number is SAPE-HSE AF 15/24/SR - R and its made by LAYRTON, the socket is just a g12 socket not sure of the number of that but i can get that if need be, sorry for the late post.
Trev
Hey, I just found this site that sells HID ballast kits. sound like some pretty good deals to me. Anyone know a cheaper place?
http://www.atlaslightingsupply.com/MHBallast.html
Later
http://www.atlaslightingsupply.com/MHBallast.html
Later
Hello!
I decided to build projector .Problem is that how to power up the lamp.
I need transformator(220V->120V)..but what is the other thing needed to start lamp up,which creates about 30kV arc(very familliar to capaticor)?
Dean
I decided to build projector .Problem is that how to power up the lamp.
I need transformator(220V->120V)..but what is the other thing needed to start lamp up,which creates about 30kV arc(very familliar to capaticor)?
Dean
I checked my local electrical supply (near me I have Standard Electric or Delande Lighting) and found the prices to be about the same ~ $50 (plus no shipping charge).
mccamp82 said:
There are pulse start and probe start ballasts. The pulse start ballast uses an ignitor to give an initial voltage bump to the lamp to start it. Its kind of like the ignition coil in a car that bumps the voltage to make an arc across the spark plugs.
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