You're welcome 
Thanks for the extra information there. I still don't regard the Trynergies as finished, so I'm experimenting while I do...possibly as an alternative to the speakers I'm using for television at the moment.
The recording of 'Shape of My Heart' really sold me on this design. At the 0.4x high, 0.33x wide dimensions, what should the low frequency crossover to my subs be, or that you recommend?
Thanks for the extra information there. I still don't regard the Trynergies as finished, so I'm experimenting while I do...possibly as an alternative to the speakers I'm using for television at the moment.
The recording of 'Shape of My Heart' really sold me on this design. At the 0.4x high, 0.33x wide dimensions, what should the low frequency crossover to my subs be, or that you recommend?
You're welcome
Thanks for the extra information there. I still don't regard the Trynergies as finished, so I'm experimenting while I do...possibly as an alternative to the speakers I'm using for television at the moment.
The recording of 'Shape of My Heart' really sold me on this design. At the 0.4x high, 0.33x wide dimensions, what should the low frequency crossover to my subs be, or that you recommend?
I think the -3dB point will be around 77Hz. Should be perfect for crossing over with typical subs.
I use the diameter of a roll of box packaging tape as a cutting template for the TC9FD. I think those are a 3.00 in standard ID. You are right, the specs do not give a diameter and the PE website gives it incorrectly as 3.3in dia.
Funny enough I picked 3 inch diameter based off the given dimensions and subtracting a few millimeters for clearance. Good to know I was on the right track.
I'm trying to find out what the height of the internal panels are and they don't seem to be labeled in the drawing I was able to find. Does anyone happen to know the height/angles to cut?
You mean this drawing doesn't give enough info?
It's not that critical, you can be off a bit - use a ruler to measure it from a scale drawing printed out if you need to. I cut straight angles and let the glue form the angled joints in FC. For folks making out of wood with thicker panels, you will have to guestimate the bevel. Don't worry too much about it. You can't see those joints anyway.
Definitely, and that's surprising for such a small enclosure! There might be a high WAF with that!
As you've found with the Elmer's foam core board, it doesn't cut very well with a knife (even a sharp one), so I think I'll use my bandsaw for any shapes I need - the blade I have is quite old, and 'gentle', so it can cut the stuff quite cleanly
You mean this drawing doesn't give enough info?
It's not that critical, you can be off a bit - use a ruler to measure it from a scale drawing printed out if you need to. I cut straight angles and let the glue form the angled joints in FC. For folks making out of wood with thicker panels, you will have to guestimate the bevel. Don't worry too much about it. You can't see those joints anyway.
Yeah, I'm designing the thing out of 1/4 inch mdf so I'm going to try and cut angles in, reverse engineering (adjust angle/measure/adjustagain) seems to be working pretty well. I'll have full dimensions via model by Monday.
freddyi, I hope you are well and doing all right. I have two karlsons that I listen to every day for hours at a time. they both have 5in. Dayton pa130's in them,50 watt rms. one k is the skip lee reflex, the other a klam sealed back chamber with an extremely oversize front chamber. the front chamber is for reverb primarily, you know that controlled ringing that jk speaks of. the height adjusted kabs will add to this reverb just like my oversize front chamber. you are using fostex, seas, and other of the best and expensive speakers available and still not getting good fr plots maybe reduce that front chamber. if you can listen to a 50 watt speaker at very close to 50 watts with no distortion from this reverb effect then the kab is right. you shouldn't have to felt line or stuff it with fill.
I am quite pleased to read that.... the originals Ks had no felt but bare wood inside.
Do you maen a smaller front chamber would reduce ringing ? What's about the two wings a bit more separated from each other and right to the top ?
I personnally reduced ringing with the mouth size, making it adjustable you tone your system to your room.
hello, tooppy I have done a lot of experimenting with the aperature by blocking or changing the area, changing shape[ into triangle]and nothing seems to change. when I compare my smaller front chamber vented kab to my unvented large front chamber [four x as big] the larger front chamber cab will reverb more. I even have 3/4 ply aperture on klam compared to 1/4 mdf on smaller. now music content has a lot to do with kabs. I should not be getting kick[65 hz] or sub bass but I do. not with a 5in. Dayton pa130.
on that smooth jazz or symphony or slow blues I can turn volume all the way up and get a full karlson effect. someone had said they do not know what they are listening for, well your speaker kab will transform into a musical instrument it will have realistic tone and timbre that is unbelievably present creating a much larger sound stage. it is like the cabinet takes the 5in. speaker and makes it sound like a 15in. well enough for now.
on that smooth jazz or symphony or slow blues I can turn volume all the way up and get a full karlson effect. someone had said they do not know what they are listening for, well your speaker kab will transform into a musical instrument it will have realistic tone and timbre that is unbelievably present creating a much larger sound stage. it is like the cabinet takes the 5in. speaker and makes it sound like a 15in. well enough for now.
The biggest effect of the aperture is towards the top narrow slit part. Make that a parallel slot vs a tapered slit going to a cusp affects the bass more. The lower portion is not as important - just needs to be a smooth transition. Truncating the slit/slot also has impact on bass extension and smoothness of mid bass.
xrk971, your talking about something you seen on another thread. k-15 is the original
creation of jk. the measuring of frequency response is why they are not widely accepted among designers. they don't measure well. you make adjustments by ear. i am not even sure its eighth order. and sims using calculators good luck. I don't know exactly when job ulfman started a karlson discussion, but some of these members in this thread have been trying to explain karlsons for that long.i wish you all well talk to you again.
creation of jk. the measuring of frequency response is why they are not widely accepted among designers. they don't measure well. you make adjustments by ear. i am not even sure its eighth order. and sims using calculators good luck. I don't know exactly when job ulfman started a karlson discussion, but some of these members in this thread have been trying to explain karlsons for that long.i wish you all well talk to you again.
I am talking about two different cabinets: the Karlsonator (a TQWT MLTL with Karlson aperture as discussed in this thread) and the K15 (an 8th order bandpass, sometimes 6th depending on if front shelf is there, with a Karlson aperture). Both of which I have started threads and have a model in AkAbak that accounts for the effect of the K aperture as a progressively variable vent defined by aperture width as function of length.
According to the model, the narrow portion has an effect on bass. Freddi's experience also says that narrow portion has largest impact.
They can measure well if you look at 0.4x and 0.53x measurements. They may not be flat but they have a lot of bass gain that negates the need for BSC.
hi walters - hey - here's a nice pair of 2 inch BMR Karlsonators playing on YouTube Mini Karlsonator 2 inch BMR 01 - YouTube
Those do sound nice Freddi. Looks like they are made of foam core too. I wonder who on diyAudio is this person - would have been good for them to post in this thread with details of the build. That is very full sounding for a 2 in driver. Although as a square format a 2in probably has Sd of a 3in driver.
Check this out. He has his highs and lows reversed and it looks like the front shelf is blocking the front chamber but sounds pretty good.
http://youtu.be/iQV45ROJCm0
Check this out. He has his highs and lows reversed and it looks like the front shelf is blocking the front chamber but sounds pretty good.
http://youtu.be/iQV45ROJCm0
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