Mounting ceramic sockets

[SCD]

hello Jose:
I would be inclined to mount them from below and put a rubber gasket/washer on each of the mounting screw. The gasket will allow a bit of flex, reduce tension on the ceramic and decouple the socket from the chassis. I would also "pre-stretch" the pin holes onto a tube before I tried to fit them once the sockets are mounted to the chassis to lower the risk of cracking the ceramic.
I hope this helps

 

[WntrMute2]

Could you elongate the screw holes to accommodate those ridges? That would allow the socket body to be flush with the mounting surface.

 

[wg_ski]

Just what we need - a bunch of precision machine shop work to make some stinking mounting holes.

 

[jcalvarez]

Could you elongate the screw holes to accommodate those ridges? That would allow the socket body to be flush with the mounting surface.

Good suggestion, I'm planning to do that, also adding a rubber gasket as others recommended.

 

[jcalvarez]

Just what we need - a bunch of precision machine shop work to make some stinking mounting holes.

All you need is a drill and a small file, I've done elongated holes before. No need for precision tools.

 

[jcalvarez]

hello Jose:
I would be inclined to mount them from below and put a rubber gasket/washer on each of the mounting screw. The gasket will allow a bit of flex, reduce tension on the ceramic and decouple the socket from the chassis. I would also "pre-stretch" the pin holes onto a tube before I tried to fit them once the sockets are mounted to the chassis to lower the risk of cracking the ceramic.
I hope this helps

About pre-stretching, there is no need with the ones in my first post. With the Chinese ones, definitely!

 

[jcalvarez]

Thank you guys for your advice!

 

[stonegreen]

... , also adding a rubber gasket ...

.. or a paper washer, with rubber there is shaky movement.

 

[WntrMute2]

Could you take a flat file to the raised area around the holes and flatten them out?
Easier than machining elongated holes maybe.

 

[jcalvarez]

Could you take a flat file to the raised area around the holes and flatten them out?
Easier than machining elongated holes maybe.

You are probably right, I'll try that, thanks!

 

[jcalvarez]

.. or a paper washer, with rubber there is shaky movement.

View attachment 1130870

Got a bunch of those, will try it too, thanks!

 

[Kay Pirinha]

I just measured the pins of a PL504, PL508 and 6P41S, all exactly the same at around 1.25mm.

Yes, it's the standardized Magnoval pin diameter, vs. 1 mm for Novar (and Compactron) pins.

.. or a paper washer, with rubber there is shaky movement.

View attachment 1130870

Aren't these fibre washers? Anyway, I also think they're the best solution of all.

Could you take a flat file to the raised area around the holes and flatten them out?
Easier than machining elongated holes maybe.

What about just drilling a hole of the raised areas' bigger diameter instead of elongated holes? Filing ceramics is a tedious job and requires diamond instead of steel files. A real PITA!

Best regards!

 

[jcalvarez]

Yes, it's the standardized Magnoval pin diameter, vs. 1 mm for Novar (and Compactron) pins.

Aren't these fibre washers? Anyway, I also think they're the best solution of all.

What about just drilling a hole of the raised areas' bigger diameter instead of elongated holes? Filing ceramics is a tedious job and requires diamond instead of steel files. A real PITA!

Best regards!

I just tried filing the protuberance in one side, worked pretty well with my cheap flat file 😉

 

[Kay Pirinha]

Maybe they have forgotten to bake the ceramic green body ?

Best regards!

 

[jcalvarez]

Maybe they have forgotten to bake the ceramic green body ?

Best regards!

Probably. It is harder than aluminium or steel, but with a couple of minutes of effort it goes away.