I know these are car audio subs, but I can honestly say I've never seen a sub of any type as awesome as these. MTX developed them to destroy JL's W7 series subs, and they look like they will. Each sub weighs over 50 lbs and has 4" of excursion! That means the 10" model has more than twice the displacement of your typical 15" driver. These things can move some serious air! They also appear to require small enclosures. I read in one of the forums that the 10" driver required only a 1.75 c.f. ported enclosure. I need to find out if these subs will work in sealed enclosures. If so, I would like to use one in my HT system. Can you imagine a 10" sub in a tiny enclosure that would kick the crap out of 2 enclosures, each more than double in size, and each with a 15" driver? I can't, but I'd love to have that driver.
For some reason when I imagine a 10" driver trying to pull off a 4" travel, I imagine it sounding like sombody wobbling a massive cookie sheet.
Sorry, it was late at night when I started this thread. I screwed up my math. One of the new MTX 10's has more displacement than a typical 15" driver. It has a one way xmax of 29mm. And believe me, it sounds nothing like a cookie sheet. Its sound is nothing short of awesome!
http://www.mtxaudio.com/caraudio/headtohead/w7.cfm
The mechanical limit of excursion is essentially meaningless IMO,
its just where your end stops are whilst it's distorting hideously.
I'd stick to linear excursion limits, which is only 10% greater.
I notice the above does not mention sensistivity, the implication
of all the comparisons is that the JLA driver is more efficient.
There is no such thing as a free lunch in subwoofer design.
🙂 /sreten.
The mechanical limit of excursion is essentially meaningless IMO,
its just where your end stops are whilst it's distorting hideously.
I'd stick to linear excursion limits, which is only 10% greater.
I notice the above does not mention sensistivity, the implication
of all the comparisons is that the JLA driver is more efficient.
There is no such thing as a free lunch in subwoofer design.
🙂 /sreten.
the downside on these MTX woofers is that the Fs is higher than the JL Audio ones.
That makes the MTX IMO real car sub woofer espessially for dB dragging
that counts for me to pick the W7 above the MTX for any other use
That makes the MTX IMO real car sub woofer espessially for dB dragging
that counts for me to pick the W7 above the MTX for any other use
Don't do like I've noticed a lot of other people are doing and base your opinion solely on numbers. These subs have got to be heard to be appreciated. They are nothing short of awesome.
5 bux says the efficiency is like 84dBs and you need the greater power handeling to even match the SPL of the other sub...
but then ofcourse I did have people telling me on CAF that efficiency had nothing to do with it, and that an 84dB 8inch sub with 100watts would get the same SPL as an 88dB sub with 100watts... 🙄
anyway.. heres a discussion about the subs.... 😛
Boom Boom Boom Boom
but then ofcourse I did have people telling me on CAF that efficiency had nothing to do with it, and that an 84dB 8inch sub with 100watts would get the same SPL as an 88dB sub with 100watts... 🙄
anyway.. heres a discussion about the subs.... 😛
Boom Boom Boom Boom
Don't forget the 12inch 5000watts Pioneer sub with the 10mm or something x-max... 🙄 that APPARENTLY hold the dB world record... 9 of them.... 100,000watts or something.. 😛 173dBs? hmmm
ofcourse I MAY have gotten confused..
ofcourse I MAY have gotten confused..
One question; who in he11 would buy one of these MTX subs and try to run it with 100 watts? That's just plain silly. Efficiency I think is only 81 or 82 db, but who cares. I'd be putting a 1000 watts to it. What's the point of buying a sub like this and running it with a wimpy amp? I'd want to take full advantage of this sub's capabilities and to do that, you're gonna need some serious power.
grampi said:
see.. its crap....
if it is 82dB.. you could run it from 1024 watts... and get 111dB (without cabin gain)
get a half decent 12inch sub with 90dB efficiency... run it from 256watts, and get 114dB (without cabin gain)
ITS JUST STUPID getting a high power sub that NEEDS a high power amp to even compete with a lower powered sub... 🙄
I mean... you can get 92dB efficient 15inch subs... run one off 64 watts, and you already have 110dB.. 😛
grampi said:
in a car with cabin gain, yes... just like the 15inch sub would exceed 120dBs with 100watts.. 😛
grampi said:
But for how long? Maybe get 160db with 2000 watts.. but only for 250 mS ... ONCE.......
I still prefer my Image Dynamics IDMAX 12's to anything new on the market.
Dual 4ohm coils, 93.1 sens, 24.9mm Xmax (linear 1 direction), 3.5" of suspension travel, and the ability to handle 1000wrms all day, every day. 1.3cuft Sealed box... I can go on here 😉
It's still the king in my books, and will be for a LONG time. (and I've got 2 of em 😀)
Dual 4ohm coils, 93.1 sens, 24.9mm Xmax (linear 1 direction), 3.5" of suspension travel, and the ability to handle 1000wrms all day, every day. 1.3cuft Sealed box... I can go on here 😉
It's still the king in my books, and will be for a LONG time. (and I've got 2 of em 😀)
ok....
Firstly assuming
1 the efficiency ratings are all measured in very similar ways.
2 the sub is in a maximally flat alignment
3 no compression effects (power or BL )
4 cabin gain is constant between ppl arguing about it
after all those assumptions you can say
low eff subs DEFINATELY SUCK if u want any SPL
ofcourse-the small box sub,can be placed in a LARGE box ,making it peak with an SPL 40s tune for example, putting its SPL NEAR the higher efficiency woofer
but the point is,10db is alot of difference.so i expect those assumptions to work out-so u can say that the efficiencies ARE far apart even with varying measurement methods.
I would tend to be VERY picky about choosing the right woofer.
xbl^2 patent is there to look at...
Woofer placement,and cabin boost will make large differences.
btw,this is car audio subject not home audio speakers🙂
Firstly assuming
1 the efficiency ratings are all measured in very similar ways.
2 the sub is in a maximally flat alignment
3 no compression effects (power or BL )
4 cabin gain is constant between ppl arguing about it
after all those assumptions you can say
low eff subs DEFINATELY SUCK if u want any SPL
ofcourse-the small box sub,can be placed in a LARGE box ,making it peak with an SPL 40s tune for example, putting its SPL NEAR the higher efficiency woofer
but the point is,10db is alot of difference.so i expect those assumptions to work out-so u can say that the efficiencies ARE far apart even with varying measurement methods.
I would tend to be VERY picky about choosing the right woofer.
xbl^2 patent is there to look at...
Woofer placement,and cabin boost will make large differences.
btw,this is car audio subject not home audio speakers🙂
That is why I tend to prefer pro audio woofers in a car, because of their excellent sensitivity, and the cabin gain seems to be just right to even out their otherwise weaker low-bass response.
first off show me a "half decent" 12 caraudio woofer with a 90db 1m/1w sensitivity?
second, sensitivity is only ONE of the specs that needs to be looked at, this woofer has almost 30mm of linear x-max and well over 1000wrms power handling
not only will it have much less power compression then your half decent driver but it also has about 30% more displacement then your drive not to mention the fact that it only has 1/2 the bl compression(and resulting MUCH less distortion) of your driver and about 1/4 of the power compression(assuming a half decent driver = 500wrms power handling and around 15mm of xmax)
can the mtx beat the 12" at 250wrms...no problably not... but when driven to x-max this driver has the ablity to gain a noticeable 2db or more and sound much better doing it
so overall we have a smaller driver...requiring a smaller box..getting louder and sounding better then a larger driver at the expensive of power...which nowadays is dirt cheap
I will wait to hear this sub before making up my mind.
For a car, low efficiency isn't as big a deal normally as box size in my opinion.
Remember you can have only two of the following.
1. Play low.
2. High Efficiency
3. Small Box
In the car environment power is very cheap. Give me a small box.😀
For a car, low efficiency isn't as big a deal normally as box size in my opinion.
Remember you can have only two of the following.
1. Play low.
2. High Efficiency
3. Small Box
In the car environment power is very cheap. Give me a small box.😀
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