My_Ref Fremen Edition - Build thread and tutorial

I would greatly appreciate some technical advice. There was a power surge here (created by my electric water heater!) which flashed my lights and silenced one channel of my preamplifier. It, or the preamp failing, also damaged one of my monoblocks. Now all I hear with no input is a very loud buzz through the speaker. The LED lights, relay clicks, and I measure only 7MV dc at the outputs, but there is no music, only a loud noise which almost sounds like there is no ground. I do not detect any physical damage. Can anyone suggest where to begin testing the circuit?

Peace,
Tom E
 
Tom,
It is intriguing, so to say.. The relay clicking, and Your measurement of the 7mV output offset would indicate that the composite feedback loop works (for sure in DC). It means all the active elements need to be OK..
On the other hand, there is no ground reference to the input signal (buzz)
All this would signal an R11 gone.. but in that case, typically, a strong DC offset is the result.. Maybe it's not totally gone, just got an elevated value (like from 1ohm to some dozen kohm..) .??
though.. this still would not exclude some of the input signal filtering through..🤔
 
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Just to add some observations. In my original query about the value of C32 for my OPA828 build, @Joseph K intimated that with the damping resistor mod fitted 150pF would still be a valid value. I went ahead with the recommended 68pF, I then added the compensation damping 1K resistor which definitely dropped a veil in the presentation but there was still a hint of grit and grain in the 2-4kHz presence region, not surprising as it's something I've always heard in virtually all solid state amps. Only valves get those micro tonal shades in sibilants and cymbals absolutely right in my experience. Joseph's insight got under my skin, so I swapped out the 68pF for 150pF and nearly all of that grit and grain vanished. OK, I swapped a polystyrene for an AMCH and I am just a tinkerer but I do believe Joseph is on to something here.
Interested in this - so what is the best combination to date that drops the last hint of grit and gain? My thoughts on this:

What voltage is LM318 supplied with? Has anyone tried separately powering it with a v.good linear or ultracap supply? I may well end up adopting OPA828 as suggested.

Finally, I've had very good experience with the SALIGNY Power GaN - Expensive, but it does seem to introduce any hash - I do think going offboard for the rectifier would help.
 
Interested in this - so what is the best combination to date that drops the last hint of grit and gain? My thoughts on this:

What voltage is LM318 supplied with? Has anyone tried separately powering it with a v.good linear or ultracap supply? I may well end up adopting OPA828 as suggested.
check
Finally, I've had very good experience with the SALIGNY Power GaN - Expensive, but it does seem to introduce any hash - I do think going offboard for the rectifier would help.
check
the amp that I am using now - applies these. And some. :)
 
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What voltage is LM318 supplied with? Has anyone tried separately powering it with a v.good linear or ultracap supply? I may well end up adopting OPA828 as suggested.

I have a build where i changed opamp (opa827) psus for ti tps7a very low noise linear ones. There is some increase in sq, but not as much as i expected.
But the amp i implemented that way was already very good sounding, without any harsh and with much grint, thanks to Dario and Joseph K higher quality suggested mods (caps, resistors, opamps, etc...)
P. S. In that build i use hexfred diodes, the best i know with a "normal" price. I am a first time/first models saligny user, they are very good but to be honest i found the best results in valve circuits psus
 
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