I have a vintage tuner that used a 1.2V NiCD AA sized battery for memory backup
I have read where several people have replaced that battery with NiMH AA battery
however this website says never replace NiCD with NiMH:
https://www.electronics-notes.com/a...nology/nimh-nickel-metal-hydride-charging.php
does anyone here have experience with the safety of this change?
I have read where several people have replaced that battery with NiMH AA battery
however this website says never replace NiCD with NiMH:
https://www.electronics-notes.com/a...nology/nimh-nickel-metal-hydride-charging.php
does anyone here have experience with the safety of this change?
The issue with NiMH is that they do not stand overcharging.
NiCD will trickle charge all day long: NiMH won't.
When NiMH were a new thing, marketing said they could replace NiCD & use same trickle charger.
I ruined many cells in this way.
I have a hair trimmer supplied with embedded NiMH cells equipped with a trickle charger.
The cells didn't live long.
I suspect the product was originally designed for NiCD and the manufacturer changed the cells without consideration of the different charging requirements. .
A smart charger for NiMH may have a very low trickle rate (after charging is complete) of C/40.
There should be no safety issue, just battery longevity.
It is cheap to try.
NiCD will trickle charge all day long: NiMH won't.
When NiMH were a new thing, marketing said they could replace NiCD & use same trickle charger.
I ruined many cells in this way.
I have a hair trimmer supplied with embedded NiMH cells equipped with a trickle charger.
The cells didn't live long.
I suspect the product was originally designed for NiCD and the manufacturer changed the cells without consideration of the different charging requirements. .
A smart charger for NiMH may have a very low trickle rate (after charging is complete) of C/40.
There should be no safety issue, just battery longevity.
It is cheap to try.
You can still get NiCads for small solar garden-lights.
https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SLA300-Solar-Light-Battery/dp/B004KRQPPS
https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Rechargeable-Battery-Capacity-Batteries/dp/B001EYL2EO
I don't see the point of risking a Lithium fire in a vintage tuner.
https://www.solarpowerfam.com/nicd-vs-nimh/
https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SLA300-Solar-Light-Battery/dp/B004KRQPPS
https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Rechargeable-Battery-Capacity-Batteries/dp/B001EYL2EO
I don't see the point of risking a Lithium fire in a vintage tuner.
https://www.solarpowerfam.com/nicd-vs-nimh/
My only concern is damage to the tuner from an overcharged NiMH battery that overheats or explodes or sends a damaging voltage to the tuner
don't care if the battery only lasts 2 years
don't care if the battery only lasts 2 years
I am not using a lithium batteryYou can still get NiCads for small solar garden-lights.
https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SLA300-Solar-Light-Battery/dp/B004KRQPPS
https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Rechargeable-Battery-Capacity-Batteries/dp/B001EYL2EO
I don't see the point of risking a Lithium fire in a vintage tuner.
What about a Supercap? Many tuners use those. 0.47 F 5.5V should be OK. No risks as they can not be overcharged. Just do not short-circuit them when charged.
Just to be sure it would be good to show the schematics.
Just to be sure it would be good to show the schematics.
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How about a supercap? EDIT: jean-paul beat me while I was finding one. 35F 2.7V should keep the memory for a long time without power.
It's about the same size as an AA cell.
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/...raloric-bc-components/MAL222551002E3/12813296
It's about the same size as an AA cell.
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/...raloric-bc-components/MAL222551002E3/12813296
I did not know a supercap could directly replace a battery, wowHow about a supercap? EDIT: jean-paul beat me while I was finding one. 35F 2.7V should keep the memory for a long time without power.
It's about the same size as an AA cell.
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/...raloric-bc-components/MAL222551002E3/12813296
the schematic is not readable, the block diagram is more readable
tuner is Yamaha T-7
Attachments
The circuit is very unusual in that the battery actually runs an astable multivibrator to generate the backup supply.
I'm going differ here and say you should stick to a NiCad cell in this instance as the oscillator will need a constant supply voltage (the 1.2v). Never seen anything like this before tbh. Normally the 1.2v cell would directly backup the memory. It would be interesting to know the current draw of this backup supply.
However 🙂
I'm going differ here and say you should stick to a NiCad cell in this instance as the oscillator will need a constant supply voltage (the 1.2v). Never seen anything like this before tbh. Normally the 1.2v cell would directly backup the memory. It would be interesting to know the current draw of this backup supply.
However 🙂
as I was wandering around I found a deal that was too good to pass up so I bought this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ0R4XK?psc=1&smid=A3IAN4VN1Q26HU&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ0R4XK?psc=1&smid=A3IAN4VN1Q26HU&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp
if they are not Tenergy NiCD then I will just do an easy amazon return and drop them off at Kohls
I will also test them when I get them
if they don't work as they should then back to amazon
I love buying form amazon because the returns could not be easier
just go online then click return and then drop them off at Kohls or whole foods !!!!
no risk involved, no hassles like buying on eBay !
also note they are shipped by amazon and sold by tenergy so no third party crooks involved
I will also test them when I get them
if they don't work as they should then back to amazon
I love buying form amazon because the returns could not be easier
just go online then click return and then drop them off at Kohls or whole foods !!!!
no risk involved, no hassles like buying on eBay !
also note they are shipped by amazon and sold by tenergy so no third party crooks involved
Attachments
It would be interesting to know what voltage is produced. It is just a way to transform the 1.2V to a higher voltage. If that is around 4 to 5V then a Supercap could replace the circuit alltogether with some changes like the series resistor.The circuit is very unusual in that the battery actually runs an astable multivibrator to generate the backup supply.
I'm going differ here and say you should stick to a NiCad cell in this instance as the oscillator will need a constant supply voltage (the 1.2v). Never seen anything like this before tbh. Normally the 1.2v cell would directly backup the memory. It would be interesting to know the current draw of this backup supply.
However 🙂
View attachment 1092465
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...unusual in that the battery actually runs an astable multivibrator to generate the backup supply. I'm going differ here and say you should stick to a NiCad ...
I had suspected that. RAM to work on 1.1V was unavailable until quite recently. PC CMOS/BIOS batteries were 3-cell Ni-Cad. While an always-on oscillator seems extravagant, watches with single cell had become common.
NiMh prefer to be charged at more than 0.1C, but trickle charging at 0.001C or less is no problem: they have an inbuilt recombination process changing the excess charge into heat. It might not be advisable regarding the performances, but it is completely safe, and losing half of your backup capacity shouldn't be a problem.
Other chemistries, like Lithium or alkaline are much less tolerant, and will outgass/explode as soon as the main recombination path is exhausted. Those should never be trickled-charged (and there are others).
Lead batteries also tolerate overcharging/trickle charging, but they belong to the previous century, and are not environmentally friendly
Other chemistries, like Lithium or alkaline are much less tolerant, and will outgass/explode as soon as the main recombination path is exhausted. Those should never be trickled-charged (and there are others).
Lead batteries also tolerate overcharging/trickle charging, but they belong to the previous century, and are not environmentally friendly
Lead acid batteries are alive and kicking in the industry. Slowly lithium variants become more popular but lead acid is still leading with regards to reliability and also sales numbers. At the moment lead acid batteries are greener than lithium batteries as they are fully recycled and almost none of the materials end up in the environment. Worn out batteries have a value because of the lead prices and also the sulphuric acid is recycled in new batteries. Recycling sites should be closely examined and checked as things are sometimes not as good as they should be over there (especially as sites are generally in 3rd world countries and China). Unfortunately this counts for mining of raw materials/ores, production sites of metals and for metal recycling sites.
Lithium batteries were unrecyclable until recently and thus they were thrown on landfills in the Far East. Production of lithium batteries has some very sharp edges too. They are certainly not an example of circular design! The acceptation of lithium variants is high for electrical mobility and mobile devices for obvious reasons.
Lithium batteries were unrecyclable until recently and thus they were thrown on landfills in the Far East. Production of lithium batteries has some very sharp edges too. They are certainly not an example of circular design! The acceptation of lithium variants is high for electrical mobility and mobile devices for obvious reasons.
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