Just skimmed through an awesome thread on DIY binding posts, but I don't have the energy to make something that complicated for this project.
Since it's cheap to get hold of galvanised steel nuts and bolts, I was thinking along the lines of using a large diameter bolt and three nuts per post, with a hole cut through the bolt to insert bare wire into.
Any problems?. In particular, is galvanised steel ok for this job, or is there significant drawbacks over copper or those normal binding posts?
Since it's cheap to get hold of galvanised steel nuts and bolts, I was thinking along the lines of using a large diameter bolt and three nuts per post, with a hole cut through the bolt to insert bare wire into.
Any problems?. In particular, is galvanised steel ok for this job, or is there significant drawbacks over copper or those normal binding posts?
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I dont know that zinc, or galvanized steel, would be all that ideal for audio.
It shouldn’t be too difficult to at least find brass hardware from hardware, plumbing, or boat supply stores.
You didn’t like the welding connectors?
It shouldn’t be too difficult to at least find brass hardware from hardware, plumbing, or boat supply stores.
You didn’t like the welding connectors?
I agree. At least go for brass. You can get into dissimilar metals problems with zinc/copper interface. Brass will still have the problem but to a MUCH lessor degree.
Later
BZ
Later
BZ
Galvanized steel would be a poor choice for a conductor. It's magnetic, the resistance is at least an order of magnitude higher then copper. I'd go with brass or better yet threaded copper rod.
Can I put in a plug (ha ha) for Speakon connectors here?
They're airtight and they don't rattle, they allow biwiring as standard, they have very generous current ratings, they have proper materials for the contacts and they allow very easy swapping between amps, cables and speakers when you're A/B testing.
I wouldn't use steel, particularly if you're joining it to copper and passing a current through it. One side or other's going to corrode horrendously.
Cheers
IH
They're airtight and they don't rattle, they allow biwiring as standard, they have very generous current ratings, they have proper materials for the contacts and they allow very easy swapping between amps, cables and speakers when you're A/B testing.
I wouldn't use steel, particularly if you're joining it to copper and passing a current through it. One side or other's going to corrode horrendously.
Cheers
IH
Nappylady said:Speakon = TEH AWESOME 😀
Speakon = TEH EXPENSIVE
The're not bad. About $5 to $8 US each in small quantities.
They also lock into place and will take to a #12 wire. I use them on all my PRO aspeaker level connections. Much better than a 1/4" phono jack. You've got to wonder what idiot came up with the idea of using a connector that shorts the amp every time you plug or unplug the speaker.
Phil
You hit the nail on the head with the 1/4" connectors... I will NEVER use them on any of my speakers!
I've been using, thus far, Radio Shack binding posts with singular Cat5 cables. My dad and I have some plans to build and use small vices of copper, to secure speaker cables. When we'll actually get around to building them is another story...
(hijack) Anyone know where to get stranded Cat5 instead of solid? I'm always afraid I'm going to break the solid stuff.... (/hijack)
I've been using, thus far, Radio Shack binding posts with singular Cat5 cables. My dad and I have some plans to build and use small vices of copper, to secure speaker cables. When we'll actually get around to building them is another story...
(hijack) Anyone know where to get stranded Cat5 instead of solid? I'm always afraid I'm going to break the solid stuff.... (/hijack)
But the solid stuff is the good stuff! That's why people use CAT 5
for audio!
BAck on topic: : hardware stores have some copper bolts in the electrical section by circuit breakers. These are for use to connect to the grounding of the house system. Also some cool copper clamps, but too big for amp cable use.
for audio!
BAck on topic: : hardware stores have some copper bolts in the electrical section by circuit breakers. These are for use to connect to the grounding of the house system. Also some cool copper clamps, but too big for amp cable use.
I tride hard to get hold of a threaded copper rod/bolts, but without any luck. I did manage to to get a 10m dia. copper bar for free though, and now I've come up with this design (inspired by cardas). Although it may look a little complicated at first, it should be very cheap and easy to implement as the only requirements are some thick plastic, some nice looking nuts and a steel threaded rod. Four pairs for under £10 maybe...
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Vikashjee
Namashkar
As roddyama the moderator has rightly suggested, a galvanised steel rod will be terrible choice. Since you've already got the copper rod, do consider investing in a set of cheap threading die tool (ones that don't require a lathe) to cut threads on the said rod.
I built the DIY Binding Posts as linked in your first post. Frankly, I couldn't note any improvement over the spring loaded types that I've been using. But your plan appears foolproof. No harm in experimenting
Jai Hind
Namashkar
As roddyama the moderator has rightly suggested, a galvanised steel rod will be terrible choice. Since you've already got the copper rod, do consider investing in a set of cheap threading die tool (ones that don't require a lathe) to cut threads on the said rod.
I built the DIY Binding Posts as linked in your first post. Frankly, I couldn't note any improvement over the spring loaded types that I've been using. But your plan appears foolproof. No harm in experimenting
Jai Hind
[Vikashjee] 😀
Yeah, I've learn't a bit since considering steel bolts...
I actually did try to thread the rod using a die, but I wasn't happy with the result. I then started adding other requirements such as:
- no other conductive material in contact with the copper (i.e nuts)
- increase strength/firmness of connection
- no threaded material in the wood
which has led me to the current design.
Your cardas clone is exceptional. I think this might be a more reachable goal for people with only basic tools though...
I'll post some pics up as and when...
Yeah, I've learn't a bit since considering steel bolts...
I actually did try to thread the rod using a die, but I wasn't happy with the result. I then started adding other requirements such as:
- no other conductive material in contact with the copper (i.e nuts)
- increase strength/firmness of connection
- no threaded material in the wood
which has led me to the current design.
Your cardas clone is exceptional. I think this might be a more reachable goal for people with only basic tools though...
I'll post some pics up as and when...
My tip is to use the chapest screw binding posts you can find (like Maplin ones for instance). But then really only use them to clamp the two wires you are joining together.
Assuming its on the back on an amp (or speaker enc.) allow the internal wire to pass throug the enclosure and then terminate it so it sits inside the post. Then you put your other cable on top, then tighten down the screw, so you are clamping one cable right on top of the other, with a lot of pressure.
Its easy to do, very cheap, and really (unless you use a continous wire!) the best sounding possible!
Regards,
Jonathan
Assuming its on the back on an amp (or speaker enc.) allow the internal wire to pass throug the enclosure and then terminate it so it sits inside the post. Then you put your other cable on top, then tighten down the screw, so you are clamping one cable right on top of the other, with a lot of pressure.
Its easy to do, very cheap, and really (unless you use a continous wire!) the best sounding possible!
Regards,
Jonathan
I agree Jonathan and would even consider using nylon nuts and bolts so you could easily drill a hole in the bolt to bring through the wire from inside the amp.
I made some connectors from nylon nuts and bolts by:
1 Drilling a small hole right through the length of the bolts.
2 Cutting down the shaft of the bolt to split it (about half way to the head)
3 Running a wire from inside the amp in to the hole in the bolt.
The speaker wire is then put into the hole in the bolt where it makes contact with the other wire and a second nut (not the one securing the bolt to the amp case) is turned anticlockwise so that it compresses the two split ends of the bolt to clamp the wires together.
It actually takes less time to contruct it than describe the process.
Currently, I use another type of DIY speaker connector that accepts banana plugs. which I have described HERE .
I made some connectors from nylon nuts and bolts by:
1 Drilling a small hole right through the length of the bolts.
2 Cutting down the shaft of the bolt to split it (about half way to the head)
3 Running a wire from inside the amp in to the hole in the bolt.
The speaker wire is then put into the hole in the bolt where it makes contact with the other wire and a second nut (not the one securing the bolt to the amp case) is turned anticlockwise so that it compresses the two split ends of the bolt to clamp the wires together.
It actually takes less time to contruct it than describe the process.
Currently, I use another type of DIY speaker connector that accepts banana plugs. which I have described HERE .
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