The internal dimensions are not important (as long as the magnet of the midrange driver will fit). The width of the front baffle and the positions of the driver on the front are more important.
The back in mine is removable. If I would build anotherone, I wouldn't bother though. You can always access the interiors be removing the woofer, with less screws than on my back panel.
Sure you can use 6 conductors. The shield is useless for a loudspeaker cable, so you don't need it. Just use the thickest wire that will fit the SpeakOn.
Whatever it is they use, don't. When the stands arrived here, the filler was not hardened and was leaking out. Maybe just use sand?
"baffle" being the front of the speaker with 3 holes? So the overall depth of the cabinet could be shallower and still maintain your design? I was under the impression that the interior space/volume was a critical factor.
Re: back panel—is there pyramid foam there too?
Oh man! Good to know. I was in fact trying to understand how something would cure—unless it cures chemically—inside an enclosed space! Guess that answers that. The only issue with sand is moisture. Need to find dry silica. Probably the same stuff used in media blasting because it comes in different sizes.
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Yes.
Yes and no. The box volume should not change. You can make the box shallower, but higher.
Yes, I put some foam in the lower part behind the woofer. It's best if you figure it out yourself. Just because I like it my way does not mean that everyone else likes it this way.
Thanks!
I see that your prototypes are MDF. Was there a reason you moved to solid wood? Seems the jury is out on a perfect material—but MDF is continually noted for its "deadness". As much as I really don't like it—I also want the "best" starting point. Did you make the move to wood for audible reasons?
I see that your prototypes are MDF. Was there a reason you moved to solid wood? Seems the jury is out on a perfect material—but MDF is continually noted for its "deadness". As much as I really don't like it—I also want the "best" starting point. Did you make the move to wood for audible reasons?
I typically use baltic birch for the cabinet and bracing and mdf for the baffle as it machines better.
I used solid wood because I think it looks nicer, and I don't trust veneers (but that's just me).
In terms of acoustics, plywood or MDF would be a bit better. Concrete or diamond would be great. Whatever... don't loose your sleep over the material to build the enclosure. The single-most important thing is to use enough bracing to get a "dead" enclosure. In addition, I also sandwiched aluminium sheets to the inside surfaces of the box. A sandwich of dissimilar materials attenuates resonances.
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My boxes are approximatly 36cm x 30cm x 16cm (external). Size is not critical, as long as you can hide them somewhere
See here for some hints on things to do and not to do regarding arrangement of your components and size of the box. Especially if your box is made of metal.
Placement of coils in crossover networks
gabo
Placement of coils in crossover networks
gabo
That is very helpful.
Do you think if I tuck the Xovers inside the cabinet I would need to adjust the interior volume? Obviously that would make it less fun to play with parts over time...
Weeellll, maybe, a little bit of extra volume would not be wrong, but I doubt it will do much. It's much more a question of how much the mechanical vibration in/on the box is picked up by the xover parts. I believe the coils could be sensitive to this, but I have never tested this in a systematic way.
Oh man, Can't say enough good things about these guys:
Audiohobby - Fidelity Components Shop
Fast and free shipping the US. Mundorf has had some backlogs apparently—and one of the parts in this build didn't come in as expected—the Audiohobby guys actually looked at the Xover schematic and made some recommendations based on parts they did have without me prompting anything! WOW. Serious customer service.
So....have tweeters finally... will cut some baffle holes.
Audiohobby - Fidelity Components Shop
Fast and free shipping the US. Mundorf has had some backlogs apparently—and one of the parts in this build didn't come in as expected—the Audiohobby guys actually looked at the Xover schematic and made some recommendations based on parts they did have without me prompting anything! WOW. Serious customer service.
So....have tweeters finally... will cut some baffle holes.
Not very exciting...yet...
But—here you are. You can see some variances in the part values vs BOM—not sure if I didn't understand the ordering/listing...Mundorf's site shows the same values as I received—but for instance, the mid range BL125—BOM shows .39R, part is .44R—when I actually measure it it reads .5R, and most of theses parts are listed as ~+/-20%? My question is how much do these variances matter in the final crossover? Should I unwind some wire to tweak values? I think I understand how that would change R, not sure what that means for mH. And, still missing a whole load of electrolytics—All the other parts are coming from Canada...
I am going to wait for the waveguides before cutting baffle holes. Need to see what's up in person with the attachment there. The stock tweeter is way smaller than the hole in the cut diagram—it's obviously the waveguide that actually attaches to the baffle? Does that mean that the tweeter isn't bolted to the waveguide? I'm sure it will be clear when in hand... But you mention clamp or glue in the waveguide section. Not sure how I feel about gluing the tweeter? Any details here? Is silicone really enough to hold it and fill the bolt holes as well?
I'll probably give the front baffle cabinet long edges a roundover—5/8" And playing around with the base height etc where the plan is to put the crossovers.
Gonna be AWESOME!
But—here you are. You can see some variances in the part values vs BOM—not sure if I didn't understand the ordering/listing...Mundorf's site shows the same values as I received—but for instance, the mid range BL125—BOM shows .39R, part is .44R—when I actually measure it it reads .5R, and most of theses parts are listed as ~+/-20%? My question is how much do these variances matter in the final crossover? Should I unwind some wire to tweak values? I think I understand how that would change R, not sure what that means for mH. And, still missing a whole load of electrolytics—All the other parts are coming from Canada...
I am going to wait for the waveguides before cutting baffle holes. Need to see what's up in person with the attachment there. The stock tweeter is way smaller than the hole in the cut diagram—it's obviously the waveguide that actually attaches to the baffle? Does that mean that the tweeter isn't bolted to the waveguide? I'm sure it will be clear when in hand... But you mention clamp or glue in the waveguide section. Not sure how I feel about gluing the tweeter? Any details here? Is silicone really enough to hold it and fill the bolt holes as well?
I'll probably give the front baffle cabinet long edges a roundover—5/8" And playing around with the base height etc where the plan is to put the crossovers.
Gonna be AWESOME!
Attachments
Looking good!
Do not unwind those inductors! The 0.05 Ohm difference is entirely insignificant, and well within tolerance. Unwinding would reduce the inductance (the mH number), which would be wrong.
Yes, the tweeter attaches to the waveguide. You will essentially replace the stock faceplate of the tweeter with the waveguide. There are two ways to fix the tweeter to the waveguide: either use a bar to clamp the tweeter to the waveguide, using the two screw holes on the rear of the waveguide (I had a photo of this, but can't find it at the moment); or use a bit of glue (silicone worked fine for me) to fix the tweeter to the waveguide. This will be a lot easier to understand once you have the waveguides in your hands, and when you removed the stock faceplate of the tweeter.
Edit: found the photo of the bar clamp in the augerpro waveguide thread and attached it here. It shows a different tweeter and waveguide, but you get the idea.
Do not unwind those inductors! The 0.05 Ohm difference is entirely insignificant, and well within tolerance. Unwinding would reduce the inductance (the mH number), which would be wrong.
Yes, the tweeter attaches to the waveguide. You will essentially replace the stock faceplate of the tweeter with the waveguide. There are two ways to fix the tweeter to the waveguide: either use a bar to clamp the tweeter to the waveguide, using the two screw holes on the rear of the waveguide (I had a photo of this, but can't find it at the moment); or use a bit of glue (silicone worked fine for me) to fix the tweeter to the waveguide. This will be a lot easier to understand once you have the waveguides in your hands, and when you removed the stock faceplate of the tweeter.
Edit: found the photo of the bar clamp in the augerpro waveguide thread and attached it here. It shows a different tweeter and waveguide, but you get the idea.
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Roger that! I knew there was a relationship between wire gauge, length, and both values—and I wouldn't just go rogue and start messing about cutting wire etc.
Yes Re: tweeter—I imagined as much—That's a very cute little rig you have there in blue. I may opt for that route. We shall see. It's pretty lightweight and clearly isn't going to be a big mover like the woofer or even the mid could be.
Yes Re: tweeter—I imagined as much—That's a very cute little rig you have there in blue. I may opt for that route. We shall see. It's pretty lightweight and clearly isn't going to be a big mover like the woofer or even the mid could be.
The blue thing is not mine. I found that photo on the augerpro thread about his waveguides.
Actually, I was thinking of doing a bunch of aluminium clamps that would fit on the Scan R2904 tweeter. However, since mine are glued into the waveguide and inside the Monkey Coffin, I can't easily access the rear of the tweeters. Could you measure the diameter of the magnet of the R2904? That would be useful to design a nice clamp for the waveguides.
Actually, I was thinking of doing a bunch of aluminium clamps that would fit on the Scan R2904 tweeter. However, since mine are glued into the waveguide and inside the Monkey Coffin, I can't easily access the rear of the tweeters. Could you measure the diameter of the magnet of the R2904? That would be useful to design a nice clamp for the waveguides.
Attached. I may just do the silicone route. No mechanical interferences....
Did you add some thin foam etc. to the waveguide lip where it sits in the baffle rabbet?
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Thanks for the diameter number!
Yes, I used some foamy tape to seal the waveguide to the cabinet. Do this with all three drivers.
Yes, I used some foamy tape to seal the waveguide to the cabinet. Do this with all three drivers.