OK got an Orion hcca in for repair.
Power light was comming on but no power supply switching.
Owner said he saw the over voltage light then had no audio.
I noticed R768 was open so replaced that and swapped out the PNP it runs as it was shorted.
Amp now tries to turn on however just draws a heap of current and will switch on off on off ect. Only can see switching for a second before it restarts.
I'm brand new to class A/B. All output transistors seem ok.
All power supply mosfets seem ok...
If I remove Q713 the power supply will switch fine with no issues. But I'm not getting auxiliary voltages up in the output section....
Thanks
Power light was comming on but no power supply switching.
Owner said he saw the over voltage light then had no audio.
I noticed R768 was open so replaced that and swapped out the PNP it runs as it was shorted.
Amp now tries to turn on however just draws a heap of current and will switch on off on off ect. Only can see switching for a second before it restarts.
I'm brand new to class A/B. All output transistors seem ok.
All power supply mosfets seem ok...
If I remove Q713 the power supply will switch fine with no issues. But I'm not getting auxiliary voltages up in the output section....
Thanks
Don't know exact model perry it came to me missing all its covers.
All I know is its an Orion HCCA 4 channel class A/B
R768 was blown open and Q713 was shorted. Replaced both resistor and just put a PNP i had laying around into Q713.
I don't have a scematic for this amp unfortunately but looking up diagrams for the main chip it does require a PNP in that place
(Disregard the missing driver board im going to replace all the POTS. They broke when disassembly
All I know is its an Orion HCCA 4 channel class A/B
R768 was blown open and Q713 was shorted. Replaced both resistor and just put a PNP i had laying around into Q713.
I don't have a scematic for this amp unfortunately but looking up diagrams for the main chip it does require a PNP in that place
(Disregard the missing driver board im going to replace all the POTS. They broke when disassembly
The rear channels play fine with Q713 removed. With Q713 It won't build proper drive in the power supply.
Front won't work regardless. I suspect it may be due to a faulty POT on one of the cards.
I always assumed u would not need to touch the bias unless u are swapping transistors?
I don't have a clue how to bias perry. I learned on class D
#edit. Power supply fets get hot if u don't give it enough current to fully boot up. With Q713 in place they still get hot but not as hot as if u have little current(1-2A) 9v
Front won't work regardless. I suspect it may be due to a faulty POT on one of the cards.
I always assumed u would not need to touch the bias unless u are swapping transistors?
I don't have a clue how to bias perry. I learned on class D
#edit. Power supply fets get hot if u don't give it enough current to fully boot up. With Q713 in place they still get hot but not as hot as if u have little current(1-2A) 9v
The transformers scream.
It draws 0.2A with no remote. That can't be normal?
With Q713 in circut once u power it up. After about 5 seconds it will draw upwards of 13A. And transformers scream in a pulse like sound
It draws 0.2A with no remote. That can't be normal?
With Q713 in circut once u power it up. After about 5 seconds it will draw upwards of 13A. And transformers scream in a pulse like sound
It draws 13Amps then goes down to between 0.10A and 1.4A just fluctuates. (PS) Drive just keeps going on/off.
No outputs getting hot
(PS) are getting pretty warm/hot
No outputs getting hot
(PS) are getting pretty warm/hot
When the supply is switching on and off, will it produce any audio?
Do you have any DC pulsing on any bridging speaker terminals?
Do you have a 2 ohm dummy load you can insert in the B+ line to act as a limiter?
Do you have any DC pulsing on any bridging speaker terminals?
Do you have a 2 ohm dummy load you can insert in the B+ line to act as a limiter?
No audio it's just pulsing DC on the rear channels (front does nothing)
No I don't have a 2ohm dummy. I may have a 1ohm?
Do u know the purpose of Q713? Amp works fine with it removed. Well the rear anyway
No I don't have a 2ohm dummy. I may have a 1ohm?
Do u know the purpose of Q713? Amp works fine with it removed. Well the rear anyway
Only one 1 ohm resistor? How do you bench test amps without dummy loads?
I don't know this board/circuit but that transistor is used to help increase the 5v output current.
Could the pulsing DC be due to the missing board?
Could the pulsing DC be causing the amp to go into DC offset protection?
I don't know this board/circuit but that transistor is used to help increase the 5v output current.
Could the pulsing DC be due to the missing board?
Could the pulsing DC be causing the amp to go into DC offset protection?
I bench test with a subwoofer
I noticed these 2 rail caps are showing a short. There still in circut and there is voltage in the board. Not sure if that may be causing it.
Do u think mabey one of the 072Cs have gone on the front channel? Seems with that SOT23 removed it works fine. Just nothing on the front channel ever.
No I don't believe the DC is due to the missing board I just slotted it back in making sure all pins are touching and still doing it.
I noticed these 2 rail caps are showing a short. There still in circut and there is voltage in the board. Not sure if that may be causing it.
Do u think mabey one of the 072Cs have gone on the front channel? Seems with that SOT23 removed it works fine. Just nothing on the front channel ever.
No I don't believe the DC is due to the missing board I just slotted it back in making sure all pins are touching and still doing it.
How can you have 0 ohms on a rail cap and have 38v of rail voltage?
No. You shouldn't have 0 ohms across that regulator. There is sometimes a low value resistor from the output to adjust terminals but not 0 ohms, not that I've seen.
No. You shouldn't have 0 ohms across that regulator. There is sometimes a low value resistor from the output to adjust terminals but not 0 ohms, not that I've seen.