R2 left of R1 and the coil L1 to the right results in better layout. Then turn L2 and C1 vertical.
Of course not, on the PCB layout I mean. Try to place stuff so that connections are short and stuff does not go too close to eachother. Keep enough clearance also to mounting holes. The lower right side is not OK unless input connections are removed to the lower side instead of the left side.
This is your first PCB I think? The puzzle is to have all parts spread evenly over the board on and have short connections. If you do this manually then move parts and reconnect them correctly again.
This is your first PCB I think? The puzzle is to have all parts spread evenly over the board on and have short connections. If you do this manually then move parts and reconnect them correctly again.
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yes, i had installed v. 8, but with the old ubuntu something was missing, so yesterday i installed kiCad 9 with all the updated libraries and 3D models and this is the first 2way project. tomorrow i will do more updates and try as you suggested.
IMHO manual routing so like drawing with a pen is best to get the feeling. I never use the forced working method in most software with first schematic and then PCB, I always design directly to PCB. KiCad allows that (with difficulties). Everyone says I am wrong but I don't care.
I think I can do it manually too, in fact I only made the diagram the first time and then I always stayed on the pcb editor. I widen the tracks to 5mm and move the components. Let's see what comes out...
See it as a 3D puzzle or mental challenge and do not hurry. Not as a problem. Make it both functionally OK and esthetically nice with small size and sturdiness added and as least possible errors that may occur in its lifetime. Dry joints, loose connections and parts resonating are your enemies to combat.
Since 3D thinking is by far not everybody's cup of tea the software usually does that but I see that as lazyness on my part so I do the 3D myself. "Feeling" the design so to speak. Also think of how to bring connections to the outside. If you combine the PCB with directly connected banana connectors (an airtight way) as a "crossover/input PCB" you could combine matters and save input wiring and omit again an error possibility. Then it could be your private standard board for various loudspeakers to come or as an upgrade PCB with film caps and good coils/resistors instead of the usual "cheapest as possible" stuff in ready made loudspeakers. Have extra holes to have tie wraps going through them to secure large parts.
Make that thread title "PCB or not PCB, this is my challenge" 🙂
Since 3D thinking is by far not everybody's cup of tea the software usually does that but I see that as lazyness on my part so I do the 3D myself. "Feeling" the design so to speak. Also think of how to bring connections to the outside. If you combine the PCB with directly connected banana connectors (an airtight way) as a "crossover/input PCB" you could combine matters and save input wiring and omit again an error possibility. Then it could be your private standard board for various loudspeakers to come or as an upgrade PCB with film caps and good coils/resistors instead of the usual "cheapest as possible" stuff in ready made loudspeakers. Have extra holes to have tie wraps going through them to secure large parts.
Make that thread title "PCB or not PCB, this is my challenge" 🙂
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keep in mind that this cross must be mounted on a LS 3/5a front panel, the one I was talking about in my other topic (same woofer...) with different components than T27 and B110, but mounted in the same way. the classic 15ohm cross is positioned above the tweeter and the wires are soldered directly to the cross. this will remain on that panel forever, so I can also do it like this.
PCB tracks are sometimes WAY too close to the pins of parts. Keep clearance certainly with so much empty space without copper.
- The cap in the upper left has its + track almost touching its - pin for no reason. The 45 degrees angled track can be moved to the left. The + input track can be the neighbor of the - input track path at the lower side and the - input tracks can be moved to the right a little. The - input PCB pad can stay where it is or have it slightly more to the left to create clearance to L1.
- Also avoid plain ugliness by making Y connections. Don't make V shaped PCB tracks with a PCB pad of a part being the point. Use 45 degree angles and keep PCB pads only connected to 1 PCB track. This makes soldering easier.
- R2 can be moved with its lower pin aligned with L2's lower pin creating more clearance to the mounting hole and creating a straight PCB track to the tweeters - pin. Now is the time to think if you desire the speaker wiring to have also a tie wraps besides them being connected via a connector. Double security. So 2 extra holes per connector at the outside of the PCB to have tie wraps at a sound distance to the connector block to allow some cable slack.
- Having extra PCB pads or holes in PCB tracks may come in handy for measuring or temporary testing by soldering in test pins. They are free. Not everybody like this.
- Adding 2 extra pins per input/output connection to cater for 6.3 mm faston connectors is 100% free. Extra pads for possible extra parts or simply differently sized parts are very handy if you decide to change the filter later on. Like footprints for both electrolytic bipolar caps but also 100V MKT and maybe even 250V MKS film caps. Just an example, it will give freedom and not being tied to just 1 cap version by brand X type Y that is obsolete next month.
So that was more than enough of my time, good luck with your PCB design!
- The cap in the upper left has its + track almost touching its - pin for no reason. The 45 degrees angled track can be moved to the left. The + input track can be the neighbor of the - input track path at the lower side and the - input tracks can be moved to the right a little. The - input PCB pad can stay where it is or have it slightly more to the left to create clearance to L1.
- Also avoid plain ugliness by making Y connections. Don't make V shaped PCB tracks with a PCB pad of a part being the point. Use 45 degree angles and keep PCB pads only connected to 1 PCB track. This makes soldering easier.
- R2 can be moved with its lower pin aligned with L2's lower pin creating more clearance to the mounting hole and creating a straight PCB track to the tweeters - pin. Now is the time to think if you desire the speaker wiring to have also a tie wraps besides them being connected via a connector. Double security. So 2 extra holes per connector at the outside of the PCB to have tie wraps at a sound distance to the connector block to allow some cable slack.
- Having extra PCB pads or holes in PCB tracks may come in handy for measuring or temporary testing by soldering in test pins. They are free. Not everybody like this.
- Adding 2 extra pins per input/output connection to cater for 6.3 mm faston connectors is 100% free. Extra pads for possible extra parts or simply differently sized parts are very handy if you decide to change the filter later on. Like footprints for both electrolytic bipolar caps but also 100V MKT and maybe even 250V MKS film caps. Just an example, it will give freedom and not being tied to just 1 cap version by brand X type Y that is obsolete next month.
So that was more than enough of my time, good luck with your PCB design!
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let me understand, I see many cards with the tracks that group together in various shapes. are they shapes created specifically or are they the consequence of the type of crossover?
That is more like it. Thank Jean-Paul for his advice. You've got one trace to pad clearance problem left that I can see - at the negative terminal of the big cap on the left side.
You have plenty of room, go bigger traces and space away from solder pads, which could also be bigger.