The clear LED in the Pearl 3 kit are green.Those clear LEDs in the kit should be blue when lit.
Very necessary if you want good noise performance.I have to ask, I have good ground to all chassis pieces except the front panel, is this particularly necessary?
+ 1 on 6L6... RIAA preamps are the most sensitive HIFi device I know
I tried to measure mine (DIY but not Pearl 3) while on my working bench, without casing, just to make sure all was Ok... and I failed miserably. It measured awfully without casing, to the point I thought it was defect (it wasn't, perfectly noise free in a cookie later, sounds great)
I tried to measure mine (DIY but not Pearl 3) while on my working bench, without casing, just to make sure all was Ok... and I failed miserably. It measured awfully without casing, to the point I thought it was defect (it wasn't, perfectly noise free in a cookie later, sounds great)
It is certainly advisable, at least, and possibly necessary. It's also pretty easy to accomplish if your front panel screws make good contact with the panel, since they will also make good contact with the other parts of the chassis into which they are screwed. Why doesn't your front panel make good contact?
Yeah, guess I sort of knew you would say that! I assume people are sanding the coating on the faceplate, any tricks, it seems pretty hard?Very necessary if you want good noise performance.
@Toys4Boys
@6L6
But it's still aluminum, right? Not steel like the top and bottom plates. Or like my cookie tin.
I've been wondering about this shielding aspect. There is "RFID fabric" out there that the purveyors suggests works like a Faraday cage -- what we want, right? Maybe "bagging" the enclosure with this stuff too would help?
Or is a properly bonded intact (complete) aluminum enclosure -- with remote PSUs... all of them -- OK?
@6L6
But it's still aluminum, right? Not steel like the top and bottom plates. Or like my cookie tin.
I've been wondering about this shielding aspect. There is "RFID fabric" out there that the purveyors suggests works like a Faraday cage -- what we want, right? Maybe "bagging" the enclosure with this stuff too would help?
Or is a properly bonded intact (complete) aluminum enclosure -- with remote PSUs... all of them -- OK?
Drill small hole on backside, tap, screw with wire to chassis ground?Yeah, guess I sort of knew you would say that! I assume people are sanding the coating on the faceplate, any tricks, it seems pretty hard?
@TungstenAudio I wasn't getting continuity on the faceplate until I sanded it.
The aluminum faceplate itself does not need to be altered to get a good ground. The steel top and bottom plates should be sanded / filed to expose some bare metal that will contact the faceplate.
Re: the aluminum, this is incorrect information. The anodizing can act as a very good electrical insulator and in most cases it will need to be scraped to bare metal to ensure electrical connection to the rest of the chassis.
Yes, 100% the paint needs to be scraped from the steel.
@mhenschel A (properly bonded) all-aluminum chassis is more than good enough for shielded. My prototypes are aluminum.
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