I use a Technics MKII with Ortofon M2 Red (MM with recommendation for 47 kOhm and 150 to 300 pF)
I have tried multiple settings, with jumper on and off, the level changes, but still the highs are muted.
I have another Phono stage that works properly. So no issues with the Phono head.
Have you tried only 220pF switched in at the input of your PEARL 3?
Set the gain jumper at the PEARL 3 for low gain (because it is a MM - cartridge)
If this doesn't help, then I would assume, that anywhere in the RIAA - network there is a wrong resistor-value.
This can happen very easily with colour coded resistors.
These are my assumptions, because as you describe it it doesn't sound distorted. Only a imbalance between highs and bass.
Cheers
Dirk
Set the gain jumper at the PEARL 3 for low gain (because it is a MM - cartridge)
If this doesn't help, then I would assume, that anywhere in the RIAA - network there is a wrong resistor-value.
This can happen very easily with colour coded resistors.
These are my assumptions, because as you describe it it doesn't sound distorted. Only a imbalance between highs and bass.
Cheers
Dirk
Speaking of alignment ot cartridge and tonearm, I just installed a new moving coil. AudioTechnica 33 PTG/ll. I was concerned it's ruler flat response might not tickle my rhythm bone. Shouldn't have worried. With current set up, nice warm presentation, Hugh sound scape and strong bass/lower end.
I've tried any possible jumpers combination. The output level only changes. The low highs is common. I also suspect the RIAA network.
Curious about the voltages you have on the Op Amp (mainly leg 1)
I've been using another commercial phono stage (Pro-Ject S2) on the same turntable with no issues.
Tryfon.....
Anyway.... start with the correct settings for dip´s and gain.
Gainjumper ON, all dip switches OFF, only (maybe) DIP-6 ON on both channels.
That´s the correct setting for your MM cartridge.
If still "dull" sound, doublecheck your riaa-component values (resistors AND cap´s)
Also check the soldering of the dip.switches. If a solder-"blob" accidentally har one of the MC-loading resistors ON all the time,
thart would give the result, you´re experiencing.
Anyway.... start with the correct settings for dip´s and gain.
Gainjumper ON, all dip switches OFF, only (maybe) DIP-6 ON on both channels.
That´s the correct setting for your MM cartridge.
If still "dull" sound, doublecheck your riaa-component values (resistors AND cap´s)
Also check the soldering of the dip.switches. If a solder-"blob" accidentally har one of the MC-loading resistors ON all the time,
thart would give the result, you´re experiencing.
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@Boydk that was it! All DIPs off and it's alive! Which of course, makes sense as I was too blind to interpret 47.000 to 47 KOhm
Thank you very much.
Thank you also @cubicincher and @MEPER for your recomendations.
So happy to welcome the Pearl 3 to my system
Thank you very much.
Thank you also @cubicincher and @MEPER for your recomendations.
So happy to welcome the Pearl 3 to my system
Congratulaion
Isn´t it nice, when it´s that easy
Enjoy your Pearl-3.
Unfortunately, my own build keeps being postponed.
Was supposed to finish it this weekend. Had ordered the Schurter AC inlet, and forgot to read the full comment.
It came without the fuse holder
Same with the cable gland for the PSU. It came without the nut.
I need to remember to read the full specs when ordering, Specially looking for the comment
" Has to be ordered separately"..........but who the hell sells a car without weels?
Going through my stash of components, and out of 7915.
Went through all my friends within a 10 mile radius........ no go, so what should have been a listening session today ended
up with nothing.
Well........ tomorrow the stores are open again
@Boydk: Unless you need the Schurter AC Inlet for size, I have used it recently (as per Randy's BoM) and found it expensive and no better than this alternative:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SK11V9C?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Have been using the above inlets for years and they include the fuse and have wiring that is very easy to accomodate.
@tryfon_21: Congrats on your easy fix and good-looking chassis. Have been experimenting with dip settings for weeks now and have found that in my case (VPI Prime with Ortofon Blue Quintet MC cartridge) the values make a significant change in overall audio quality. This cartridge has a maker recco of >20 and Internet sources compute the ideal between 70 and 700 ohms. 70 ohms proved too harsh although percussion was a total gas. Tried 892 for a high setting and it was dull and "meh." Then used 249 for a week and it was good. Today tried moving from 195 on up to 243 and found that these small ohm changes made a marked difference in air and timbral accuracy. Settled now on 243 ohms and will use that for a while. The P3 dip values are spread nicely from 29 to 100 then clumped together from 195 to 249. Perhaps with your MM cartridge the 47000 value is a no-brainer?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SK11V9C?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Have been using the above inlets for years and they include the fuse and have wiring that is very easy to accomodate.
@tryfon_21: Congrats on your easy fix and good-looking chassis. Have been experimenting with dip settings for weeks now and have found that in my case (VPI Prime with Ortofon Blue Quintet MC cartridge) the values make a significant change in overall audio quality. This cartridge has a maker recco of >20 and Internet sources compute the ideal between 70 and 700 ohms. 70 ohms proved too harsh although percussion was a total gas. Tried 892 for a high setting and it was dull and "meh." Then used 249 for a week and it was good. Today tried moving from 195 on up to 243 and found that these small ohm changes made a marked difference in air and timbral accuracy. Settled now on 243 ohms and will use that for a while. The P3 dip values are spread nicely from 29 to 100 then clumped together from 195 to 249. Perhaps with your MM cartridge the 47000 value is a no-brainer?
@Toys4Boys: The Internet sources I examined claimed that capacitance value changes only affected MM cartridges, not MC ones. Have no knowledge myself but have been keeping the capacitance switches (#s 6-7) off and the sound is fine as noted above.
Ugh, someone jump in if I'm confused, but impedance adjustments are primarily for MM, while capacitance for MC. Usually the manufacturer lists the recommended capacitance, but that would be just the cartridge. The conventional method for adjusting the cap. is to keep increasing it until the sound becomes "tizzy", then back it down 1.
Thanks for the link, but a little too late.
And besides, it doesn´t fit the cutout on Gianluca´s enclosure.
I know, it´s expensive, but (at least here in Denmark) everywhere I looked, the inlets available were either not
tall enough or wide enough for the cutout. I wanted it to look as nice as it suposedly plays, so Schurter it was
Just wish, they would stop ripping people off by selling products with "missing" parts
Good one
As you later corrected..... It´s the other way around.
And then...... I sometimes wish, todays phonostages would have impedance loading for MM´s as the old japanese gear had.
Sometimes 50/100/200/300pF is not enough to tame a MM cartridge.
If we had the possibilities of 33K/39K/47K/56K/68K/75K/100K, it would be much easier to get our wanted
frequency response from a MM