@mhenschel Yes, the output voltages do seem pretty close. I have not yet build my own Pearl 3 yet so will be reading up, too. I think, though, that I could get some understanding of how the Pearl 3 might work by reading up on similar cartridges. The P3 can do LOMC, so sure, it should be fine. Additionally, one could also wander into the world of step-up transformers, of which I am a fan.
Azimuth and VTA were set by the use of a digital microscope and more than a fewhours afternoons of taking snapshots and comparing. I used this 'scope:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NBY6G9S And while the 'scope itself is nice, the company and their response time leaves a lot to be desired. I don't have a Fozgometer, so I can't say for certain how exact my azimuth is. It's likely closer than I think. Who knows! I did not hear a night and day difference once the azimuth was close. Might be my hearing, might be the rest of my system.
I can definitely say that my VTA is spot-on, and changing it truly made a difference to me. It was on the wow scale. To do this I used the 'scope above and an online protractor that allowed me to upload the photo and measure the angle of the stylus. I was in hog heaven when I found that site. I'm fairly sure it was this one: https://www.ginifab.com/feeds/angle_measurement/ Just choose a background image (that was taken with the stylus), measure and adjust. I think it's close to the 93 degree suggestion purported by a certain analog writer... Anyway, below is a pic of the final VTA alignment, as seen by the stylus. Taking these pics is no walk in the park. Wedge something between the platter and plinth so it doesn't move, take the pic on an actual record, use the zoom feature of the 'scope and move s l o w l y and carefully.
This is why I mentioned analog being (wonderfully) mechanical and therefore probably requiring some by-hand tweaking. I was frustrated when my turntable arrived set up in such a haphazard way but it forced me to learn more about alignments and teach myself that it is doable. It turns out I had fun and will gladly do it again.
Azimuth and VTA were set by the use of a digital microscope and more than a few
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NBY6G9S And while the 'scope itself is nice, the company and their response time leaves a lot to be desired. I don't have a Fozgometer, so I can't say for certain how exact my azimuth is. It's likely closer than I think. Who knows! I did not hear a night and day difference once the azimuth was close. Might be my hearing, might be the rest of my system.
I can definitely say that my VTA is spot-on, and changing it truly made a difference to me. It was on the wow scale. To do this I used the 'scope above and an online protractor that allowed me to upload the photo and measure the angle of the stylus. I was in hog heaven when I found that site. I'm fairly sure it was this one: https://www.ginifab.com/feeds/angle_measurement/ Just choose a background image (that was taken with the stylus), measure and adjust. I think it's close to the 93 degree suggestion purported by a certain analog writer... Anyway, below is a pic of the final VTA alignment, as seen by the stylus. Taking these pics is no walk in the park. Wedge something between the platter and plinth so it doesn't move, take the pic on an actual record, use the zoom feature of the 'scope and move s l o w l y and carefully.
This is why I mentioned analog being (wonderfully) mechanical and therefore probably requiring some by-hand tweaking. I was frustrated when my turntable arrived set up in such a haphazard way but it forced me to learn more about alignments and teach myself that it is doable. It turns out I had fun and will gladly do it again.
I am..... for one..... NO noise problem.
You can play my recorded examples from earlier in the thread and decide..... Most of them were made using an Audio Technica AT33-PTG/II 😉
I would at least try a nice moving coil cartridge before giving up. Maybe you already did?
Russellc
That is the same as I have mounted on my main turntable. Almost a total absence of surface noise.
Russellc
Would that make a big difference from the Rega stock Exact cartridge? What's considered a nice MC cartridge? Thx
Agree on the VTA. Mine is adjustable on the fly, which I personally think is a great idea.
Well yes, but before you go down the rabbit hole of upgrading, I'd suggest trying to figure out what is the cause of your dissatisfaction. I mean, is your system working as it should - go back to the dealer who sold it to you and see how it sounds there with your records. I'm familiar with your front-end and whilst there will be some surface noise, I wouldn't expect it to be excessive.
Boydk's AT-33 is a nice cartridge last time I heard it (not at Boydk's I hasten to add), but new costs around 50% of your turntable, and IME high-end MCs are great, but not the most cost-effective improvements.
There are many good MC cartridges - such as Hana, Denon, Dynavector - everyone has their favourites and it is system-dependent, so better to do some listening at a dealer who can do a proper demo and see if it works for you. If you'd like to experiment with an MC, the Audio Technica AT-0C5 and 0C7s are available on eBay used - with buyers protection - for very reasonable prices. They are very good, IME, may highlight other issues, but could be a useful experiment.
PM me if you like, as system setup is OT here.
Definitely OT, but feel free to PM me as well. Happy to help. As a parting shot, just know that not any cartridge will go on any tonearm.
...yes, I'm done now!
@tonyEE: what are you trying to accomplish?
High gain I forgot which one of R22 or R9. Either way, I might have to swap one of them since my P3 was built for the 1.0mV of the Grado. Meaning it has a different gain profile than the standard P3.
My P2 has a rear panel switch/knob that allows setting three different gain levels. I miss that in the P3.
My P2 has a rear panel switch/knob that allows setting three different gain levels. I miss that in the P3.
Yeah, a rear panel switch is probably easier than getting inside the chassis. But that could be done here as well...
It looks like it would be R22. There is a lot of info regarding changing the gain since 220R might be the lower limit, how this change would affect U1a, etc. Wow, I suddenly have so much to learn before I even buy parts!
You could consider a SUT, plug that into the MM stage and get back to your tunes. Erhard Audio took over the K&K Audio site from Kevin and still sells SUT kits. I have one and love it. https://www.erhard-audio.com/SUT_Kits.html
It looks like it would be R22. There is a lot of info regarding changing the gain since 220R might be the lower limit, how this change would affect U1a, etc. Wow, I suddenly have so much to learn before I even buy parts!
You could consider a SUT, plug that into the MM stage and get back to your tunes. Erhard Audio took over the K&K Audio site from Kevin and still sells SUT kits. I have one and love it. https://www.erhard-audio.com/SUT_Kits.html
Absolutely no need to buy a SUT with the Pearl-3.
I know. I have Silk Audio´s MC-220A, Sowter and Cinemag´s.
As much as I have preferred them with different riaa´s, they are not in use now.
The MC stage in Pearl-3 is unusually quiet, and has more than enough gain to satisfy even the lowest output MC´s.
I even reduced the R9 2,2K to 1,2K to go with the 300µV AT-33PTG/II. Still more than enough gain and dead quiet.
I know. I have Silk Audio´s MC-220A, Sowter and Cinemag´s.
As much as I have preferred them with different riaa´s, they are not in use now.
The MC stage in Pearl-3 is unusually quiet, and has more than enough gain to satisfy even the lowest output MC´s.
I even reduced the R9 2,2K to 1,2K to go with the 300µV AT-33PTG/II. Still more than enough gain and dead quiet.
In case anyone is interested in trying them, I'm getting some LME49720HA opamps from Gaetano_au in Australia.
Craigl59 tried it and went back to the NJM2068D; Boydk used the HA version in his latest build. 😎
Shipping adds a bit, but there's room for more. PM please.
Craigl59 tried it and went back to the NJM2068D; Boydk used the HA version in his latest build. 😎
Shipping adds a bit, but there's room for more. PM please.
- Mono LME49710HA @ US$4 = £3.20
- Mono LME49713HA @ US$4 = £3.20
- Dual LME49720HA @ US$6 = £4.80
New Schurter is in, but the switch hasn't arrived yet from Mouser...shipping delay. Hope to wrap it up by Friday evening!
Hello,
If you have the time and energy... I am not sure where and for how much I could sell my expertly DIY'ed and very good looking and sounding Pearl 3 phono amp... It cost me about 1k Canadian $, which translates to about 700 USD. A lot of love went into it, for sure.
If you have the time and energy... I am not sure where and for how much I could sell my expertly DIY'ed and very good looking and sounding Pearl 3 phono amp... It cost me about 1k Canadian $, which translates to about 700 USD. A lot of love went into it, for sure.