Swap Meet here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/forums/swap-meet.2/
Don't forget to mention what you've done to it 🙂
Don't forget to mention what you've done to it 🙂
Hi Raduschka,
If you successfully sold this, I recommend building a Pass XONO Clone instead. 😉
I'm planning on building the Pearl 3 and housing it in what is currently a Rotel 970BX case (44x16cm). I just had a few initial queries: Will the boards fit in the case OK? Do I need a PSU? There is currently one in the Rotel which provides 17vdc on each rail. Could I use that one? I'm using an Ortofon quintet red MC cartridge which is rated at .5mV output. What resistor valued should I start with? Also, I have some audio grade poly capacitors hanging around. Is there value in upgrading any of the caps provided with the boards? Finally, I have some Burson V6 vivid single op amps. Can these be fitted or are the op amps dual? Thanks!
the Pearl is a precision highly sensitive device.
regardless of the case best to have a remote power supply... like the build guide suggests
regardless of the case best to have a remote power supply... like the build guide suggests
@Locky101 - Check the dimensions of the boards and read the build guide / build document first. That should answer all your existing questions. If there are gaps or if anything is unclear, re-post with specifics.
Caps... as always, YMMV. I'd suggest that you build it with what's provided, then swap them out. Then you'll know if they make a difference you prefer.
Caps... as always, YMMV. I'd suggest that you build it with what's provided, then swap them out. Then you'll know if they make a difference you prefer.
@Locky101
Will the boards fit in the case OK?
The PCB are 140x90mm, they are mono, you need two boards for stereo.
Do I need a PSU?
Of some kind, yes, of course.
There is currently one in the Rotel which provides 17vdc on each rail. Could I use that one?
+/-17 Vdc ? If yes, perhaps it will work. Will be be quiet enough in the same chassis as the RIAA boards? You’ll need to find out, I suspect it won’t.
I'm using an Ortofon quintet red MC cartridge which is rated at .5mV output. What resistor valued should I start with?
Ortofon says, “greater than 20ohm” so start with 50. See if you like more, it’s easy enough to experiment.
Also, I have some audio grade poly capacitors hanging around. Is there value in upgrading any of the caps provided with the boards?
Doubtful. But you are welcome to try things out and see for yourself.
Finally, I have some Burson V6 vivid single op amps. Can these be fitted or are the op amps dual?
The opamps in Pearl 3 are duals. The supplied NJM2068 were chosen for a number of very specific reasons, and users have found them to be amongst the best they’ve tried in the circuit. Feel free to experiment, of course.
Correct, and particularly important if you are going to use an MC cartridge. Pearl 3 is remarkable quiet in its stock form, but that performance is predicated on the RIAA section being nowhere near a power transformer.
Will the boards fit in the case OK?
The PCB are 140x90mm, they are mono, you need two boards for stereo.
Do I need a PSU?
Of some kind, yes, of course.
There is currently one in the Rotel which provides 17vdc on each rail. Could I use that one?
+/-17 Vdc ? If yes, perhaps it will work. Will be be quiet enough in the same chassis as the RIAA boards? You’ll need to find out, I suspect it won’t.
I'm using an Ortofon quintet red MC cartridge which is rated at .5mV output. What resistor valued should I start with?
Ortofon says, “greater than 20ohm” so start with 50. See if you like more, it’s easy enough to experiment.
Also, I have some audio grade poly capacitors hanging around. Is there value in upgrading any of the caps provided with the boards?
Doubtful. But you are welcome to try things out and see for yourself.
Finally, I have some Burson V6 vivid single op amps. Can these be fitted or are the op amps dual?
The opamps in Pearl 3 are duals. The supplied NJM2068 were chosen for a number of very specific reasons, and users have found them to be amongst the best they’ve tried in the circuit. Feel free to experiment, of course.
Correct, and particularly important if you are going to use an MC cartridge. Pearl 3 is remarkable quiet in its stock form, but that performance is predicated on the RIAA section being nowhere near a power transformer.
If you're going to install Burson opamps, the V7 Vivid and Classics are much better than the V6, V5 and V4.
Two duals in the P3 indeed. Make sure you got headroom in the case. They stick out, specially if you use the socket that Burson provides.
The V7s are also shorter than the V6.
I'm in the middle of reviewing a ton of opamps... but I just upgraded my turntable so back to square 2 ( I already sort of know most of their differences ).
Two duals in the P3 indeed. Make sure you got headroom in the case. They stick out, specially if you use the socket that Burson provides.
The V7s are also shorter than the V6.
I'm in the middle of reviewing a ton of opamps... but I just upgraded my turntable so back to square 2 ( I already sort of know most of their differences ).
Do I need a PSU?
Of some kind, yes, of course
It looks like the kit comes with a PSU board but I have to source the components to populate this (as well as casing). Is that right?
Of some kind, yes, of course
It looks like the kit comes with a PSU board but I have to source the components to populate this (as well as casing). Is that right?
Correct.
Etsy seller ThatcherDIYAudio ( @rhthatcher here on diyAudio ) has a parts kit for the PSU - https://www.etsy.com/listing/173021...662507b0edc5422f45e1dc930874563ca1:1730212441
I know... I know... it's not a Pearl 3.
Got it back.... here's a pretty picture. I think he made only two of them... he can take a bow, let him. Now, I can really go nuts.... P3 vs P2.... hmm maybe it depends on the opamps? Or hey? Maybe the difference is between the belt drive or that direct set up?
And if I buy (when) the ultrasonic cleaner.... VPI HW16.5 or Ultrasonic? 40 Khz vs 150 Khz...
Time to go nuts.
I can see why people go digital.
Nice job though. Custom screen work. The man is a genius. Power supply is separate, of course. And yes, that's an Italian Leather Couch from the late 80s....
Got it back.... here's a pretty picture. I think he made only two of them... he can take a bow, let him. Now, I can really go nuts.... P3 vs P2.... hmm maybe it depends on the opamps? Or hey? Maybe the difference is between the belt drive or that direct set up?
And if I buy (when) the ultrasonic cleaner.... VPI HW16.5 or Ultrasonic? 40 Khz vs 150 Khz...
Time to go nuts.
I can see why people go digital.
Nice job though. Custom screen work. The man is a genius. Power supply is separate, of course. And yes, that's an Italian Leather Couch from the late 80s....
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So I replaced the Schurter and the switch, and wouldn't you know it? It works! Got a nice green LED a-glowing, and a nice Red LED a-glowing, and the little blue guy on the face plate looking all satisfied with itself. Fairly certain I had a dud Schurter AND a bad switch (due to broiling it with an overheated soldering iron). Thanks everyone for the help!!
I may have spoken too soon...I can turn it on, but when i switch it off at the front panel, it takes well over a minute for the LEDs to go out, even if it was switched on for just a second. Is that normal?? And for the switch on the front to work, the Schurter is Off. When the Schurter is On, the swtch does diddly. I know this is simple, but so am I, so I'm just going to have a nice whiskey and read a good book. 🤣
How are you measuring this?
If the switch works when the Schurter is "off" then the Schurter is on. If the switch doesn't work when the Schurter is "on" then the Schurter is off.
Yes, the LEDs will stay lit for a bit after switching off. the filter caps in the PSU are storing energy and will discharge for a bit after turning off, keeping the LEDs on.
I didn't quite understand the choice of a front panel power switch given the Schurter has its own switch. It does make it so you don't have to fiddle with the back of the PSU chassis but I tend towards simple as possible without making things unsafe.
If the switch works when the Schurter is "off" then the Schurter is on. If the switch doesn't work when the Schurter is "on" then the Schurter is off.
Yes, the LEDs will stay lit for a bit after switching off. the filter caps in the PSU are storing energy and will discharge for a bit after turning off, keeping the LEDs on.
I didn't quite understand the choice of a front panel power switch given the Schurter has its own switch. It does make it so you don't have to fiddle with the back of the PSU chassis but I tend towards simple as possible without making things unsafe.
Measuring? Not sure i understand the question. It's on or off.
Maybe i don't inderstand how On and Off work, but if the Schurter switch is Off, i shouldn't be able to do anything with the front switch, no? But for the front switch to power On or Off, the Shurter needs to be Off.
As long as the thing doesn't have other issues, i'm not going to worry about it. But I'm saying that after a cuppla nice Speysides.
Maybe i don't inderstand how On and Off work, but if the Schurter switch is Off, i shouldn't be able to do anything with the front switch, no? But for the front switch to power On or Off, the Shurter needs to be Off.
As long as the thing doesn't have other issues, i'm not going to worry about it. But I'm saying that after a cuppla nice Speysides.