Hi all,
I'm looking at using the transport from my CDB630 and rebuilding/modifying to improve performance. Seems to the the floppy clamp/holder could be improved along with other mods to reduce vibration. Read someplace about a magnetic clamp or some other design? Maybe move it into a better chassis (thick aluminum w/vibration damping)? I added damping to the top cover, 1lb brass weight on top and sorbo iso-feet under chassis, which all made an improvement. I still like the DAC (crown S2) out to a tube stage, but might want to try a different DAC just to compare?
Or maybe someone has a Cambridge, Sony, Teac, etc transport for sale?
I'm looking at using the transport from my CDB630 and rebuilding/modifying to improve performance. Seems to the the floppy clamp/holder could be improved along with other mods to reduce vibration. Read someplace about a magnetic clamp or some other design? Maybe move it into a better chassis (thick aluminum w/vibration damping)? I added damping to the top cover, 1lb brass weight on top and sorbo iso-feet under chassis, which all made an improvement. I still like the DAC (crown S2) out to a tube stage, but might want to try a different DAC just to compare?
Or maybe someone has a Cambridge, Sony, Teac, etc transport for sale?
Magnetic clamps are better by far. You want that spinning assembly to be low mass.
The problem with pressure clamps is wear and additional vibration. You may see a tiny "divot" where the ball bearing rides. If it has no ball bearing, it is even cheaper. The contact surfaces must be smooth, the pressure plate part needs to be flat and smooth. There should be a lubricant there as well.
The problem with pressure clamps is wear and additional vibration. You may see a tiny "divot" where the ball bearing rides. If it has no ball bearing, it is even cheaper. The contact surfaces must be smooth, the pressure plate part needs to be flat and smooth. There should be a lubricant there as well.
So where do I get a magnetic clamp? Or does the entire mech need to be designed for that in the first place for a magnetic clamp to work? From what I can see the Philips is a plastic pressure clamp with a plastic "puck" that floats in the clamp. Sloppy. Doesn't seem to be a very good design to hold the CD in place. Any DIY kits out there?
Well, the disc table is replaced for a ferrous metal one. Probably from a Sony CD player, same for the clamp. The clamps mate with specific tables. The table height is critical. The tricky part is the arm. You may be able to modify the one you have. The disc (spindle) motor shafts should be the same diameter.
I have pressure plates for those machines around here somewhere, or that type anyway. Soft nylon. They were a problem. Back in time, Denon had a modification kits for some of their machines to convert to magnetic clamping. SPK-154 and SPK-159 were the kit numbers, long discontinued.
I have pressure plates for those machines around here somewhere, or that type anyway. Soft nylon. They were a problem. Back in time, Denon had a modification kits for some of their machines to convert to magnetic clamping. SPK-154 and SPK-159 were the kit numbers, long discontinued.
Find what? The arm on a Denon kit wouldn't fit anyway.
A kit was never produced for these. The main parts can be had from a different CD mechanism using a magnetic clamp. Make sure you get the "puck" as well, they go together. The chucking arm will be a custom job.
A kit was never produced for these. The main parts can be had from a different CD mechanism using a magnetic clamp. Make sure you get the "puck" as well, they go together. The chucking arm will be a custom job.
Yes. Early CD players pressed the disc chuck down with pressure. The surface bearing down was the pressure plate. They had different names for it depending on manufacturer. 100% of them had wear problems. The magnetic clamp completely eliminated this. The arm disconnects from it completely.