Seemed to do the trick! Thank You!
I found a power switch at Radio Shack that works fine. Just needs a internal sub-bezel I'll make from sheet metal later. No need to ruin the deck, I wont need to modify and it'll be ready for a NOS if I ever find one.
I never did change the main flywheel belt as the one it has works fine. Looks like a bear to replace and I couldn't be bothered (at least until I was sure the deck wasn't bad, and now thanks to you - all good!)
Peace
I found a power switch at Radio Shack that works fine. Just needs a internal sub-bezel I'll make from sheet metal later. No need to ruin the deck, I wont need to modify and it'll be ready for a NOS if I ever find one.
I never did change the main flywheel belt as the one it has works fine. Looks like a bear to replace and I couldn't be bothered (at least until I was sure the deck wasn't bad, and now thanks to you - all good!)
Peace
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Thanks. I got some lubricant and used it on the dials after cleaning. The cleaner I used on everything else.
I wouldn't use WD-40 on any electronic gear, It's a 'water dispersant' made of thick oil and solvents. Spray some in a bowl and wait a few days to see what it is. If it were mine I would inject Nye Oil II (synthetic light machine oil. Good stuff) using a syringe to exactly where it is needed. It will not gum up or attack plastics.
G²
I have the very same problem on my SONY TC-186SD cassette tape deck. The long multi-contact switch on the PCB, operated by the record button has contact problem. The spring at the end does not push it fully to the initial position. Operating the REC button several times cures the issue for a while. Lubricating did not help. It probably needs some mechanical alignment.
Ah that doesn't sound good. Maybe try cleaner first?
I used a radio shack cleaner for all first, including the solenoid switches. Tape heads, roller etc I used 91% alcohol. Then I used the radio shack brand electronics lubricant on the dials, mainly because one was real tight. Loose with cleaner, but the lube did the trick.
For the solenoid switches on the board, they are barely visible and I didn't feel comfortable spraying lube. Been playing and recording for some hours and so far so good. From my beginning post I can't believe that all the issues were just from crud. Probably not thoroughly cleaned since the 70's.
Anyway, I'm going to recommend the rak-shack separate cans of cleaner and lubricant. I wouldnt bother with the combo can.
I used a radio shack cleaner for all first, including the solenoid switches. Tape heads, roller etc I used 91% alcohol. Then I used the radio shack brand electronics lubricant on the dials, mainly because one was real tight. Loose with cleaner, but the lube did the trick.
For the solenoid switches on the board, they are barely visible and I didn't feel comfortable spraying lube. Been playing and recording for some hours and so far so good. From my beginning post I can't believe that all the issues were just from crud. Probably not thoroughly cleaned since the 70's.
Anyway, I'm going to recommend the rak-shack separate cans of cleaner and lubricant. I wouldnt bother with the combo can.
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Hi,
I was was wondering if anyone here could help me out... I recently purchased an old Pioneer System (SX-750, CT-F9191 and HPM-100).
When I switch on the tape deck... all the lights are dim and the tape deck does not operate... I was wondering if this has ever happened to anyone else?
Another thing is, only the left channel works on the SX-750 receiver... any ideas?
Although I'm not an expert, far from it, I have repaired an Pioneer GM-120 car stereo amp in the past... that is with the precious help of diyaudio members 🙂
Once again thank you all.
Rod.
I was was wondering if anyone here could help me out... I recently purchased an old Pioneer System (SX-750, CT-F9191 and HPM-100).
When I switch on the tape deck... all the lights are dim and the tape deck does not operate... I was wondering if this has ever happened to anyone else?
Another thing is, only the left channel works on the SX-750 receiver... any ideas?
Although I'm not an expert, far from it, I have repaired an Pioneer GM-120 car stereo amp in the past... that is with the precious help of diyaudio members 🙂
Once again thank you all.
Rod.
You might be better starting a new thread on each faulty item tbh 🙂
The cassette deck should be an easy fix. Dim lights indicates lack of voltage. If it happens all the time check the rails (voltage selector OK, not a 240 vac model running on 120). If the lights are OK and dim when the deck operates then look to a seized motor/mech dragging the voltage down.
The missing channel could be anything from a speaker fuse to a blown output stage (IC or discrete) through to cracked print, i.e. physical damage somewhere.
The cassette deck should be an easy fix. Dim lights indicates lack of voltage. If it happens all the time check the rails (voltage selector OK, not a 240 vac model running on 120). If the lights are OK and dim when the deck operates then look to a seized motor/mech dragging the voltage down.
The missing channel could be anything from a speaker fuse to a blown output stage (IC or discrete) through to cracked print, i.e. physical damage somewhere.
Hi Mooly, your absolutely right... I'll try a new thread for each item. 😉
On the vin plate on the back the tape deck indicates 120v but inside the transformer indicates "step-down auto transformer 230v/115v and 50-60hz"
I have the deck connected to a voltage transformer (110v/220v)... can I connect the deck directly to 220v? Will it damage the deck or will it only blow a fuse?
Thanks once again.
On the vin plate on the back the tape deck indicates 120v but inside the transformer indicates "step-down auto transformer 230v/115v and 50-60hz"
I have the deck connected to a voltage transformer (110v/220v)... can I connect the deck directly to 220v? Will it damage the deck or will it only blow a fuse?
Thanks once again.
I wouldn't like to say regarding the transformer tbh, not without seeing it all first hand and doing some measurements. An auto transformer is very different to a "normal" transformer in that it provides no isolation.
So without seeing it all I wouldn't like to say for sure... and yes, it could do more than just blow a fuse. Semiconductors can be damaged in an instant with overvoltage.
So without seeing it all I wouldn't like to say for sure... and yes, it could do more than just blow a fuse. Semiconductors can be damaged in an instant with overvoltage.
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