Does anyone know of any tube caps that can fit the 832A, or can recommend modifications of existing plate caps?
Info on the tube here: http://tdsl.duncanamps.com/show.php?des=832A
Info on the tube here: http://tdsl.duncanamps.com/show.php?des=832A
I don't believe thay make such a thing. What I'd do is get a couple of Fahnstock connectors, and use those to connect to the plate pins. (Also looks like they're due for a good cleaning.) Granted, they're not insulated, so you'll have to cage those beasts to eliminate the shock hazard.
The other possibility is to have a couple turned from brass rod stock. These can even be made with cooling fins (which is what you'd do if using them as RF amps, or audio if you're pushing the max ratings). The connections would be made with small set screws. Again, you'll have to cage 'em.
The other possibility is to have a couple turned from brass rod stock. These can even be made with cooling fins (which is what you'd do if using them as RF amps, or audio if you're pushing the max ratings). The connections would be made with small set screws. Again, you'll have to cage 'em.
I will be doing an 832A PP and the best suggestion I found is using the female pins of a computer hard disk power connector and crimping it a bit to fit the "horns". Then using shrink tubes to insulate it, a couple of layers should be enough.
Angela Instruments sell new anode top caps drill out the orignal cap hole to suit a new anode cap and cut the pin to suit the new hight.
Nice thoughts guys...
I've searched the net and found only pictures of "normal" ceramic caps on the 832A but no part numbers or sizes. I was thinking I could purchase ceramic caps then solder in hard disk female pins into the caps which would make it look pretty and all. and trim down the 832 pins to fit.
Here's some pics I found on the net
I've searched the net and found only pictures of "normal" ceramic caps on the 832A but no part numbers or sizes. I was thinking I could purchase ceramic caps then solder in hard disk female pins into the caps which would make it look pretty and all. and trim down the 832 pins to fit.
Here's some pics I found on the net
The Rusian Priboi-tube 6R3S have the same "korns" and I have bought conbnectors for that one in Russia. Hower the 6R3S horns are a bit shorter that those on 829 and 832.
What I would do if it were me in need would be shape some yellow brass rod stock to the same ID as an 805 anode connector with a hole coaxially down the center just the right clearance to fit the 829832 pin into. A hex head miniature setscrew buried in the side would assure contact and integrity. Then use a standard ceramic plate connector. You could also go with the smaller 807 size plate connector set but there won`t be enough room to insert a set screw into the side of the brass slug unless the coaxial hole is way offset from center.
What about to use a car spark plugs connector and two component epoxi to buil a cap around the spark plug....
JORGETronic said:
I have never seen anyone make a P-P audio output stage using spark plugs. Sounds like quite a challenge. Being into Tesla coils I know that spark gaps can be used as negative resistance devices and thus provide power gain in devices such as power oscillators. My hat is off to anyone who succeeds in making a listenable audio amplifier using this technology.
I do not see how employing the unscrewable aluminum cap from a spark plug would work out very well. This is a high heat location and I would want nothing but metal on metal, not allegedly conductive glue in the audio signal path. Many automotive spark plug cable ends are really hard to press and remove from the strong spark plug. The tube probably would get broken under similar forces IMO.
unfortunatelly I have no pictures of it, but works.......
<I will try to explain better, the idea is to use the spak plug cable the thin ones with no noise filter, the cheapes ones, the copper can be pressed to the need diameter, then with epoxi you can build up the "ceramic" cap
<I will try to explain better, the idea is to use the spak plug cable the thin ones with no noise filter, the cheapes ones, the copper can be pressed to the need diameter, then with epoxi you can build up the "ceramic" cap
I guess that my English skils are more challenging than to use spak plugs, just to let me understand----
I started out a simple experiment winding a Cu-wire around the horns and tried "tightening up" with heatshrink tubing. This will work but it is very much of a more constant solution.
You could use brass bar stock like you said before with a set screw fastening it to the anode.
but make the bar twice the lenth you need and drill and tap a hole in the top connect a wire to it and heat shrink.
Nick
but make the bar twice the lenth you need and drill and tap a hole in the top connect a wire to it and heat shrink.
Nick
I'll be making the Martian amp http://www.platenspeler.com/diy/headphone/uk_martian_1.php
The designer is testing out with a SRPP stage. Hopefully things fall out good
The designer is testing out with a SRPP stage. Hopefully things fall out good
alexg said:
Dear alexg,
At begin, i'm intend using schematic from website http://www.pmillett.com/829b_amplifier.htm
But now I have an idea to design PP amplifier with 829B tube. Every body here please suggest me some schematics for 829B PP amplifier with only one 829B tube per channel.
Thank you in adv.
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